MiltyG565

I'll share it here later, or maybe James or Silvia will share it here?

[quote name='Jimryan' timestamp='1376138416' post='2170102'] Picture? [/quote] Over on Facebook!

[quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1376138050' post='2170092'] Welcome to the 17th century..! We're way out in the 'sticks', in rural France, and had 64kb speed for yonks, until the local authorities decided in their wisdom to invest in high-speed. Despite our distance from the nearest repeater, we have a pretty decent speed now (the 'zip' file took about 20 minutes...). My sympathies, then... [/quote] GAH! Lucky you! Talk-Talk have said there's a fault in the area, although I very much doubt that. It's just crap service.

A friend of mine just sent me a photo from an industry magazine. We got an article printed!

[quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1376135850' post='2170057'] OK,here it is again, in English... "Unpacked it's just under 700 Mb". Note the 'Unpacked'. The 'zip' file is 280 Mb. No idea for the dates, but not worried, as I've nearly finished. [/quote] Oh, ok then! 280mb isn't too bad! I'm downloading a 27mb file that will take about 40 minutes, so 280 should only take about... 6/7 hours?

[quote name='Maude' timestamp='1376133586' post='2170019'] That's quite alright, it'll only go to waste and I'll be due some good karma afterwards . Message me your address and I'll get it sorted, it'll probably be Monday now though as Cornwall shuts for the weekend. [/quote] I'll just pop some good karma into an envelope for you, and send it off as payment PM on it's way

[quote name='Jimryan' timestamp='1376133135' post='2170016'] Depends who you're on about :-p I tried calling Rhino just now but with no luck, so I'll try again later if poss. [/quote] It would be hilarious if you were absolutely fangirling

700mb!? Aw hell, I best leave my laptop on all day to download that. How long is this one running for, because I've not started yet. I assume into mid-September?

[quote name='TimR' timestamp='1376129065' post='2169952'] The Baton is now in leafy Hertforshire. It was good to meet 'Len' and I hope we can raise a few quid tonight. Pictures of the handover will follow no doubt. [/quote] We have no doubt you'll do your best to raise a few notes (both on the bass and in the pot )

[quote name='Maude' timestamp='1376128201' post='2169942'] I had to re-glue the fingerboard on my doublebass and looked into different glues, it seemed the only real option was hide glue so it can be seperated in the future if needed, also hide is much more 'creep' resistant than pva. It looked a real pain to do all that mixing up and cooking the glue, too high or too low a temperature and the joint is weaker blah blah blah, then I found Titebond liquid hide glue, just use is like normal pva, clamp and leave for a 24hrs. The cheapest I found it was a deal for two 8oz bottles, it has a sell by date of next August and I'll never use it all by then, send me your address and I'll post a bottle over to you, just leave me a bit of nice feedback in my feedback thread . [/quote] Wow, really? Thanks very much!

[quote name='RAY AGAINST THE MACHINE' timestamp='1376062174' post='2169230'] Thought of that.downloaded something from line 6, but not working . Will try again tonight;) [/quote] Have you gone into the audio MIDI interface? There might be something in there to help. I've installed software before, but I forget how to do it now, but go to your applications and into audio MIDI, and see if there's anything useful in there, if you haven't already.

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1375985523' post='2168340'] Nuts, ends, rods, you lot are awful [/quote] Whatever do you mean?

[quote name='yorks5stringer' timestamp='1375967996' post='2168037'] Yep, epoxy can take a lump of wood off with it when you prise it apart. Having watched an experienced Luthier struggle to take off many a Martin and Gibson neck with steam injected into the fingerboard around the neck joint, you wouldn't want to make it even more difficult with epoxy. Like I said, if you are concerned about a well glued joint, Titebond is actually stronger than the wood it glues, once set. [/quote] Yeah, that's what I was thinking, I just don't want it to come apart again, besides anything else, I don't want it to look like I can't fix it. And I think most glues are stronger than wood. Let's just be thankful I wasn't talking about grip-filling it on, because when grip-fill goes on, it never comes off. The uke would decompose and there would still be a lump of grip-fill holding together 2 decaying bits of timber [quote name='Dave Vader' timestamp='1375967417' post='2168019'] Trouble with acoustic instruments, particularly those without truss rods is that as the neck moves all on its own over time, you can't readjust it with a truss rod, or shim it and bolt it back on. So taking it off and resetting it for optimum performance/action is the only option. If it happens to this one 20 years down the line, and a luthier gets his hands on it for such a job, he won't thank you for aralditing the thing in. Titebond is your friend, it is excellent stuff. [/quote] Thanks for that! I hadn't considered that the neck would move over time. I was more concerned about glueing it on properly so that the action is good and it plays well. There's definitely a lot of room for error, in either way. It seems that I could make the action too high as to be unplayable, or too low, so the strings ride over the frets. I'm just going to be careful with this. Even though it hasn't cost him anything, I would like to give him a really nice uke to play. And it's his birthday at the weekend too, but it looks unlikely that it will be done by then now.

Ah, good! It's working ok now! The nut must just have been a little bit seized. Definitely a good idea to lube your nuts up...

