molan

[quote name='ezbass' timestamp='1388535504' post='2323264'] Mel C was a bit good IMO. That Fodera is sounding nice and punchy; shock, horror, the BBC mix bass so you can hear it! [/quote] Obviously if it was strung with flats it would sound like a £100 Squier P bass because all basses with flats on sound identical, oh, wait a second. . .

[quote name='yorks5stringer' timestamp='1388536141' post='2323269'] Bit of a guilty pleasure was Rudimental, enjoyed both their numbers! Haim and Mel C too. Mumford and Sons not so......!!! [/quote] My daughter got me into Rudimental - Waiting All Night is a great song (even though I'm about 40 years too old for it really!).

[quote name='ezbass' timestamp='1388533224' post='2323241'] I see Mr Swift is using a singlecut Fodera. EDIT: Beaten to the punch, doh! [/quote] That's an Anthony Jackson Presentation - I've played it and it's simply stunning Loving Charlie Wilson - one of my favourite soul singers

[quote name='thisnameistaken' timestamp='1388440943' post='2322117'] Examples? [/quote] I have flats on a £6.5K Ritter Cora at the moment. I can assure you it sounds absolutely nothing like a cheap P bass. The closest direct comparison I currently have is a Lull P that has flats on. Both have TI flats and sound very, very different to each other. The Lull works particularly well with flats and responds to even small adjustments in the simple passive tone control. The full active circuit on the Ritter gives loads of different tonal options and sounds completely different to my other Ritter that's string with rounds. If anything I can often get even great tonal variation with flats than with rounds on the Ritters. Flats seem to respond really well to the active pre-amp on these. I don't have anything cheaper than the Lull to compare with at the moment. Maybe on really low cost basses it's harder to hear the differences between string types and brands

[quote name='thisnameistaken' timestamp='1388437593' post='2322060'] No I totally get why people use flats, I've got one bass I keep strung with flats for when I want that sound, it's just it's a pretty primitive sort of sound isn't it, so you don't need an expensive bass to get it. [/quote] I couldn't disagree more Flats can sound amazing on a, supposedly, hi-fi bass and a million miles away from how they sound on a basic P bass Plenty of other people here seem to agree with this and have been using them on expensive active instruments with great success

Maybe the lack of younger people is because parts of the site (like all the results published on this page) aren't visible on the mobile devices they use all the time? Sorry to keep harping on but BC is the only site is use regularly that has so many issues when accessing via iPad

At the moment it's my, relatively, plain simple Ritter Cora. It's not the most expensive, or flashy, one I have and it doesn't have the 'mojo' of my '63J. However it's just a great all round gigging bass. Weighs very little, is a dream to play and the alder/maple combination sounds just right to me

I bet they aren't giving their punters 90 days to pay for stuff on the night. Sounds like heap profiteering to me. I know of some massive companies pushing for 90 day terms but not hotels. I'd definitely be a bit wary given the rate at which hotels come and go

[quote name='ezbass' timestamp='1388337039' post='2320916'] It's a plot [/quote] Looks like it's another mobile device thing. I think the plot is to try and stop people using iPads and iPhones to access the site. Youtube videos have been invisible to me for a long time & now I can't see these picture attachments

[quote name='Chris Horton' timestamp='1388330204' post='2320799'] Just for your info... with a little tone adjustment you can get a great P bass tone out of my five string MTD 535 bass [/quote] Totally agree, my old one had a great P tone

I'm getting a 'you do not have permission to view' on each of the results

There are some surprisingly good Fender P5's out there but you have to look hard to find them. Lull P's are universally good, I recently picked up a 4 and it's much more versatile than most, maybe my second favourite personally owned P after an Alleva Coppolo (the KBP5 is a cracking bass but so rare in the UK). I've played some nice US Laklands too. In fact every US Lakland I've tried has been of high quality. Some Nordy P's are nice but maybe not as uniformly good as Lull or Lakland in the same price bracket based on ones I've tried. I've played, and owned, some Sadowsky P's and quite liked them but, for me, the Sad brand is just so associated with a J that they haven't always felt quite 'right' somehow.

[quote name='Thor' timestamp='1388320029' post='2320666'] Hi Barrie, I tried an Aggie 4x10 yesterday and even in the demo room it sounded just immense, very tight with plenty of low end too, I hadn't played through a 4x10 for around 5 years since my back gave a load of trouble, would love to pair it with a couple of DB112's in the future when funds allow. I think that's the only way my back could cope with the weight of the Ag cabs. What are the SL cabs like performance wise? [/quote] The SL's are my favourite of the lightweight 1x12's (although the Berg 2x12 is a cracking cab for less money than a pair of 1x12's). Most people tend to pair the SL's with the TH500 head simply because it creates a complete lightweight rig. However, the TH is, in many ways, a 'baby' DB750/751 so they should work well together. We'll have to give them a try, I don't remember doing this before - mostly because we tend to demo the DB heads through the DB cabs. The Glock 410 sounds great with a DB head as well. It's another heavy unit though

[quote name='kennyrodg' timestamp='1388324619' post='2320731'] Ever so slightly Off Topic but I gigged the TH500 with a pair of DB112's for the first time last night. Fabulous !!! A tip of the hat to Barrie for sending me down this road, cheers mate. [/quote] Happy to help - I know there's an association with the shop but I only recommend stuff I personally think will do the job and the TH plus a pair of 1x12's is a great compact, and powerful, combo

