Alien

[quote name='Captain Rumble' post='804412' date='Apr 12 2010, 11:38 PM'][url="http://www.philjonespuresound.com/products/?id=6"]http://www.philjonespuresound.com/products/?id=6[/url][/quote]

The idea was for a lightweight head - these things weigh more than some small countries.


[quote name='warwickhunt' post='804563' date='Apr 13 2010, 08:54 AM']This is what you need from an EQ/preamp

[/quote]

Ooh nice. What's that from?

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Could be interested in the amp, but cash is a bit tight right now, so if you get a firm offer don't hold back on my account.

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Just sold a cab to Toni. All went well, no messing about.

Andy

PM'd

[quote name='funkle' post='801406' date='Apr 9 2010, 11:52 PM']You couldn't drop him a line for me, could you? Feels a bit OTT to me to PM him and say 'buy mine'![/quote]

Wouldn't have been a problem bud. Bad timing unfortunately as cash is a bit tight right now. Unless you'd consider a PX deal on a TNT160?

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As per the rules of the marketplace, you'll need to post a price for this.

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[quote name='umph' post='799171' date='Apr 7 2010, 08:19 PM']intrested could you get a quote for how much it'd cost to post?[/quote]

You're currently third in the queue, but I wouldn't hold my breath if I were you.

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This is a 100 Watt Carlsbro 1x15 cab rated at 8 Ohms. Don't be fooled by the low power rating - I've been running this with a Crate Powerblock and it gets loud.

It's pretty old (my guess is mid '80s), but in good condition for its age. A few nicks in the tolex and some scuffs on the corners is about as bad as it gets. The grille looks like some sort of heavy fishnet stretched on a wooden frame. The driver is a cast-frame H&H.

Dimensions are approx. 640x480x350mm, weight is approx. 22kg.

I've put new gasketing under the speaker (the old stuff was shot), and stapled some foam round the inside of the cab, which really improved the sound.

Here's a couple of photos:

[attachment=46608:PICT0952.JPG] [attachment=46609:PICT0955.JPG]

This would make a great extension cab for anyone running a lower-powered (under 200 watts) combo, or just a cheap knockabout cab to use with a low powered amp.

I'm after £30 collected for this - could post I guess, but it'd probably double your costs. SOLD

Cheers

Andy

How about [url="http://www.smartsounddirect.com/galaxy-hotspot-hsrg-200w-97-p.asp"]hotspot monitors[/url] or the version with [url="http://www.smartsounddirect.com/galaxy-hotspot-hsvc-with-volume-control-200w-98-p.asp"]volume control[/url]. Not cheap, but they do have quite a good rep.

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[quote name='thebassman' post='793285' date='Apr 1 2010, 01:32 PM']How about the valve state amps or trans class as they call them, like Ampeg svt3 pro, mesa boogie walkabout/ carbine etc??[/quote]

Most of these only have valves in the preamp, which more or less by definition runs as class A. When amp manufacturers call their amps class A, class D etc. they're referring to the power amp stage.

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[quote name='umph' post='793091' date='Apr 1 2010, 11:13 AM']svt is ab2 [/quote]

This is a distinction that only affects valve amps.

Class ab1 amps are biased so as not to allow grid current to flow. Class ab2 amps allow the flow of grid current. This current allows the anode voltage to fall close to zero, which improves the efficiency (and therefore the available power) of the amp somewhat. However, this increase comes at a price - class ab2 amps have a less linear response than class ab1. Swings and roundabouts, innit?

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[quote name='Beedster' post='792749' date='Mar 31 2010, 11:50 PM']At last, a reply I understand! Could you give examples of each class?

Cheers

C[/quote]


OK, here goes...

Class A - Can't think of many bass amps that run in class A, other than small amps with one-transistor power stages, such as the Peavey Microbass. Valve wise, it tends to be restricted to small guitar amps (under 10 watts or so). Think Fender Champ, Vox AC4, Epiphone Valve Jr.

Class B - Not commonly used for instrument amps because they need to be perfectly set up to minimise crossover distortion. Can't think of any off the top of my head.

Class AB - Here's the richest vein of amps. Most bass amps fall into this class. Hartke, Peavey, Trace Elliot, G-K etc. Class AB valve amps include the Ampeg SVT, Trace V8 and the Mesa Boogie 400+.

Class D - Most of the new breed of super lightweight amps are class D. Markbass, Ashdown Superfly, Genz Benz Shuttle and the like.

Class H - The only class H bass amp I can think of is the Marshall 7200/7400 Dynamic Bass range.

Hope this helps

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[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='792446' date='Mar 31 2010, 08:48 PM']Just picked up a power block for cheap on ebay, planning on passing on to a guitarist. Since its 75w a side stereo, I just plugged my Sansamp into the fx return and plugged it into the rig of Doom (Aguilar GS412 and a ABM 8x10). Does fine, not much really low, but fine, portable solution, except for the cabs. Handy back packable rig for bus jammers.[/quote]

Brilliant little things aren't they?

