PlungerModerno

A great snapshot of what made Yes a legend. Fragile was the first Yes album I listened to over and over - only a few years ago as it happens. If not their very best line up to everyone, one of their best - their music is wonderful, enduring, and fresh even today.

[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1412680819' post='2570946'] Low action needs a neck with the correct amount of relief and that's certainly not a straight neck. IMHO there's no advantage in having more or less relief than is recommended by the manufacturer for the neck in question. This obviously assumes that the frets have been installed and levelled to a decent standard in the first place of course. [/quote] If you want little or no buzz I'd agree fully - but to get a harsh sound with lots of clank without having to really dig in with each note - a straight neck can be ideal. To still be able to get a cleaner sound some relief would probably help. AFAIK some manufacturers recommend little or no relief (see the Rickenbacker owners manual, which I won't link to here because of reasons.) The recommended settings work perfectly for the vast majority of players, with only the odd exception - In my experience anyway. They definitely make a good starting point.

Interesting contributions . . . I'm pretty sure both HowieBass and DiMarco have points - depending on the situation. My understanding is low action needs a straight neck or slight relief. IME Medium (in my book 3 mm ??) to high action(5 mm +) will work with anything that isn't backbow - although too much relief and very high action make playing a nightmare. Uneven frets can be hard to diagnose - often the lower frets get worn / dented first, and a sloppy fret job might not take the same amount off all the frets - leading to issues. I've heard the neck joints on some basses (e.g. set neck on a hollowbody) can change as it ages - meaning frets can come loose or move enough to make a nice setup impossible. I've used a homemade version of this to examine frets and it seems to work:

How low are we talking here - e.g. 2mm @ 12th fret (or lower) and you get buzz? If it's low already I'd say play it like it is. If it's about 3 mm or more I'd be unable to play that comfortably with almost any string - have you tried heavier gauge strings or tuning up a few semi-tones? I'm currently working on a bolt on guitar with a similar issue. Didn't have strings tuned up and was left with truss rod tension. I'm leaving it over tuned with the truss rod loose - seems to be having some effect. Exercise caution if it's a pricey one!

Cool neck - one for the ages. It'll last until it converts itself to fretless!

[quote name='tauzero' timestamp='1412636200' post='2570727'] My basses are all neck-through. Somehow they all manage to work properly without shimming and shaving. [/quote] Good for you! I guess I like having the option of neck angle adjustability - perhaps making me overlook some great non bolt-on basses...

[quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1412531699' post='2569671'] Good evening, Bobo... No experience with this, but having looked at the photos, I'd suggest that it's symmetrical, and could therefore be used either way. It may be helpful to ask the question of Thomann, though..?I've had occasion, in the past, to address them, and they've always replied rapidly with the informations requested. Worth an email..? Hope this helps. [/quote] Aye, Thomann are pretty good with the support, I'd expect they'll be happy to address your questions. It's not a cheap strap so you are right to do some research.

Great performer, a real legend! Thanks for the link. Looking forward to all those new recordings....

All's well with the world! Good to see a bass saved from becoming a parts donor or an ornament! Enjoy! Be patient with the seller - sometimes life gets in the way.

[quote name='Romeo2' timestamp='1411999168' post='2564687'] small/medium ish size, gotchya pretty sure people at my local Maplins will know [i]exactly[/i] what I need (sorry guys, I know it's all obvious when you have a couple of screwdrivers and you just use one that fits best - but alas, I have none at the moment!) [/quote] Well it's more about matching it +/- 1 or 2 mm as opposed to an exact match e.g. like a hex nut. see below pic: As long as it's not far too big (or small) such that It won't have a firm grip on the screw head, and that it will fit into the recess where the screw is located. Quick tip with the G&L adjustable saddle system - make sure the locking set screw is loose if adjusting for intonation, and make sure the saddle has room to adjust when doing so. They are [s]captive screws[/s] closed at one end so observe carefully. I would recommend loosening the string you're working on and seeing if the saddle moves when the screw is turned. Best to not have it snap in to place when tuning up.

Cool idea, but I'm not sure if effects by hands is the way to go on a instrument like a bass. Two free feet allow more convenient interaction - if a little less precise. I can't see it replacing stomp boxes in the near future. Could be perfect for some acts though.

[quote name='BetaFunk' timestamp='1411981746' post='2564442'] The song is indeed awesome. It's just a pity that the film was so poor. I'd rather remember those smokey and sweaty London pubs and clubs where i saw Ian Dury many times and where he was at his best. [/quote] It's sad the movie has fans left wanting - but from the interviews and bits I've seen of Ian Dury he was such a unique character and artist it seems a lot to ask to recreate or simulate some of that magic. I don't think I'd want to watch a movie about him, at least not now. I'll just go on enjoying his music and performances, as well as reflecting on his often genius lyrics. What a "clever bastard".

I'd try to be up front. If you're willing to just do it as recorded, fair enough... But I'd imagine a little energy and expansion in the groove direction will be much appreciated - as long as it's not obnoxious or out of place for the track. I'd be surprised if you don't get feedback from the first few song play throughs. If the music asks for it - give it in spades! Best of luck with the rehearsal!

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1411575879' post='2560853'] NEW!! Let people know you have Erectile Dysfunction with the Fernandes Travel Bass!! Why stop there? How about an appropriately-coloured 'incontinence' bass to show that your strides are always full of dog's eggs? Or a scabby textured refin to show you share the wonderful joy of herpes? Or a bass apparently covered in spew so there's no doubt you're a hopeless, untreatable alcoholic?? The groupies will be throwing themselves at you!! The possibilities are quite literally endless!! [/quote] Thanks, My tea ended up in my nostrils!

It's worth what someone is willing to pay for it... But it's too rich for my blood. Even with the cool tale and the great pics.

[quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1411923186' post='2563933'] Gibson [i]have[/i] made some pretty basses IMO. The Thunderbirds pictured earlier are a prime example, as is the Les Paul Signature bass which was the basis of the Epi Jack Casady; [/quote] That's gorgeous - like the hofner club bass: It tempts me to look at the non bolt on basses!

[quote name='neepheid' timestamp='1411866970' post='2563440'] Why would a neck joint need shimming/shaving if it's made properly in the first place? [/quote] It wouldn't need adjustment - but I prefer having that adjustability. I also like being able to remove the neck easily to work on frets when the time comes for a polish/level, as well as just preferring a glueless joint. I have nothing against those who prefer neck through or set neck construction basses - e.g. a single cut like this: Or a Thunderbird from gibson: But I'm definitely leaning towards the bolt on end of things - especially for wood instruments. The Status streamline is an example of a bass that has excellent reason for it's construction - graphite is stable and the instrument is trying to be as ergonomic as possible.

Well the song is awesome! [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7j-aTLQNV0"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7j-aTLQNV0[/url]

OK so I have, for shame , had a unmarked NBD. I basically got a working fixer upper and have been tweaking - so had no real decent sounds & pics to share. It's a 1999 Ibanez Ergodyne EDC 705, the one with a plastic body: [attachment=172743:P1000456_small.JPG] [attachment=172744:P1000458_small.JPG] It's pretty cool, sounds awesome and can play OK. Everything works but it was a little neglected, maladjusted - like 50% of the instruments out there. The truss rod works (YAY!) but between myself and the previous owner(s) the hex nut was worn (especially the outer part which I may have turned from slightly worn to ringed Yes I should have checked the seating more carefully before turning like an idiot!!!). I was figuring the nut could use a replacement before it got worn completely (and much harder to remove & replace). While assessing the wear I shone a light and saw something weird - what appeared to be a chunk of metal missing.... I took the nut off completely for inspection. what do you think? [attachment=172745:P1000476_cropped.JPG] [attachment=172746:P1000480_cropped.JPG] OK.... Anyone know what happened there? Looks like I need a new truss rod nut. Am I correct in assuming Ibanez are not really available for support? If I can source a replacement with the correct thread locally that'll be ideal. I'll have to do some calling around! Then with a little fretwork and a setup this girl should be back in action!!!! P.S. Is there much variety in truss rod nuts? this appears to be the regular 4mm `import' fenderish style. I assume it's just like any other nut, if I match the threading rate and radius it should work...

[quote name='jonnythenotes' timestamp='1411932180' post='2564085'] Bang on Plunger....I have got an old 96 limited edition Trace Elliot T bass where the headstock is wood...Still looks good even amongst todays hi-tech boutique gear. Also, you just got to love the Yamaha stringing system...functional and tres cool. The links you put on are also slobber inducing...Good luck with the 'if and when' build...... Thanks for your comments... [/quote] Happy to take a stab at the thread. I guess after linking to the Guy Pratt custom Star Bass from Warwick I should include "The Rail": [url="http://westone.info/railbass.html"]http://westone.info/railbass.html[/url] and the G1 from Gibson: Which are in a similar vein. Also the earliest one I can find with the sliding pickup feature, which Mr. Pratt refers to as inspiring the Star Bass project is the Dan Armstrong 'London' Bass: [url="http://www.danarmstrong.org/londonbass.html"]http://www.danarmstrong.org/londonbass.html[/url]

By the Trace Elliot T Bass I assume you mean this gem: and on the Yamaha you mean: Both are neat designs, Check out this piece - drool worthy in my book: [url="http://www.notreble.com/buzz/2014/09/15/bass-of-the-week-black-beard-guitars-fahrenheit-451-ii/"]http://www.notreble.com/buzz/2014/09/15/bass-of-the-week-black-beard-guitars-fahrenheit-451-ii/[/url] This one is the inspiration for a build I'm currently designing... Might even make it! [url="http://www.warwickbass.com/en/Warwick---Custom-Shop--Gallery--Starbass-SC--Star-Bass-SC----851--4-string--Pictures.html"]http://www.warwickbass.com/en/Warwick---Custom-Shop--Gallery--Starbass-SC--Star-Bass-SC----851--4-string--Pictures.html[/url] [url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MS02YaLw1uM"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MS02YaLw1uM[/url]

I'm just not happy with the set neck joint on 80% of their models... I'd be happy to pay for gibson electronics, but I think I'd put them in someone elses body, namely one with an upper horn to remove neckdive, and a bolt on neck to allow shimming / shaving to get it all working prefectly.

3D printing is, as HowieBass said: "a solution looking for a problem" in this case. It's looking for interesting and profitable applications. It has yet to find a major application like CNC and other manufacturing techniques. I may be wrong of course, but nobody has told me of an industry 3D printing thousands or millions of items - I guess it's mainly an issue of cost.

[quote name='6feet7' timestamp='1403170578' post='2480377'] I saw something on the internet the other day (sorry can't find it now) where a Telecaster was chambered out from the back (leaving the centre block for strength and pickups etc) and then had just the routing covered over.The guy did it with plastic, like a pick guard - he'd cut a small lip on the edge of the routing so that the guard was flush with the body, but if you did this with wood instead of plastic you could then paint over it and no one would be any the wiser and it would be a lot easier than cutting the guitar in half. He also put an f hole in it to make it a thinline. [/quote] Sounds cool and cost effective. Unless you have a particular upgrade in mind (e.g. using flame maple on the front) breaking the finish all around the edge and redoing the pickup, bridge and control mountings (depending on route locations) is a fair amount of work. I'd go in from the rear in this case... that sounds a little smutty when said aloud.