Si600

Weiß du was, ich habe seit 2019 in Deutschland gewohnt, und mein Deutsch ist immer noch ein voll Katastrophe 😉

Could just print one?

@SpondonBassed I've just been back downstairs to look at it. It's definitely real CF on the faces, you can see the weave change as you tip it in the light. You can also see the layers in the cut edge so I think it's CF throughout. There's no sign of fraying though. It cost something like 20€ for a 3mm plate the size of A4. So even if it's just collar and cuffs that's not too much of a rip off.

It wasn't the most expensive CF, I wouldn't be surprised if there was just a facing sheet on both sides and the rest was resin. Certainly there's been no evidence of fraying. It doesn't matter, it's not structural and looks cool which was the point 😁 It's filthy stuff to work though, seeing as it's just plastic and charcoal. Black dust everywhere 🙄

It haz control cavity cover.

That's what I ended up using the spanner for. I didn't think of just drilling a hole in a support block. 🤦‍♂️

I've done them now... one video I saw the guy had just such a thing, like a spot facing end mill, but with a bit that engaged with the screw driver slot rather than a cutter. Of course, I didn't think to try and get one....

How do you turn it then? The rod will either get in the way of the internal hex, or it's being driven in with a bolt as per Andy and Jez's suggestion.

They're very similar to these: https://www.schraubenking-shop.de/M4-x-8-x-AD8mm-Rampa-Muffe-Typ-A-Stahl-verzinkt-P003788 They all screw in so I'm not really bothered but they were neither easy nor clean to get in. I think the first hole was too small and I eventually settled on 7mm for an 8mm OD, 1mm or so thread engagement. Another update, the bridge is on, but it needs cleaning, the string rollers are all stuck and the controle cavity needs enlarging a smidge to fit the push-pull pot at one end.

Bridge and neck fitted Inserts are a barsteward to get in straight aren't they? I think two or three are actually perpendicular. I used a ring spanner eventually to hold them upright.

You madman! 🤩

Definitely weird... what have you plugged the holes with?

I did think of it, but wondered whether being so close to the neck may cause the strap to pop off? I can always try it. If it doesn't work plug and redrill. It's at the back, no-one is ever going to see it.

Although it doesn't have a top horn (Stop sniggering there at the back) there's no reason the button couldn't go in the normal place. It's my build after all 😉 Just been back to look at the photo, yup, the top curve is a long way back. Between the two for'ard neck bolts it is then. If you Google Thunderbird front strap buttons you get some very weird placements.

I'm baaaaack! Slowly at least. I have spent a quiet hour in the cellar fitting the ancillaries, jack plate, tuners, nut. Everything that can be done without making a noise as our little ones room is directly above the workshop. I've got to the strap buttons and the rear one is easy, it's the front one I'm cogitating over. I had planned to just use a neck bolt, but I need one 10mm longer, and they only come in packs of ten. They're not exactly expensive, but then what do I do with 9 m4x50 countersunk bolts? Build nine more basses I suppose.... So the other thought, as there's no neck plate I can just put it where I like, in between the holes like so: Thunks?

I can't remember if I've asked this before, so forgive me if I have, but can you tap test closed pickups? I've got some Delano Quad core ones and I want to know if I've wired them up how I want them.

Why did he want a single pickup so high up? It looks a bit odd to my eyes, but then, it's not my guitar, so tough!

Has anyone used a pre slotted nut like the Warwick Just a Nut? Not for that price but Allparts have a basic injection moulded version of it.

Photo-etch?

Oooo, I do like a Flying V.