PlungerModerno

OK - had a gander. Can't find a schematic or detailed description of the stacked knob

Did find some pics though!

[quote name='Greggo' timestamp='1385332929' post='2287161']
To be honest I think I'd rather just have one bass rather than waffling about with two, problem is I've got a 4 and a 5. If I play the 4 I miss the low B but then when I play 5 long enough I think I don't use the low B enough to justify a 5!

I probably just need to get used to yamaha again. I am planning on going down the flatwound route so thinking a set of 40 - 100 status hotwire on the yamaha.
[/quote]

I can relate to that. I'm migrating to five ATM. Just got my L-2500 Tribute playing the way I like. Jumping from 4-5 is pretty awkward.

As long as you don't damage the truss rod everything should work out OK. Check for relief and then set action height.

When I set up basses I still sometimes get confused as to what exactly to tweak first - Best to do small changes and plenty of checks. Dual truss-rod necks are not something I've dealt with. I can only recommend careful sighting of the neck to avoid warping.

From what you've described I'd agree with geoffbyrne - you've got all the signs of a backbow. Loosen the truss rods until the neck is straight or slightly bowed. You can easily check this by holding the bass on a knee, fretting the 1st fret with your fretting hand, then fretting the 17th fret with your middle finger on your plucking hand and tapping the string with your playing thumb (below the 17th fret of course). It should have a little travel. If it's flat to the deck you're dead flat or have a backbow.

Like geoffbyrne said - you need to adjust the action - Lower the bridge saddles/bridge. I haven't the foggiest how a rick bridge works however.

A dead string? Get a new set - IME lighter gauges usually need[b][s]s[/s][/b] higher action & more relief for a given playing style and tuning. Lighten up the attack and you can get as low as you like - just as long as you don't have uneven frets!

[quote name='JapanAxe' timestamp='1385320367' post='2286897']
I don't even know if there [i]are[/i] springs under the pickup. It's more likely a loose base plate. I'm going to fix it after I've tidied my sock drawer.
[/quote]

Sounds like fun. If it does have springs Keep the foam rubber in mind

[quote name='JapanAxe' timestamp='1385319662' post='2286875']
My USA G&L has a pickup that would be microphonic if I hadn't screwed it right down into the cavity. One day I will get round to fixing it properly. With glue like.
[/quote]

Try a little foam in the springs - can't hurt!

[quote name='JapanAxe' timestamp='1385319129' post='2286860']
No, that annoying noise is called 'slapping'.
[/quote]



Ed Freidland is a slap fan alright.

Hullo, Hark, and behold,

For I have a tale of great wonder to tell!

Anyway - here's a clip detailing the problem I was having with my L-2500 tribute:

[url="https://soundcloud.com/plungermoderno/tribby-debug-ringing"]https://soundcloud.c...y-debug-ringing[/url]

The recording has 3 parts. Firstly I'm tapping on the body and controls of the bass to cause the noise, Then i'm flipping the basses mini-switches back and forth repeatedly. The last part is me playing very badly (slap then fingerstyle).

It's an annoying ringing that I suspected to be a microphonic pickup. When investigating the problem I found it probably had a physical cause as I could very faintly hear the 'ting' sound when using the micro-switches unplugged.

Upon examining the pickups for loose components I became suspicious of the springs underneath the pickups.
Using the logic that a strat's tremolo springs can be heard when they resonate through the amp I sought to mute any spring noise. I put a sliver of foam rubber in each spring with decent results.





The results have been very satisfactory. Here's my attempt at recreating the above recording conditions - it's a lot less 'tingy'!

[url="https://soundcloud.com/plungermoderno/springs-damped-audio"]https://soundcloud.c...gs-damped-audio[/url]


Anyway I think this may be quite widespread - I found these demos having the same annoying noise:

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WT4AP58jC5o[/media]
@ 1:30 - 1:35

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h9dQZcW6LLk[/media]
@ 1:10 - 1:25

This is why I felt it was worth making this post - sharing a positive experience. Hope this can help. I'll probably make a post on guitarsbyleo.com as well.

EDIT: The playing in both clips are generally with the preamp on, treble boost setting. With this tweak it's now a usable setting.

[quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1384970331' post='2282970']
pickups sound different depending how high/low they are - do it by ear.
[/quote]

THIS

With all pickups - be they adjusted in height, angle, angle in 3D (like a 3 screw MM style pickup) or angle in a few ways (like split P pickups) - or pickups with pole piece adjustments (like G&L MFD's) What sounds best is best - as long as it works. It's no good sounding great on EADG if the B string hits the pole pieces!

I know if the strings get very close to magnetic pickups it can cause tonal problems as well as excessive drag on the strings.

[quote name='Roland Rock' timestamp='1384624097' post='2278905']
This may seem like a silly question, but I don't suppose, by any chance, that the bass' body is made of cheese? That would explain it.
[/quote]



+1 on looking at the bass - either quirks with wood, screws or other construction could be to blame.

Correctly installed neck screws shouldn't work loose by themselves - definately not those using threaded inserts.

[quote name='Conan' timestamp='1384764305' post='2280297']
That's my understanding too, although I'm fairly sure that there were some other alterations/updates made "on the hoof" as it were - particularly between G1 and G2.

I also think that one speakon input is "standard" but an extra one can be added as an option.
[/quote]

I recieved a two speakon G2 with cloth without requesting it . . .
I'd imagine it's easier to cut all the cab panels the same - So for each build run they're probably consistant.

Even though the G2 speakon and screws aren't flush - they only protrude a little and are as solid as the rest of the rugged cab.

