molan

[quote name='Lowender' timestamp='1385079502' post='2284381'] You can all go on about how rude I am -- it gives everyone a free shot to insult me. That's fine. But you may not want to reconsider being a musician if you can't take the slightest bit of direction. [/quote] So you don't think telling people they need direction on how to ask a question is rude? Astonishing - maybe all the people who comment about the way you respond to them are all wrong and you are the only one that's ever right? Or is that just because you're the only real musician here?

[quote name='Clarky' timestamp='1384717586' post='2279939'] I agree with Billy Apple, your comment came over as laced with vinegar. I don't think anyone here is dumb enough enough to think everyone appreciates their own musical tastes so why p*ss on someone's else's parade? As for your reply, it must be lovely to live in your world [/quote] Lowender trying to wind other people up with crass comments and trying to appear somehow 'clever' at the same time - surely not . . .

[quote name='Lowender' timestamp='1385076117' post='2284336'] Wow, everybody's panties are a bit tight today. Hey, I stand by what I said. I answered your question and you're breaking my balls? Take the advice or don't. And yes, B has the same notes as Ab7 -- both have B, D# and F#. But the Abm7 has an Ab root. So if you play a B with an Ab in the bass, it's same chord. Next time, instead of trying for the snarky come-back, try listening. You might learn something. [/quote] I don't think think this is actually correct? The OP asked an really simple question and was looking for an equally simple answer - something he received without anyone trying to look 'clever'. You told him to "[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]understand what the tonic is and where the chord series begins. The piece is in Gb. You're starting on VI. [/font][/color][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]You should also mark how many beats each cord plays. That will clarify where the changes come. e.g Gb///I////IEbm///I/// etc. [/font][/color][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Secondly, a B has the same notes as a Abm7. What determines the actual chord 99% of time is the bass note. As a bassist it's imperative to hear that. In this case, the bass is playing an Ab" [/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Basically you told him that his question was somehow lacking in a basic understanding of music theory in, what appeared to be, an attempt to make you seem superior in musical knowledge to him.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]That's not other people getting panties twisted - it's just you making a crass and cheap shot at another bass player (or two). . . [/font][/color]

Newer Elixirs are much better in terms of fraying than older sets. I've been using them on at least one bass for years and have definitely noticed improvements The new steels are good too. Haven't had enough time to really get used to them yet though.

I haven't got round to posting them officially for sale (I'll try tomorrow!) but I've got a few different P Bass pickups at home that have all been fitted once, tested and then swapped out again (they came in a PX deal from a project builder friend of mine). From memory there's a Bareknuckle '58 Split P, an Aguilar 4P-60 (this may already be spoken for) and a brand new stock Fender P that came out of a Tony Franklin (these are the standard US P variety used in a lot of different US Fender variants). Also a Nordstrand NP5 and a Fender P5 that was rewound to be hotter by Bareknuckle. N.B. I'm not trying to get around the classified listings rules. I have an annual paid up account. Just thought I'd mention I have some here as people were asking. I should also say that I've heard some demo sets of Fatboy pickups and was rally impressed. About £80 for the hot wound P bass set.

Should be fine. That's a pretty standard MarkBass setup. Generally it's only all valve amps that need a load connected. Momark is a great concept I think. You can build some really flexible heads and they really don't cost as much as some people seem to think I specced out a twin channel version for someone the other day with two inputs and two complete eq strips, could be a really nice little head.

Be super careful with a PF500 and any low impedance load. They have a nasty rep for going 'bang' at the slightest provocation A dead PF500 isn't the worst thing in the world but if you shred your speakers at the same time then it really won't be a lot of fun. Definitely make sure you have a separate DI option (like a little Sansamp pedal or similar) if you're planning on gigging the PF.

[quote name='Prime_BASS' timestamp='1384779104' post='2280547'] Echoing a few sentiments, I doubt this would be of any use to people with more than a 'few' pedals on a board. I have 7 or 8 and at least 4 are always on. What kind of fall back do you have if it runs low during a gig? [/quote] Only that you can plug it in I guess Kinda defeats the object but it works via mains and charges at the same time I think.

[quote name='Dingus' timestamp='1384700263' post='2279605'] If you use some headphones with an impedence in 16-32 ohms range with a sensitivity of at least 100db/mW you should be able to get a decent volume level even with battery -powered portable devices, Barrie. Because of the popularity of things like mp3 players there are lots of headphones on the market now within those specs, so plenty to choose from if you are looking for new pair. I would be interested to hear what that Fodera headphone amp is like , because excellent as it is , I am on the lookout for a better-sounding alternative to the Korg PX4b for playing through at home with headphones on . I have had my eye on that Fodera unit, or the EBS equivalent. [/quote] Just tried the Fodera with my Grado SR80's. Still struggling for volume a bit with these. Maybe I need closed ear 'phones rather than the Grados which are very open?