According to the signal schematic, the FX returns on these have speaker simulation on them (ie treble & bass roll off).
I mostly use mine to drive foldback so I plug into the CD input instead, which doesn't do this.

Give it a go - it only needs a jack to phono lead.

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To summarise:

Class A - Hugely inefficient, run hot, normally weigh a ton, but can sound fantastic even when overdriven.

Class B - More efficient than class A, but still not great, run hot-ish, still fairly heavy, prone to crossover distortion.

Class AB - Falls between class A and class B. Less crossover distortion than class B, but still heavy and run hot.

Class C - Doesn't work for audio, so ignore it.

Class D - AKA digital/switch mode/switching amps. Very efficient, run cool, light, some can run out of puff if driven hard for long periods.

Class H - Uses multiple power supplies to only supply what's needed. Heavier than class D, but don't usually suffer the same power fade issues. Not all that common.

That good enough?

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Sarah, have you tried using the amp with an extension cab plugged in? I used to have the RBW200 (120W, 1x12) and it really came alive with a second 1x12 cab.

Yours is only pushing about 100 Watts into the internal speaker, plugging in a second cab will release the other 65 and, more importantly, increase your cone area.

I recently picked up an old Carlsbro 100W 1x15 cab for a tenner on ebay - something like that would work fine with your Laney.

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Edit: Too late - I see it's up for sale already.

[quote name='Sibob' post='790133' date='Mar 29 2010, 11:51 PM']Hope for us all.....even Pino does wedding gigs!

Si[/quote]

Alternatively, if Pino's doing weddings now, what chance does that give us mere mortals?

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[quote name='steviedee' post='783487' date='Mar 23 2010, 02:35 PM']I looked at those spider cases they look cool and very cheap[/quote]

That's what I use. They're fine for the sort of gigging I do, but they're not the toughest things in the world.
Closed, mine's solid as you like, but it goes a bit floppy when you take the lid off. Having said that, it goes on the floor at that point so it doesn't really matter does it?

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Recorded by a mate of mine at a Sunday lunchtime gig a couple of months back.



It was near the end of the set and my voice was getting iffy - that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it!

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The Coldamp is indeed what I used, and the amp module is very small, but the PSU that goes with it is twice the size of the amp. I reckon the Icepower modules might be the way to go, but I don't think they sell to the general public as yet.

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Swapping to a stereo input jack would be fine for the Rick. You'd need to get a dual-gang pot (that is, two seperate pots on the same shaft) to replace the mono one if you want to remain true stereo throughout though.

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Take a look at this thread [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=44673&hl=headless"]here[/url]. Might give you a few ideas, or at least a starting point.

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[quote name='Currrls' post='766618' date='Mar 7 2010, 04:00 AM']Theres no reason you cant change an LED to a different coloured one[/quote]

Be careful with this. If the LED is purely an indicator then there's no problem, but sometimes LEDs are used as a voltage dropper within a circuit. Most of the 'older' colours (red, green, yellow) have a forward voltage of around 2V, but some of the 'newer' (blue, white, violet) are up over 3.5V.

There's more information [url="http://www.oksolar.com/led/led_color_chart.htm"]here[/url].

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[quote name='dudewheresmybass' post='762446' date='Mar 3 2010, 12:32 AM']this is pretty much what i'm after.

how would i supply the signal to the unit without losing my signal totally? i know i' said i'm thinking of a 'side chain' but how could i build that?[/quote]

Has your amp got a line/tuner out jack? If so, there's your sidechain. Shouldn't affect your sound at all as these outputs are usually buffered.

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[quote name='mr.sibs' post='767903' date='Mar 8 2010, 01:15 PM']I remember looking at those BK integrated modules, having difficulties finding anything similar though, will keep searching...

I did find this though [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BK-Electronics-Stereo-Mosfet-Amplifier-Model-No-MXF200_W0QQitemZ190340188832QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Consumer_VintageAudio_RL?hash=item2c5128caa0"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BK-Electronics-Stereo-Mosfet-Amplifier-Model-No-MXF200_W0QQitemZ190340188832QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Consumer_VintageAudio_RL?hash=item2c5128caa0 ://http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BK-Electronic...item2c5128caa0 ://http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BK-Electronic...item2c5128caa0 [/url]

seems pretty cheap AND small, no idea how much a**e it can kick though[/quote]

It's actually a 3U rack mount power amp. The current one is in a 2U chassis, so I guess this one's pretty old. [url="http://www.bkelec.com/Pro/Amplifiers/Mxf200.htm"]Link here[/url]

I had one of the MXF400 models (still got half of it in fact), and it was pretty reliable, but large and heavy for the amount of power it put out.

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Also, check all the cab hardware such as grilles, jackplates, handles etc. to see if they're loose and rattling, tighten if needed. Leaks around handles, speakers etc. can be a cause of distortion.

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