blablas

Before: [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/Vs9tVWT.jpg[/IMG] After: [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/U8nZ4vZ.jpg[/IMG] The binding all the way along the access cover is just what finishes it off.

Decided to give the final straight edge of the access cover a binding as well. Glued a reinforcement rib on the inside of the top, also drilled the small holes in the top (and back) for the toothpicks to align the top when gluing.

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/ZXAkuNf.jpg[/IMG] All the bracing and blocks are glued to the back. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/Vs9tVWT.jpg[/IMG] Finished the access cover transition to the body and mounted it. Next step, sanding flat the back, roughing up the front side and gluing on the top.

Glued the other side to the back and glued the block on which the bridge will be mounted.

For glue, Titebond. Rustin Danish oil.

Glued the back halves together.

Glued the back to the side on the first body half.

Sanded flat the top. And how the grain will pop when it gets oiled later on.

The knobs after a Danish oil treatment.

[b]Making wooden knobs the blablas way:[/b] (This small build diary was done before in Dutch as part of the diary about my previous build) [b][i]The rough work[/i][/b] A piece of wood (A leftover piece from the body in this case) A set of hole saws (| needed two sizes) I clamp this piece of wood on top of the table of my milling machine (at work) and saw out the holes (not all the way through). Sawing of the knobs of the bottom with a bandsaw gives this and this Now I can saw of the knobs to the proper and identical length. And we've got some rough cut knobs. [b][i]Finishing the knobs on the lathe[/i][/b] Drilling a hole with a diameter of 4.2 millimeters and a depth of 15 millimeters: Tapping a M5 thread and just flattening the bottom end: Clamping up my special tool: Screwing the knob on my special tool and after that machining the outside: Putting on a radius at the edge and after that sanding the knob up to a grain of 600: The side of the knobs that's in sight is done: Drilling a hole with the proper diameter for the pot shaft: Machining out a chamber for the nut of the pot: Drilling a hole with a diameter of 2.4 millimeters in the side: Tapping a M3 tread in this hole: Put some M3 screws in these holes and were done: What still needs to be done is putting on six layers of Danish oil. [b][i]And a last minute correction that needed to be done when I was assembling the bass[/i][/b] It was a nice idea to make a M3 thread in these knobs, but alder is not strong enough for this thread and it came out when tightening the screws. The solution: Drilling out a bigger hole and gluing in a brass insert with the correct inner diameter, drilling trough the M3 hole and tapping the tread in the brass insert. And were done!!

The knobs are finished. Zebra wood, 3 ply birch and a walnut top. I always hate making these things at the end of the build, that's why I try do them as soon as possible.

Connected the holes, or in other words sawed out the inside of the body, also defined the back cover and sawed this as well. Sanded smooth the sides that will be visible trough the sound holes. Top roughly sawed into shape.

Decided what to ditch. Next step, connect the holes.

Finally found some time and energy to do something again. Straightened the edge of the body halves and sawed of a thin plate that will become the back, now I need to determine what I need from the center block and saw what I don't need of as well.

It has the brightness and detail of a fretted bass but with the possibilities of a fretless, a wooden fretless fingerboard sounds more dampened and a bit warmer. Do a video search for LeFay Remington Steele for the sound, some of those gave me idea for this build.

A week ago I finally decided to make a shim, I just could not get the string low enough to my liking. I took a white plastic plate with a thickness of two millimeters and cut it exactly in the shape of the neck-pocket, now the strings can go as low as I want them. And this is how the fingerboard looks after two months of almost daily playing for a least an hour. The scratches you see are not real scratches, but where the string touches the fingerboard the stainless steel becomes extra shiny, you can see them but can not feel them. It's a successful project, the bass almost plays itself and the the sound is exactly as I expected. Now I need to leave it in the rack more and continue with the next build.

It has the brightness of a fretted bass, but with the possibilities of a fretless.

[quote name='captainhaddock' timestamp='1373570382' post='2139216'] I must say what a lovely collection of basses you have produced,[/quote] Thanks. [quote]Do you make your own wooden control knobs?? [/quote] Yes, it's easy to do (if you've got the right tools), it only takes some time, not that much brainpower required. Maybe I'll do a special on knob making the blablas way later on during this build (I've already done it in Dutch, all I have to do is translate it).

4 Millimeter for the truss rod, 1.5 millimeter for the saddles. The ball end ones for the truss rod are risky, if you (need to) use too much force you might damage the allen socket, this is because of the smaller contact area between the socket and the key.

Someone on TalkBass called it an angry Chewbacca.

Rough cut the body. Most of it will be gone again by the time it is finished!

I've made the first saw dust for this bass. the top is resawed. The one on the left is the one I'm going for.

All the parts are in for my next DIY build. This will be number 10, here are the previous builds: The plan: (The neck pickup will move 10 millimeter closer tot the neck than you see in this picture) A fretted six string hollow body, 35 inch scale. The global idea: - 2 Delano dual coils with series-single-paralel switch - Glockenklang 2 band preamp - Black tuners, single string bridge parts and strings - Flamed walnut top and matching headstock topping - Wenge fingerboard - 24 Frets - 17,5 Millimeter string spacing at the bridge, 10 millimeter at the nut - 2 Dual action truss rods - Set-in neck, probably maple/wenge (not sure yet, also depends on the wood I've got at the moment) The wood for the top. All the hardware parts.

I'm doing one in [url="http://www.basgitaarforum.nl/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=42147"]Dutch[/url] anyway, so the only thing extra I have to do for BC is translate it.

All the parts are in for my next DIY build, does anybody want me to start a build diary here on BC? This is the plan: A fretted six string hollow body, 35 inch scale. The wood for the top. All the hardware parts.