[quote name='ras52' timestamp='1375953163' post='2167742'] Mine's 2.75" thick (oerr missus) so is unstable on this: But would probably be OK on something like this, which is guess is similar to the Stagg: BTW, that one above is ultra-cheap on Amazon - in the Kitchen & Home category! [url="http://www.amazon.co.uk/HAUSEN-FOLDING-A-FRAME-ACOUSTIC-ELECTRIC/dp/B00D3OBK0O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1375953032&sr=8-2&keywords=guitar+floor+stand"]http://www.amazon.co...tar+floor+stand[/url] [/quote] Yes, that's very similar to the stagg one. I don't need a cheap one now though, I bought 3 recently. My mate did me a good deal on them though He's also selling Hercules wall hangers 2 for 1 for £14! I think he's losing his mind

[quote name='Roland Rock' timestamp='1375941245' post='2167606'] Technically, I'm a cabinet maker in that I don't (usually) do any fitted stuff; I just design/make to design free-standing furniture like tables, chairs, benches, TV cabinets etc. Obviously I make cabinet doors, and have only made big doors (oak ledge and brace type) once. I've never made windows :-( [/quote] I would have loved to do such refined work! I just needed to refine my skills! But that's the kind of thing I'm interested in. Site joinery is alright, but there was too much pressure to do things as fast as you could, and as well as you could, and it could be a real drag some days when you're out in the middle of nowhere on the coldest day of the year. [quote name='yorks5stringer' timestamp='1375950962' post='2167707'] Titebond is what Luthiers use, the reason being it is stronger than wood once set but can be taking apart again with the application of steam. Anything acoustic will eventually need the neck resetting so glue and clamp! [/quote] So you reckon I shouldn't use 2 part epoxy then? I don't think the neck will ever need taken off again. It doesn't have a truss rod or anything like that. I can't see it being taken off really, especially not by it's owner.

I have a fairly thin acoustic guitar, and it sits fine in a cheap stagg stand. Stagg stands aren't too bad these days, the arms have a few different notches in them for different thicknesses of guitar, and I think they are about £15 each. That's just my experience. It's hard to tell how thin your guitar is from that photo. Mine is probably between 3.5 inches and 4 inches. If you really want, I could take a photo of the guitar and how it sits in the stand if you like? At £15 though, it's nearly worth the punt.

Thanks for that! Unfortunately, I don't have quite the setup that you do, but I always try to make the best with what I have. I bought some tools and materials earlier for it though. I would be incredibly upset with myself if I wrecked it, so I am being very careful to do it well. I've cleaned up the old material, although I'll probably do a little more fine sanding/scraping on it tomorrow. I'll set the neck on then and see if everything is still in line, and if it all looks good, I'll glue it up! (Also, do you build doors and/or windows? That's one of the finer aspects of joiner that I wanted to get in to, but never did. Making bespoke worktops was actually what I wanted to do.)

If the chap wants to play a certain gauge, I think his bass needs to work for that. He shouldn't have to change his string preference to play the bass, it's the other way about, I reckon.

[quote name='Greggo' timestamp='1375913352' post='2167491'] This is going to sound bit dim, but I managed to sort it - by removing the plastic cover in the cavity where rod nut is, it gave me more wriggle room to fit Allen key in and turn it 1/4 turn. Truss rod is not about the headstock end but where neck meets body and I realised that I couldn't reasonably turn the Allen that much with the cover in place even if I could fit key in... Are you meant to remove this bit anyway..? (plays better now btw!) [/quote] Ah, your adjustment is at the heel of the neck! Yes, they are tricky to get at, and plenty of people actually slacken the screws on the neck to get at it properly. So long as you can make the adjustment, and everything can go back together the way it was, do whatever you need to! Fender and fender style basses were designed to be easily repaired, and even if you do break something, there's a huge amount of parts on the market for buttons.

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1375895559' post='2167125'] Also as a car tinkerer you say grease Milty but Jeez grease can set like rock! I would get some WD40 down there first then and only then use copper grease if you feel it needs it as it does not set like regular greases. If you get the nut off then just spray the thread of that with WD40 and run it up and down a few times. [/quote] WD40 tends to dry out I find. What I was going to mention though was candle wax. My old tech teacher said it was the best thing for greasing door hinges, and he was the type of guy who would know. And it has the added benefit of never going hard, or drying up!

[quote name='Greggo' timestamp='1375875888' post='2166735'] Might be daft question but how would the nut be taken off? With an adjustable spanner with the neck off? [/quote] Depends on what kind of nut is on it, but if you loosen it, then just keep loosening it, it should eventually just come off the thread, and you can lift it out then, put a little bit of grease in it, and screw it back on. Careful though, if you have string tension on it, the end of the thread might just disappear into the truss rod channel, so take the strings off first!

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1375877069' post='2166764'] Get rid of all the old glue first and then if you can remove the finish in the area where the joint occurs. From your description I would suspect that the part of the finish has come away with the glued surface which is why the joint has failed. The finish probably hasn't adhered to the wood properly so this is the point at which the joint has separated. I can't stress the need for a good wood joint to be clean of foreign substances. [/quote] It actually adhered to the finished surface very well, it was the open pore bits that seemed to fail. The glue is still on the finish, although it isn't on the part of the neck that's unfinished. I've bought some 2 part epoxy. I was going to use wood glue, but I don't ever want that puppy to come off.

[quote name='Greggo' timestamp='1375873402' post='2166684'] In case the nuts just seized a bit, what is a good lubricant that is safe to use on it? Can a sprit of WD40 work using the straw to direct it or is is that a no no [/quote] Some people don't like WD40, but I'd imagine it's fine, as long as you can apply it neatly! Remember that it will seep into the grain of your instrument if you just go squirting it in there, and that's not such a good idea. If it were me, I'd take the nut off completely, and put a little bit of grease in there with a little cocktail stick or something, then screw it back on. That should last forever.

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1375872785' post='2166665'] That's probably why the joint has failed in the first place. I would carefully scrape the finish off just shy of the edges of the joint, clean the bare wood surfaces and then any good modern wood glue should do the trick. [/quote] Well, the glue that was there is still on the body, just not the neck. It's odd. I'll take the sanding paper to it later on