[quote name='obbm' timestamp='1384731508' post='2280185'] I find this quite funny as the only thing that's broken on mine is the handle. "Just came away in my hand Officer" [/quote] Lol - the handle on mine has held up well (so far) - maybe it's only a matter of time

[quote name='nottswarwick' timestamp='1384702043' post='2279631'] I press and hold down on the space where it is and it appears. What I do wish though is that people would put some text to say what it is, so that if I don't want to look I don't have to. [/quote] If I do that I get the sound but no visual content

[quote name='walbassist' timestamp='1384205477' post='2274074'] My favourite strap of all time is the [url="http://www.richterstraps.com/epages/15454046.sf/en_US/?ObjectPath=/Shops/15454046/Products/%221161%20-%20Supreme%20II%20-%20Black%209cm%22#RemoteViewAction"]Richter Supreme II[/url]. [/quote] Richter make some great straps. Once they've worn in they feel fabulous

[quote name='Lowender' timestamp='1384643748' post='2279181'] For starters, you should learn to understand what the tonic is and where the chord series begins. The piece is in Gb. You're starting on VI. You should also mark how many beats each cord plays. That will clarify where the changes come. e.g Gb///I////IEbm///I/// etc. Secondly, a B has the same notes as a Abm7. What determines the actual chord 99% of time is the bass note. As a bassist it's imperative to hear that. In this case, the bass is playing an Ab. [/quote] Or. . . You could listen to the appropriate part of the song for a few seconds and answer the OP's question quickly and efficiently without condescension. Unless you're wearing chords of course

I've been really getting into the VLE recently. Set at about 9:00 I find it can tame a few unwanted highs and add som nice low end grunt

I also hunted down the cheapest price and ordered one. Use at home to cut out unwanted vibrations creeping out of my little music room and always take it to gigs. The beauty of the Auralex is that it's reasonably well made, has a useful little grab handle and feels like it won't fall apart. Could be a placebo but, relative to the cost of basses, amps, strings, straps etc I can't see the harm in using it at every gig.

[quote name='Anaconda Basses' timestamp='1384642751' post='2279170'] Hi Molan Yes indeed, I make the basses from raw timber and do everything myself apart from the lacquer as I don't have the facilities to be able to do so. Check out Anaconda Basses on Facebook. Plenty of pics of the build process. Cheers [/quote] Cool - so people can come round and see the workshop and where they are made? Always works really well as a sales tool to give customers this option

[quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1384705643' post='2279694'] I found this in guitar shop in scotland when I asked why some of the reliefs were so out. Apparently quite warm in the day and then plunging to scottish winter temps at night - apparently one winter some of the necks were moving so much in the expensive guitars at the back the frets started lifting out.... which isn't great. You wonder how much it would cost to keep the room at a constant temp/humidity? [/quote] Frets lifting is often a sign of the wood drying out due to too much warm air in the shop

In the last week or so I've noticed that all YT content seems 'invisible' on my iPad and iPhone. The content is there but I just can't see it. If I click on the white space it loads and plays but still nothing visible. YT is running fine on all other sites so just seems to be a BC issue. All working fine on my main iMac though.

[quote name='Dingus' timestamp='1384666151' post='2279263'] a good quality dedicated headphone amp. [/quote] I'm pleased you said that - reminded me that I have a Fodera dedicated headphone box for bass. Forgot all about it! Must dig it out, from what I remember it was a bit under-powered, maybe the headphone impedance though?

[quote name='4000' timestamp='1384645897' post='2279206'] This always makes me smile. I play mostly with a pick and I play extremely lightly and prefer an action which Chris May has described as "a guitar action". Probably because in reality I play more like a guitarist. ;-) I remember playing your Zon and the buckeye Fodera at Bass Day and I struggled with both as they were way higher than I'm used to. Liked the Zon though, as we discussed. Molan's completely right; when I took my Alembic to the Gallery to sell it had the best setup I'd ever come across. When I went back to pick it up temperature and humidity changes had played havoc with it. [/quote] Alembics are notorious for shifting around in autumn and spring. One of mine went from being near perfect to, quite literally, unplayable in a just a few days once. The neck had straightened and strings were more less laying flat on the board! There's definitely an issue of people being frightened of truss rods and this means lots of 'everyday' shop assistants won't touch them. Maybe a bit of bridge height adjustment but that's it until the tech comes in. Of course the worst are classic Fenders where you have to remove the neck to get at the truss rod - I dread having to sort a batch of these out. It's not that it's super hard or anything it's just the amount of time involved. We have a vintage J that's currently wearing flats and a pretty high action. It's certainly too high for me to be really comfortable on it so it's on my list to lower. However, someone tried it this week and loved it and said the action and flats made it feel properly 'vintage'. I'm now in two minds whether to set it up for me or someone like him

[quote name='cameltoe' timestamp='1384640828' post='2279146'] Yes I see what you're saying, my basses generally need a tweak every winter and summer, but mostly this seemed action rather than relief. Very hard to get a feel for a bass when I could've limbo danced under the strings. [/quote] The other thing that it's almost impossible to get right is an action that suits everyone From a personal basis I totally agree about not being to play a bass with a high action but we often get people who want the action on a standard bass raised because they prefer it higher. Usually pick players or those who really hit the strings hard. Sod's law usually means that a bass with a super low action will be tried by a heavy-handed player and a neck like a banana will get picked up by a light touch tapping chand chordal bassist, lol. A lot of manufacturers supply 'factory settings' but, for my tastes, these tend to be universally high. Generally I aim for a 'medium' action, take it down until it's buzzing a little and raise a decent amount at the bridge. Makes it relatively easier to quickly adjust if required (obviously not the best method but generally workable).