Si600

Anything but tort and sunburst. All tort and sunburst basses must be repainted or have new scratch plates fitted.

Failed quote, please delete if possible

@rubis Do you know if that light grain fill finish could be done the other way? White/light stain with black grain fill? Just curious more than wanting to try it

Definitely, I could have bought three pillar drills for the price of this, and probably worn out all three before this one even starts to complain. The next thing I need to do is mill some T-blocks for the slideways on the base, just in case I need them more than anything else, and make up some bits of bar with a series of holes in to clamp things to the table. T-blocks will have to be made with Dad, holes in some mild steel I can do by myself now

Next is to get the tool tray back from the Revered Parent who has bored the middle out by 0.10mm (4 thou for the oldies 😛). I was expecting to do it, but he went ahead and did it, and fit it. Which means lifting the head off again. Hopefully for the last time, unless I move it! It needs a new handle for the quill spider but that's just running a die up the existing one that has broken off, before I got it and fortunately not in the hole. It was bought mostly because the ability to drill perpendicular holes in things on an ad hoc basis without going for a 20 minute drive down the A5 is very useful, and I want to build a flightcase. Parcelpost could be done, it weighs something in order of 150kg and all the couriers won't touch it without a pallet. Or you could drive for an hour to use it 😛

@only4 We had a further look last night. Very interesting if you find that sort of thing interesting! The casting with the hole in that you pointed out screws onto the end of the quill. If you take the depth-stop off you can remove it completely. What it reveals is the underside of the lower spindle ball race, fortunately semi caged otherwise we'd have been cleaning and regreasing the bearing after finding all the balls that had dropped out! The No1 Morse taper is part of the spindle, there's a collar on it that loads the internal face of the bearing but it's, as far as we could see, all one piece. Certainly it was going to get messy taking any more bits off. It's a shame, the extra 100mm would have been useful, but it's a solid machine with no runout even at full extension, so for £150 I'm happy with it.

I saw a coffee table top once that was full of voids. It had been filled with an electric blue resin that had then been sanded or planed back so you had the wood with electric blue speckles all over it. I liked it, but you may not want such a mad top to a bass.

I'm not even thinking about which Midlands Bushes you will be visiting.

I'm beginning to feel with pines like those you won't be allowed at next years Midlands Bash 😛

Love the profanity filter 😛

Unlikely to be Pie*s M*rg*n-us. Apologies in advance to the gentleman in question. But then I never understood why Menzies Campbell is pronounced Ming.

We had the chuck off this evening, it's a No.1 Morse taper. At the top of the visible spindle, just above the slot for the taper drift is an hex head grub screw. Dad forgot his imperial Allen keys, and I don't have any. We surmised as much as your drawing, that the extension screws on to the end of the spindle, but equally it may be on the Jacobs taper and the grub screw is there to retain it. Presumably, if it does come off then it's still possible to buy a chuck that fits it.

Any chance you could detail where this ring is and how you get it off? Not that I need to, just curious. The current Jacobs chuck is fine, I can;t see myself needing to use a twist drill bigger than 13mm, and if I do then a new chuck or a taper shank drill won't be too hard to get hold of.

I've been told that the extension is a longer spindle, not a removable lump unfortunately.

Yes I do, I'll pop round the revered elders at some point and make one. That will only get the chuck out of the spindle. The literature I have read on t'internet about these suggests that the spindle has a MT2 taper, which then has an extension with a Jacobs taper to take a Jacobs chuck in it. You can see the hole to get the chuck out, but the part with the hole is also supposed to come out.

Stunning work.

Nor even a diary. I picked up this wee beastie from the Bay of Fleas. It's older than I am, very well made and very very heavy. It needs a new drive belt and I'm not sure how to get the extension out of the spindle yet.

You're carving an ugly volute, or you're starting carving from an ugly volute? 🙈

Pretty much the only board I read...

Headstock not ironed yet. Patience 😛

Well that was interesting! I used it last night at our rehearsal session with a very quick setup, all the settings at 12 o'clock, both channel "gain" at half one-ish and the master "volume" very low so no-one died of internal bleeding and it sounded excellent. I may tweak the settings a smidgen over the coming weeks but it's a good basis for something that I like the sound of.

No I don't. I'm using the A channel as clean and the B as overdrive so the gain settings are just under distorting on the A and almost to the stop on the B. Volume controls are set so that there is no detectable difference in level when I switch between them. What I do notice is that the B is bassier than the A. I think I'm going to set it all back to the manual recommendations and start again, maybe with more crunch on my clean channel and make the B a bit more overdriven and sightly louder for solo infill. I'm going to go back and reread the Confusing Menage a Troi thread, see if that helps.

So I need to juggle the EQ controls to get a more consistent sound between the channels if I don't want such a big difference between them?

First time out on our own! Hopefully all you'll be able to see is the videos, not the rest of my Google drive! https://drive.google.com/open?id=1E8uu9LkmI3CYiNGlaRp5VVCZm7_lntV- https://drive.google.com/open?id=1b9q742NMphZ7d936nPSU6d8Qa_YT-tYj