Maude

Youth Gone Wild - Skid Row

Jesus Built My Hotrod - Ministry

Jesus Loves You, But I Don't - The Almighty

All Cats Are Grey - The Cure

On the back of the headstock, stamped into the wood.

Look Away - Big Country

There's crossed wires here I think, or I've got mine crossed 😁. If the centre block/neck is shimmed then the bridge mounting area at the rear of the centre block will need to be shaved down flush with the body to lower the strings. I feel this is probably easier than routing the bridge area down to achieve the same, as the routed area will need to be the centre block and the actual body. The bridge mounts solely on the centre block but also sits on the body. The only 'issue' I see with shimming and shaving is the the centre block won't sit flush with the body anymore (a slight taper to however high the bridge area is before it's shaved down). The entire centre block could be shaved down but that's quite a lot of work. There's probably no right or wrong way, just whatever you'd prefer to do, including chopping the neck off to make it more conventional and shimming that. Either routing the bridge or shimming and shaving the centre block will work, but the will both have their set backs, like possibly needing to route the pickups lower, which being mounted to both the centre block and body give their own problems. Personally, as long as I felt competent in doing so I'd just pick a way I felt comfortable with and go for it. Work out the wrinkles along the way, as the bass isn't valuable enough to warrant paying for the work to be done. Whichever way I went I'd put extra fixings in the heel to stop the neck pulling up again. Whatever you choose to do please keep posting as I'm intrigued to see the solution.

Hmmm, do I like a Yamaha bass? I currently have a BB424x, BBPH, BB734a, BB1100s fretless, Attitude Ltd II, and a pair of BEX4s. They're alright I spouse. 😁

Check out the OKKO FX Motorbass pedal. I don't know if it's what you want, or need, but it's meant to be instant Lemmy.

This is the back of the neck on mine. I think the issue is the actual cutout for the truss rod adjuster. The two front fixings are 65mm back from the heel, the cutout goes right through the neck, the 'T' section where the nut is is probably about a third of the neck width removed, the fretboard ends about 30mm away so adds no bracing. If the two fixings are holding it down but the strings are trying to pull it up, the weakest point is the truss adjuster cutout. If the neck is bending here then that would account for the nut looking like it changes angle the more tension is put on it. @BigRedX suggestion of putting two extra fixings in as far forward as possible would probably alleviate this. Edit, just to add that if a shim was placed at the bridge end and then all four neck fixings tightened then this would add even more bend into that weak area as the heel pushes against the body, hence my suggestion earlier of shimming both ends (one more than the other) to introduce the angle without the heel becoming compressed.

Yes, that was my initial reaction, but as @Hellzero suggested, you could shim so the bridge end lifted increasing the neck angle, but then shave down the end of the neck the bridge mounts on so that the bridge if effectively lowered. The bridge mounts on the centre section/neck. The body itself is completely unneeded other than to mount the controls (and the outer pickup screws).

Yes, I didn't think of shaving down the bridge mounting area. Good idea. One thing worth considering with the shimming approach is that the front (neck end) pair of screws that hold the centre into the body are 65mm back from the end of the pocket. Shimming the bridge end will pivot the neck at the end of the pocket and the front screws being 65mm away from this pivot point will try and bend the neck if tightened down fully. It'll only be a slight amount and might not be a problem, but worth considering maybe. Edit, The above problem (if it is one) could be alleviated by adding shims under both pairs of screws. If the bridge needed a 1mm shim for instance, then a 2mm shim under the bridge end and a 1mm shim under the neck end would hopefully allow the neck to be tightened down without putting a bend in it.

Although the neck bolts to the body, it's more like neck through stick bass with bolt on wings. The bridge and pickups mount to the central neck piece. If you lost the controls you could effectively use the bass without the body at all, almost. It's a bit early but I can't see that you could shim the neck to change angle.

Joker and the Thief - Wolfmother