Maude

I have a Precision bass guitar with a Seymour Duncan Quarter Pound pickup. I have a P bass with a Quarter Pounder. One of the above makes you sound like a tool, you choose which one. 😉

Stupid Kid - Sultans Of Ping

I forgot to say, with bass laying on its back, the three pieces are arranged vertically, side by side across the width of the heel, with the neck horizontally on top so I can't stagger them.

Love Is The Drug - Roxy Music

Righty ho, here's the next installment of my descent into madness. 😉 The only sensible part so far is that I've got @Andyjr1515waiting in the wings to possibly build me a new, wider neck if needed. Thank you Andy for the assistance you've given so far and any future help. Ive done some serious measuring using my EUB as a comparison, my doublebass is in storage at the mo. The fingerboard at the nut is the same width on both so no issues at that end. At the point where the neck meets the body on the Aria, the EUB board is 10mm wider than the original Aria one, so 5mm overhang either side. It's surprising that a doublebass board is not that much bigger than an electric bass one, the main reason it feels so much bigger is the much tighter radius making it arch a lot higher. This is the original neck layed on the EUB at the body join area of the Aria where the biggest overhang will be. The black on the sides is the EUB board which is the same size as a DB. The bare wood is the neck to heelblock join which separated with the heat when removing the neck, note the terrible shape from the factory, a really asymmetric carve. More of that in a minute though, back to the neck/board. I've ordered a board and have a plan to still use the original neck. A new, more DB like neck would be much better to fit the new, wider board to, but if it's deeper like a DB and wider then I'm worried about the added weight on one end the bass. If you can imagine the profile of the Aria neck as a ( shape, then the sides meet the board at less than 90 degrees, if that angle were to be continued on the sides of the DB board, which is 11/12mm thick, then the 5mm overhang might be able to be lost while keeping the top playing surface full size. Remember the nut is the same width so will only gradually get wider towards the body, and after the body the width and shape is irrelevant to it fitting. The original neck won't have the profile of a DB neck but I fear that would add far too much weight. Hopefully this way the added weight of the thicker board will be spread as the board will go over the body as well. I possibly have a cunning plan regarding the length of board but that's for later in the week. I've glued the three bits heelblock back together. I'll let that dry overnight and glue it to the neck tomorrow. Then I can try and clean up reshape the joint ready for when the new fingerboard arrives. What is it they say about clamps? Also if glue is supposed to be sticky, why does everything become unfeasibly slippery once a layer of glue has been added? Not enough pressure from the clamps and the gaps don't close up, too much pressure and the whole thing slides and explodes. I need to sharpen a chisel to clean out the neck joint socket of this forlorn looking thing now.

I'll have to second Keith Moon, just for the sheer craziness of it all. Also Stephen Morris for the raw energy and Boris Williams because he's just a great drummer.

Burning Down The House - Talking Heads

Keep On Running - The Spencer Davis Group

I confused, but it is late. Why would the B string be any shorter from ball to silk than the E string? If anything I'd expect it to be longer as the saddles generally get moved back progressively towards the lower strings to achieve correct intonation, meaning that length would probably be longer on the B than E.

Here you go. Maybe different repairs and tools but techniques that can be adapted maybe.

I watched a video on a luthier repairing Willie Nelsons guitar. Just to make it structurally sound but keep the mojo. I'd guess that's what you'd like to do here? I'll have a look for it in the morning. Also in my Aria FEB thread in this section Matt P posted a link to a luthier with lots of content on acoustic repairs, really interesting if nothing else. Here you, hopefully there's something in there with similar repairs. https://youtube.com/user/twoodfrd

Yeah save that. The soundhole is only where the finish has worn away isn't it? Glue a few cleats under any splits. Have you seen Willie Nelsons? https://images.app.goo.gl/y2TsvXRE7oggToCX7

Definitely worth steaming that and then see where you stand. It's amazing what will come out, then a fine sand and some oil and you might just be surprised. My doublebass fell over from standing with the fingerboard hitting the edge of a granite step first. It crushed a string into the board and absolutely destroyed loads of windings on the string. Being ebony it's very dense and hard. I steamed it with wet kitchen towel and a soldering iron to really target the two inch long dent, a strings thickness deep. It took a good few goes but it came out completely, finish with 800 wet'n'dry and lemon oil. The rest of the band couldn't believe it the following week. You've got nothing to lose. 🙂 This was the string so you can imagine the board.

