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Everything posted by DiMarco
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What's the worst bass you've ever owned or played?
DiMarco replied to Marc S's topic in Bass Guitars
Worst "real" bass I have ever owned was an Alembic series 1. Absolutely tonally dead and boring instrument, sounded way too perfect and reminded me of synth bass sounds. That experience made me hesitant to try any active basses for years and years until I found out about Warwicks and later on Zon basses, which ARE responsive. -
I don't think the neck caused that, Kev. I have owned two Zons and one sounded rather sterile. The old '94 one I still own is lively and warm, even with the lots of clarity it has. Favored it to the Corvette $$ I sold just because of this.
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Having taken the strings, and then the neck off, and letting the neck rest for some time shows a beautiful curve existing only on the B string side so it probably isn't caused by string tension or whatever... OHNOES! What to do... The neck shape is different from other jazzes on this Marcus sig and I really preferer it to the standard ones. I will try and see where exactly the truss rod does most of its work. I am hoping it works mostly near the 12th fret as this is the problem area. Maybe just a little push will make it be more even on both sides. Let's try and make the most of it and if needed have the frets shaved according to the (not so huge) neck twist. If that doesn't turn out to make it playable I will throw a carbon neck onto it as wooden necks (apart from the Rickenbacker ones) keep giving me trouble. Thanks guys.
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I switched from Warwick to Zon. Thinking of throwing a carbon fiber neck on my Fender fiver as well. It simply is better then wood is for necks, never any hassle. Warwicks are great basses though! Nothing bad to say about them. Might buy one again in the future. The Dolphin Pro1 is my fave among them.
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Hi, Amazing bass guitar. Sounds DA BOMB! But it recently started suffering from rattling B, E and A strings near the 2nd and 3rd frets, and near the 15th fret onward. Inspecting the neck shows it is straight at the G string side, but there's too much relief near the 12th fret on the B string side (it is straight again from the 7th fret in the direction of the headstock). The truss rod is adjusted on the body side of the neck. Will tightening it fix my problem or has my neck gone bad for good? I am wondering where the area of effect starts with this type of truss rod, I have only ever fixed problems on headstock side adjusted truss rods before. Thanks for any enlightenment.
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WARWICK STREAMER 1983 SPECTOR PADDLE HEADSTOCK
DiMarco replied to Riseinside's topic in Basses For Sale
1985 was a wild year in the history of both Warwick and Spector; Warwick were forced to apply the "licensed by" truss rod covers on their paddlehead streamers, then Spector were gobbled up by Kramer who did not care whatever Warwick were up to. Warwick changed the headstock design later that year and got rid of the "licensed by" crap. This tells us that quite briefly, somewhere in 1985 is the only moment Warwick used these truss rod covers to not only cover truss rods but also their arses. LOL. My (somewhat educated) guess is that in 1985 Warwick applied these truss rod covers to all the Streamers they, or their resellers had in stock including the very few produced in 1983. I would love to see some pictures of this bass. It is very likely to be AWESOME. -
[quote name='dannybuoy' timestamp='1507794522' post='3387936'] Nice selection. Always wondered how the Mel9 fares on bass... [/quote] Usually, for playing ease I first raise the signal one octave with the whammy. With a 24 fret neck however you can get away without that. Getting the Mel9 to sound good takes practice, it only has three volume levels on the output of notes it plays. Tracking is awesome.
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Wah'tsup.
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Vanderkley are better than Barefaced cabs, right?!
DiMarco replied to Al Krow's topic in Amps and Cabs
That is oversimplifying things. The motor in the bb2 speaker has a large max excusion. Combined with the very light but stiff cone this causes the speaker to still sound very clear and detailed at LOUD volume. I do not know how the speakers in the VK will behave for sure, but I expect cone distortion at volumes where the BF still sounds tight. Cone distortion can be a good thing though, depending on the tone you're after. This will however have a big impact on how well your sound punches through the mix. Again, all depends on what you are after. -
We go to gigs by car and can help eachother dragging the gear around. I do not see any point in having a lightweight amp unless it has extra functionality like the Darkglass M900 (drive/dist) or Tech21 VT500 (sansamp) have. Besides that, my valve amps (27kg and 13kg) sound a whole lot better then any of my solid states.
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Which one would you pick and why? [attachment=255175:Valves_Vs_Tubes.jpg] I really only need one of them but can't seem to want to sell either. Thoughts?
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I use different combinations of these elements... Different flavors of tone. All are nice. [attachment=247270:stax.jpg]
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New Amp....not telling yet but it's NOT a TE Elf
DiMarco replied to TheGreek's topic in Amps and Cabs
Funny thing Col. This is what I scored on Ebay myself last week! [attachment=247008:hexa_front.jpg] [attachment=247009:hexa_rear.jpg] Built in jan 1991. Condition is mint. Had to replace the (original TE branded) 12ax7 valves in there with a pair of new tung sols. Its grip over the speakers is just ridiculous. Everything sounds tighter and more dynamic then with any of my other amps. WOW! -
I bought a Trace Elliot Hexa Valve amp in mint condition from André, which was advertised on here but also on ebay. The deal went very smooth, amp's condition makes me think it is some sort of time capsule, looks nearly brand new and it is from 1991! Great communication, awesome packaging, quick shipment, great price. One of the best people to deal with on the internet. Thanks André!
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[attachment=245707:who_is_the_alpha.jpg]
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The pedalboard is roughly 39x25cm. It holds two rows of 4 standard size pedals. [quote name='Cuzzie' timestamp='1493063368' post='3285358'] Can I ask what size pedalboard you have to squeeze in there, as I think I have one lurking around at home somewhere. For the moment I have a Fusion DJ mixbag which stores the amp, and all cables et pretty easily, but is too snug for a pedalboard [/quote]
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Update: Dirt, dirt and more dirt. Thanks. [attachment=244008:mainlydirt.jpg]
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Transportation of a light amp and my fxboard made even easier... A laptop trolley! [attachment=243999:HOW_HANDY.jpg]
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[quote name='bjelkeman' timestamp='1489792907' post='3260007'] What cabs have you tried with the Darkglass M900 amp? What did you like? Any combination you didn't like? We tried the TKS W2126 which I like, and the Mesa Subways (112 & 115), which was less successful. [/quote] I boost lows a little bit, cut lower mids @ 250hz and boost the high mids + treble to get the most out of my Barefaced Big Twin II. With these EQ settings all my basses sound great through the m900. I suppose it simply comes down to adjusting EQ to get the most out of whatever cab you bring. The amp is flexible enough.
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Fender announcement. No more rosewood 'boards.
DiMarco replied to fretmeister's topic in Bass Guitars
Phenowood & Ebonol. There I fixed it. -
Trace Elliot AH 300-12 GP12 - suffers from 50hz humming Trace Elliot RAH 600 SMX - blows out one of its fuses when switching it off in crossover mode Mesa Boogie Bass Prodigy Tech21 VTbass 500 Phil Jones Bass Cub Roland Bass Cube RX Both Trace heads will be thrown in the garbage, repairing them costs too much. Shame.
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The older class D amps were souped up mono hi-fi amplifiers. Never liked any of them. This one is rather interesting. My 500w Tech21 doesn't go loud enough with a Barefaced bigtwin II. I just wonder if 900w will be enough to keep up with my 250w all valve head, which can get insanely loud.