I think I have a generation 2 Compact.

I know it was C25/V

I think the internal bracing was different between gen 1 and 2. Not sure about gen 3.

Pretty sure they'll all do pretty good

Beautiful, clean and sleek. What lovely basses!

Hello there.

I've got something exciting on my hands - a metallic black fender P Lyte, MIJ.

Sweet condition, I've almost got it how I like it... Pics to follow. Here's a teaser:

[attachment=131103:P1000122.JPG]

I've put 40-100 Nickel XL's from D'Addario on her and she's sweet.

Hello bass chat folks,

I've been away for a while - and I'm glad to see the place (and the password recovery services) are still great.

I've been distracted and stuff over the last couple of months - went from practicing every day to every other day - a week or two went by with only a few minutes of noodling.

But I'm getting back into the swing... Got myself an ergonomic, light bass which I will be taking pics of - and demoing hopefully soon (tomorrow?).

I'm just glad to be back...

AFAIK the PF500 has a switch on the back for US and EU voltages . . .

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1355221275' post='1895442']
Even sir alex of claber rates my neoxT 2x12 cab quite highly
[/quote]

Well Sir Alex of Claber is probably right. . . as the neoxT 212 is a beast of a thing, with a very roughly similar design to a super 12T from his line IIRC.
That said either of those 212's won't compete in the lows with a cab designed with that in mind - like a big twin or 1212/6 fEARful type cab.
The more conventional cabs need less watts to get as loud as I understand it. . . but can't go as low & loud. I would call the neoxT 212 and other 'Super' designs a great compromise . . . not a 'mega' Hi-Fi cab but still with great performance and serious power handling . . . perfect for a lot of us. I have half of a super 15 - a compact - very nice.

If it's got great fretwork and plays really well . . . I'd keep it - provided I knew I'd got an acceptable deal for a near mint display model. Get them to forward you all of the case candy . . . or a nice refund. You may be able to get both.

[quote name='WarrenD' timestamp='1355314126' post='1896725']
Hello Ray,

I have done this a few times and it can affect the wrapping at machine head part if the distance from peg to nut is different. Tone isn't affected but you're likely to notice a kink from the previous bending point, either around the peg or in between the nut and the peg.

The main 'problem' for me has been, as a Swing Bass '66 user, it disturbs the silk winding, rendering it a bit unsightly as the string is fed through another bridge. This is only an aesthetic issue, and a minor one.

Cheers.
[/quote]

+1 on it ruining roto silks.

I managed two switches with a set of 66's nickels (45 - 105). On the third swap the D string IIRC snapped at the tuning peg. Daignosis: Two basses with different diameter tuning pegs . . . all that winding and unwinding through the bridges results in metal fatigue. I'm impressed they stood up to that and a few months playing. They is some well made strings!

The silk on the chromes seems to be a little hardier than the roto silks - but I haven't given them enough abuse to really compare.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1355195918' post='1895296']
Chances of the cab being able to use double watts is pretty slim too.
[/quote]

Especially if it's a non-mega design . . . i.e. a regular cab not a fEARful or Big Twin etc.
Thankfully for most moderately loud applications you can lose a fair amount of the lows and get by without blowing drivers . . . .

Anyone thinking like moi? get two 210's at 8 ohms for a modular, low stage footprint, nice height for stage monitoring, improved polar response, and easier to schelp rig . . .

Like this?





If you are looking for a single cab solution look into the lighter 212's or 215's or 410's . . . if they're heavy get castors!

I thought the typical gospel sound was just an active Hi-Fi bass tone? You should be able to get close with most active basses.

5th string or a drop D tuner is probably a good idea. What are you looking into? A full rig or a combo or something in between?
Depending on space, weight and sound needs you can do a lot with a decent budget. For best results try a few setups and get used to EQing with your ears.

I have a zoom B2.1u - like yours but with a pedal - and it's good for a few tones (eg. fuzz or OD) but the compressor on it kinda sucks. If you're planning a fair bit of slap I'd recommend trying to get the best out of your Boss LMB3. Here's what a compressor expert (if there is such a thing) suggests:
http://www.ovnilab.com/
http://www.ovnilab.com/reviews/bosslmb3.shtml

He recommended the Carl Martin Classic Opto ( http://www.thomann.de/ie/carl_martin_classic_opto_compressor.htm ) which turned awesome for me so I'd tend to take his hints pretty seriously.

As far as amps go, I've heard good and bad things about the behringers . . . you should check out new and used combo's and rigs around you're area. If you'll be playing with a drummer consider a fairly capable amp . . . take a look at Hartke, GK, Peavey, Ashdown and the like. Try a few with your bass if you can - Oh and remember 95% is down to practicing like crazy!

If you want to get this amp the attention it deserves . . . get a mod to move it to this section:

http://basschat.co.uk/forum/20-amps-and-cabs-for-sale/

Also include "For sale / trade" in the title - that way you will get people interested in trades looking in.

Keep in mind the 410's probably have more lows for the same input than the 115 - but that depends on the driver & cab specifics.

As Spike said, two 8 ohm cabs should draw the same power from the head (as long as the head can handle a load down to 4 ohms).
The only danger I can foresee is if you send too much lows at too high a volume and damage the speaker (Xmax exceeded) or you fry the driver by exceeding the thermal limits (the wattage ratings you get on the cabs) - both of these are pretty unlikely unless you really push the cabs very very hard.

If you listen out for signs of farting you should be fine. Of course the drivers may be faulty and fail under far less stress . . . but that's not very likely either.