Maude

Pull Up To The Bumper - Grace Jones

Personally I can't see there's any need. If you do then where do you stop? Are short scales any more different and popular than say, five strings? If not then do we end up with separate four, five, six, eight and twelve string sections, short scale, long scale, medium scale, traditional style, modern style, active, passive, painted, natural wood, fancy 'coffee table' wood, blah blah blah? Where do you draw the line?

The Riverboat Song - Ocean Colour Scene

Nothing saucy. 🤫 😄 The Yamaha BB Peter Hook signature. A rare and magnificent bass. 😉

Zombie Noise - The Meteors

Large venues are cheaper I find, no amp needed. I've did several festival gigs with an Aria STB Series P bass (£40 second hand) and a Behringer BDI21 (£19 on Amazon at the time)

And we're BBPH brothers now I see. 🙂👍 Edit: That was meant to be more jokey, less creepy sounding than it does when read back. 😁

An evening with Peter Hook and The Light in April. They're doing their own support by playing a set of New Order tracks, then playing Unknown Pleasures and Closer in full along with other Joy Division favourites. First gig for a few years and I'm really looking forward to it.

National Express - The Divine Comedy

Download the Boss tuner app to your phone. Free, works a treat and looks just like a TU3. Tuner linky. Top tip, reduce sensitivity in the settings to make it more stable.

All Cried Out - Alison Moyet

Generally speaking your G string saddle will be the furthest forwards (towards the neck), the D,A & E will need progressively more string length to correctly intonate. Therefore set your G saddle on nearly it's furthest reach (towards the neck), I say nearly as I always leave some spare adjustment forwards in case of any mis-measuring or string anomalies. On a Fender style bridge leaving about a saddles width of thread sticking out of the saddle should be fine, just in case. Then sit your bridge with 34" (if that's the scale of this bass) between the G string nut slot and saddle. Measure from the fretboard side of the nut. Others may do it differently but I've yet to have this method fail on me yet. I'd also use a peice of thin string, even cotton, to make an E and G string to ensure the bridge is aligned properly with the neck.

Grinding Halt - The Cure

Some Candy Talking - The Jesus And Mary Chain

Quite. I'd also expect a set up to be part of having a neck shim, especially at that price. You can't shim a neck and then not set it up, well you can if you just don't care, but I wouldn't want anyone like that working on my basses anyway. It almost sounds like he's priced the job out of the water as he doesn't want to do it. If you (the OP) really don't feel able to do the job then that's fair enough, but it really is a string of simple, small jobs, rather than a big, daunting task. Any number of folks on here will be more than happy to walk you through it oe step at a time. Best of luck whatever route you choose. 🙂👍

New Dawn Fades - Joy Division

You shouldn't have to force the trussrod nut, you'll end up rounding out the hex hole or worse snapping something. It's worth giving the neck a little physical help when tightening a stiff trussrod. Place the bass (string side) against a sofa or something, brace with your lower leg and gently, I said gently 😉, prise the neck backwards, then turn the trussrod to hold it in this position. It takes the stress off the threads while adjusting Was about to say nut slots should be slanted but @PaulThePlughas just covered it. I'll leave Paul to talk you through everything as it'll just get confusing with too many chipping in. 🙂👍

The nut does look quite high. Are the new higher gauge strings sitting at the bottom of the nut slots, or do they need widening slightly?

I was about to say the same as @PaulThePlugabout shimming it wrong, but you appear to have put a sensible sized shim in the the right place. This shim should have angle the neck backwards so you must have a crazy amount of relief in the neck to get that string height. I'm thinking maybe you've just gone to extremes out of desperation and possibly, although you have a huge string gap, the string when fretted is hitting on the end of the fretboard as the bridge is low. Imagine a straight line between nut and saddle that sits just above the last fret. With too much much relief, when fretted in the middle of the board the string will now hit that fret. It's hard to say without seeing the bass in the flesh, but I'd be inclined to straighten the neck and remove the shim and start from scratch.

Our Lips Are Sealed - Fun Boy Three

Hot For Teacher - Van Halen

The Jack That House Built - Jack'n'Chill

You, er, wouldn't happen to have this week's winning lottery numbers as well by any chance. 😁

Tied Up Too Tight - Hard-Fi

There's bolt on necks and bolt on necks too though. This is a lot more elegant and smooth transition than the standard Fender P join. Yamaha BBPH.