[quote name='PauBass' timestamp='1388306029' post='2320515'] If you liked the tone of the amps on their own, wait until you hear it in the mix. [/quote] Couldn't agree more - the DB heads are very much live gigging amps. I never find they really come alive in a demo room (and I've played both many times through all sorts of cabs). Stick one in a room with a drummer and some loud guitar and they totally come alive. No need to touch the tone controls, just flick the low or high boost if required and you're away. It'll be interesting to hear how it sounds with a BF cab. It's not something I'd automatically recommend (mid focus of BF cabs is very different to any of Aggie's cabs to my ears) but hopefully it'll work well. I love the DB or GS 410's with the 750's, just sounds huge. A pair of DB112's seems to work particularly well with he DB heads as well. Aggie obviously spend a lot of time thinking about amp/cab matching

I've tried a Tone Hammer 500 and a Little Mark III through a similar Schroeder and both sounded good and were pretty loud. The TH is naturally a little warmer (but you can do a reasonable emulation with the MB VLE filter). The yellow might put you off on some of the MB heads but you can created some really nice setups with the modular systems they offer. The 800 adds a fair bit of power over the 500 or, as mentioned above, the 1200 is something of a beast Maybe a bit of an 'off the wall' thought but the Carvin B2000 is a cracking, very clean, muscular power head and it looks the business in black with chromed controls. It's kicking out around 1300w at 4 ohms so you'll need to be careful wig the master volume but it's a steal at £625 in terms of power to cost ratio. The 1500w head is good as well. It doesn't have the simple clean headroom of the 2000 but has a lot of onboard tone shaping, switchable graphic etc. plus it's even cheaper

[quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1388261392' post='2320210'] I was with you up to the Porsche 911 bit... [/quote] Me too. To me a Streamer is more in the VW Beetle class

I've tried flats on Sadowskys, Alembics, Foderas, Ritters etc. All, to one extent or another, could be described as 'hi fi'. I've also used them on various vintage Fenders (J's & P's) plus Custom Shops and relatively basic US & Amex Fnders. I've also played most of these with nickel rounds (I'm not much of a steel user). Every one of them sounded different from each other whatever the strings fitted. Even near identical Fender P's from different eras can sound very different from each other despite having identical flats fitted. We actually ran this test recently with a '61P, '73P and a 2010 US Std P. There was a major difference in tone between each of them with flats fitted. We then, just for fun, put the same flats on a Ritter - massively different tone and the 3 band onboard eq could certainly be heard working. Even in passive mode the Ritter sounded very different from the P Basses. I guess my summary is that the core tone of an instrument means it's going to sound different whatever strings you fit and you can certainly get a huge range of different tones from an active hi-fi bass with flats

P every day of the week. I can get on with many different types of instrument but the good old Stingray just doesn't work for me at all

My covers band likes to try and re-arrange quite a lot of the covers we do to try and add some dynamics (or just to keep everyone alert, lol) to the original arrangements. It would be useful to have sim simple 'sketch pad' type recordings of rehearsals with the agreed arrangements so that people can use them for personal practice in between rehearsals or gigs. I've got almost a complete 'set' of Apple devices - iPhone 5, iPad Mini, MacBook Air, iMac 27". Two other band members use iPads during live performance as well. I wondered whether to get some sort of recording input to use with any of the Apple kit I have or whether a simple standalone device would be more useful. What I'm looking for is something that's easy to use, decent enough quality to record a live band at volume and simple to cut songs up into individual pieces if required. Ideally it would have a quick way to turn off and on in between songs, output to a format I can upload to a Dropbox, have good enough sound quality to pick out individual instruments etc and all with the minimum of fuss. I have to admit that my first thought was just to buy something like a Tascam DR-05 as a simple standalone unit but if there's something that would work well with an Apple device that offers some sort of additional benefit or convenience then I'd definitely consider it. N.B. Might need to take account that both of my obviously mobile Apples have the new type of mini connector so I'd have to add an Apple adaptor at extra cost if something only had the older interface. Any advice greatly appreciated

I've played through both a fair few times. I definitely prefer the look and feel of the 750 with the chunkier knobs and nice metal flick switches. I know two pretty high end pro players who use the DB heads exclusively for live work on very large stages. Both had the 750 but both swapped to a 751 because they preferred how it sounded flat and because the tonal range of the controls worked better for them on the newer model. The tech guys at Aguilar are a very smart bunch and their principal aim when hey bring out new models is always improvement in core tone and usability. Great as the 750 is I think the 751 is definitely a notch up in terms of core sound (even if it loses a little in aesthetics).

This is one of one threads where all the video links are blank on my ipad - I wish someone would get this fixed! It's only on BC that this happens When my kids were young we lived in a very quiet, white middle class area. I often had Bobby W playing at home and had some good video footage of him as well. The first coloured person my daughter saw was when we were out shopping one day. She spotted a cool guy walking towards us and said "ooh look Daddy, there's a Womack"! I nearly died. . .

Definitely try to get the money paid to you in £ and not €. In general terms it's cheaper for the buyer to use his bank to perform the conversion than for a receiving seller in the UK. Some UK banks have been known to charge as much as £25 just to perform the conversion. Also worth checking that any country you're selling to is definitely in the EU. Some Scandinavian countries aren't and this means your buyer would be hit by local sales tax which could be as much as 25%