Hot, Hot, Hot - The Cure

Completely separate to the 4003 bass. More of a answer to the repeated asking to re release the 4005, albeit with a different body shape, pickup spacing and tailpiece. Yours for £5k 😆

Pssst, that was Avril Lavigne. From what I hear Swifty is a pretty shrewd, and ruthless if needed, business woman, and if you're her target audience then she writes a pretty catchy pop tune. Good luck to her.

Or........ well, you know.......find someone who could make a new neck about 20mm wider at the body end with the Takamine headstock grafted on with a scarf joint. You don't know anyone do you? Ha ha, now you wish you hadn't joined in this thread. 😄 I going to leave it for the weekend as I want to try and get my Hofner pickups in and wired up. This Takamine wasn't meant to take over but the excitement of flame throwers and sledgehammers got the better of me. I might get a fingerboard ordered and go from there. I'll order some veneer of some kind as well to shim the dovetail. In one of the vids mentioned earlier he glued a veneer to edges of the dovetail and filed/chiseled/scraped to shaped after changing the neck angle, seems like the simplest way.

Raspberry Beret - The little purple one

Crash - Primitives

No, I had the 'embarrassment eraser filter' on so they didn't come out. 😁

Crawling - Linkin Park

😉👍

It was T. S. Eliot that wrote, "This is the way the bass ends. This is the way the bass ends. This is the way the bass ends. Not with a bang, but a splinter", or something similar. Final score, Me 1, Aria 5. That's to say I'm in one piece, the bass is in, well more pieces than I'd planned. I now have a body, a neck and three parts of a heel. I managed to drill the joint and get some heat into the centre following couple of the videos posted by @Matt P, (thanks for those, very interesting) where he used an electric element on one and a soldering iron with a long tip on another instead of steam injection. He mentioned that the steam can get under the finish causing misting and just get water in places you don't want it, so as our old steam mop had been thrown out I thought I'd try it. I cut spoke from an old bike and wound a coil into the end of so my soldering iron would slip inside. Squirted some water down the hole and slipped the spoke in and waited. I could feel the joint warming so occasionally turned the bass over on two wooden blocks with the neck between the two, and firmly tapped the heel with another block of wood and rubber mallet. Nothing. More water, more heat, more patience, another whack, tiny gap opening between the heel and the back, but also glue starting to squeeze out of the heel joints. The heel is made up of three individual vertical parts with the neck glued horizontally on top then the whole thing dovetailed and glued into the body. Basically all four parts of the heel/neck started to ooze glue and move independently, but it still wouldn't let go. I guessed as the joints had all moved then there's no going back, the neck has to come off to re glue the four bits. This is where things got messy. I used a heat gun on low as well as the soldering iron to warm the joint completely as it now had to come out somehow, but still burnt some of the finish around the heel. Nevermind, roasted necks are all the rage aren't they? I'm not worried about this as I had a plan in my head as to finish which meant these areas would be a lot darker anyway. It's not black, just darkened it. The neck came out leaving the three bits of heel still in there so I drilled the hole slightly bigger so the ceramic element of the soldering iron, with the tip removed, would fit directly in the heel. More cooking and it's all out. It's not pretty but it's all out. I've put it away again now to mull it over but as it was built from four parts I assume with some careful cleaning, glueing and clamping, I can refit all the bits, after reshaping. I have had another idea but I'll mull things over before air that one.

Over And Over - Hot Chip

🙈