BB2000

The terms Watts RMS or Watts Peak shouldn't be used (and weren't used until about 20 years ago). It should just be Watts. But it should be stated how it's measured (such as averaged power over a 5 minute period). Watts peak is marketing bullshit. [quote name='silverfoxnik' post='62162' date='Sep 18 2007, 02:30 PM']Hi Folks, Anybody here know if i can run a Gallien Krueger 700 RB head (380 watts at 4 ohms) with a Peavey 4ohm 2x10 cab that has a 350 watt max program power rating(175 watt RMS continuous)? I still find the difference between program and RMS continuous confusing, to be honest.. I've already blown up one GK 2x10 cab through not thinking and don't want to make the same mistake again if I can help it! Thanks Nik[/quote]

I 'won' the auction for the first one. The arsehole ran the same auction (different user name) in the summer. Hopefully I've saved someone being fleeced, at the expense of an ebay strike.

Does anyone remember a UK bass magazine from the early eighties that was full of gear reviews - can't for the life of me remember the title - but it was an A5 size mag. I was trying to remember the title the other day when I came across an Alligator combo from that period (remember them, with the dark green covering?). It brought a flood of memories back. (EDIT - before anyone else says it - yes, I am an old fart.)

Russ, BFM cabs are the way to go. No question. And don't buy a cab from anyone if they're not prepaired to provide a SPL chart for that cab.

[quote name='Rich' post='56922' date='Sep 7 2007, 12:48 PM']Not a handsome pickguard, 'tis true, but easily taken off. I think it's a gorgeous instrument. For me, the side LEDs make it all the more desirable.[/quote] It's not the pickguard as such, but the damage caused to the body by the screws.

LaBella 760FL's + 10 years. Can be a bit pricey in the UK though.

[quote name='warwickhunt' post='56337' date='Sep 6 2007, 08:16 AM']I'm likely to disappear up my own ar*e trying to achieve this[/quote] I'll have two front row tickets please ...

LED's wouldn't bring the price down, but the pickguard would.

Don't change the strings, you probably need to lower the action on the E and A. Garry Willis's website has a nice page on correctly setting up a fretless (or fretted) bass.

Any Bill Fitzmaurice cab owners near these lads - I'd love to see a head to head between Bill's designs and some 'o that fancy kit!

By the way, that seller used to sell basses on this forum, posing as a player rather than a trader.

Note that none of the G&L basses actually have binding in the sense that say a rickenbaker has - in the case of G&L they just leave a strip along the edge of body unpainted - there is no inlay.

The suitcase seems to come in for a lot of criticism, but I bought one earlier in the year and am very impressed by it (practice use only). I think I'll look into the flightcase as well, as it sounds ideal for me. EDIT - I meant the briefcase

[quote name='The Funk' post='53302' date='Aug 31 2007, 12:37 PM']It's going for £750 here but $720 (£350) in the US![/quote] I had a loan of one for an evening last year. I was considering buying one, or an EA300. To be honest I was pretty dissapointed with it, and ended up placing an order for the EA, even though I hadn't tried one. Having said that I don't know how it compares to the EA since I havn't received it yet.

I've had dealings directly with GB in the US and was very impressed by their customer service, which is why I was a bit surprised that they suggested that you shield your bass. I thought they would have sent a replacement unit and arranged pickup of this one, no questions asked, after seeing your video. At the end of the day I've no doubt that they'll do whatever it takes to make you happy.

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