Maude

I have had the same thought, as the bass comes the bridge, and bracing, is designed to work with more of a shearing force than the straight downward force a floating bridge will place on it. My plan, and I use that word extremely loosely, is to knock up a rough bridge and tailpiece, hook the tailpiece over the bottom strap pin, with a suitable brace over the bottom of the bout, and try it as it is before removing anything original. The strings will be miles above the fingerboard but I'll be able to roughly judge its tone, and strength, on the open notes. Possibly even leave the normal E and G and fit the A and D over a tall narrow bridge to compare the two. If it really isn't going to work then I can just repair the original damage on the Aria and keep it or move it on. On the other hand it may be terminally broken from the outset. Obviously with lockdown and everything I haven't been going out or doing anything really that costs money, so if it implodes then although I'll have lost money, I'll still be up for compared to normal life expenses. And in the words of Henry Cole from Shed And Buried, "We may not have made any money, but we've had some fun doing it". 🙂 Edit. I could add a soundpost if the top looks like imploding.

Time Bomb - Rancid

Dead End Street - The Kinks

I haven't even considered the finish yet, it might be matchsticks by that point. 😆

Nope, it makes no difference on mine.

Not quite, if the idea here was to add a link for feedback to your sig so that everyone can find it easily, then that's not a good solution if some people still can't see that info. I'm not going to argue though as internet arguing just doesn't work. Feel free to put whatever you want in your sig, just understand that some won't see it.

So because something happens on your device it must happen on everyone's? Righto, at least that's cleared that up.

Screenshot in portrait. Screenshot in landscape.

Calm down dear, it makes no difference on my phone using the mobile site. As I said earlier, avatar, name and watts rating is the only info visible. No location, no post count, no sig, nothing other than that ve stated twice now. It's no problem though.

No you won't get any nut wear issues with that. Those string runs are exceptionally straight compared to some basses.

@mybass, I've got an EUB, it's not acoustic and you can't play sat down with it on your lap. 😉 I appreciate the input but this is mainly about just trying to do something different. The closest off the shelf bass to what I want is the TB-10, and at over £2.5k it isn't in the price bracket of home noodler. Even then it doesn't have an extended board like a DB. This may well turn out to be a disaster, but it's a bit of fun and I thought I'd document it so everyone can point and laugh when it goes wrong. Or maybe even be amazed if it works. 🙂

Ghost Riders In The Sky - Stan Jones and the Death Valley Rangers

It's the right (plucking) hand that I want the extra fingerboard length for. The picture in this link shows why, including why it needs to be raised off the soundboard, see his thumb. https://images.app.goo.gl/E9a6uj9SBseZjEBE8

He's probably been making bread. Tom owns a bakery and his Lance Corporal brother a butchers shop.

So when are you picking it up then Tezza? 😁

I assume buying and selling is always accompanied by some private messages organising the trade? Would it not be very easy to just add a link to your feedback page in your final message after the transaction saying something along the lines of, "Thank you for the 'whatever it is', please leave appropriate feedback here? Thus prompting feedback and sending them to the correct place. Surely not that difficult?🤔 One issue with all these links in your signature is that if you browse on the mobile site you don't get any of that info. All I can see of anyone's info is their avatar, username and watts rating, everything else I, and everyone else on the mobile site, have to go looking for. Not a problem though as it's just clutter 99%of the time.

Ha ha, you haven't seen my new thread in the build diaries then 😬.

@lobematt I could use that neck. A long shot now but I've PM'd you. 🙂👍

Aw he's a teeny tiny gnome.

New Life - Depeche Mode

I looked up the 4 string cream version, it says 'available in several months'.

It's funny isn't it, how people whose opinions I respect can be so wrong? 😉 The cream one is the nicest. 😁

The overhang part is more important for me for the plucking (right) hand, so the point where you would go into thumb position with the left hand not so relevant. Without the overhang to play over you can't slap like a doublebass.

It's just for noodling at home so will probably be played seated at 45 degrees rather than either extreme. I'm in an acoustic band and when we do The Pretender by Foo Fighters I quite often lay the doublebass over and play it like a bass guitar, it's cheesey as hell but with the mandolin player on his knees beside me both 'rocking out' it's a crowd pleaser. Anyway it's actually very comfortable to play like that. You physically can't play a doublebass like a bass guitar, or a bass guitar like a doublebass, I want a bass guitar that you can play like a doublebass. For silly things like sitting in the garden playing, sure I could lug a doublebass out there but they're cumbersome and then I can't just lay back in a chair and play. It's just as much for the challenge of doing it as anything else. In my original post I said, "Is it worth trying? Probably not." I also said I might be an idiot. 😁

No I probably won't get as wide string spacing as I'd like, but the point I'm trying get across (not very clearly 😁) is that I don't want to take a doublebass board and make it fit a bass guitar, rather take a bass guitar and make it fit a doublebass board. I want the long overhang of fingerboard raised off the soundboard so that I can play it like a doublebass. If I shave the neck down so that it sits flat on the neck and soundboard and use the existing bridge then I may as well just use my existing fretless acoustic. See the length of fingerboard in this picture compared to a bass guitar. The red area is just as important as the neck radius in making it play like a doublebass. Something even the TB-10 doesn't achieve. I'm not sure how I'll do this until I've got the parts and do some good old British eccentric in shed engineering. A doublebass nut isn't as wide as you might think (about 42mm) so the compromise will be starting the board at neck width at the nut and getting possibly wider than the neck at the body end. The bottom of the nut end can be sanded down (as in your explanation) which will narrow it and lower it's profile while keeping the radius the same, but leave the body end wider and taller. This will act to increase the neck angle, hopefully allowing the overhang of the fingerboard over the soundboard to be raised enough to allow for it to be played like a doublebass. This in turn will mean the bridge will need to be a lot taller, meaning a tailpiece will be needed. If the strings were anchored to a taller bridge the levering action would tear it off the soundboard. The edge of the fingerboard that will protrude over the neck edges will need to be addressed, but again, until I can see and feel it I won't know the best course of action. This is all just a mad plan in my head and might not work at all, but nothing ventured and all that. 🙂