DiMarco

[quote name='MarkusWarwick' timestamp='1373986138' post='2143868'] Thats just beautiful. I see Ross is selling the early Dolphin you sold him. Never played a really early Dolphin, how would you describe the neck, etc? [/quote] Mine has a thick neck profile, but I got used to it pretty quick. Tbh I don't care much about neck shapes. The one Ross is selling has a thin profile and a wide nut. Fastest playing neck on the planet imo.

Nobody on ye British bassforum liketh olde traces of Clive Button?

Holy crap-o-hoola! Already got some mirrors in the house though...

I took the compressor off my board and replaced it with a 19" rack dualband unit for the fender amp, and use the built in SMX dualband comp in my Trace AH300-12 since my comp is ALWAYS on. Besides that I only use either my Tech21 VTBASS 2 or my MXR M80 for some OD/Dist. There no longer is any pedalboard.

That was indeed the big idea, but I failed to produce a proper P tone so... Anyway, back to Warwicks which are my fave modernish growlybasses. The midrange on that SN TCS is really something else huh Wombatboter?

Aaaaand its back for repairs. 50hz hum is still there. I think it is the volume pot... Also since its last repair the cooling fan stopped working (unless it is supposed to not start turning until the amp becomes hotter?). Bummer, more waiting.

Leuk dat je enthousiast bent over mijn favoriete bas, Geert! Ze schoppen kont! Warwick used thick necks a lot in the early 2000's, my '95 pro1 5str. Also has one. Early Dolphins and the current ones have thinner neck profiles though. Switching the twinjazz to its alternate mode makes even the slap tone growly and quite frankly gives the thumb bass a run for its money. These basses are brilliant! ... But also rare. I'm happy to own one and have owned several before. Kept the one I like best... This photo will give ppl an idea of its body size, rather smallish.

Today a package came in from Memphis, TN. A brand new Illuminated front and new white caps for the 12 band EQ. I sprayed one of those bright red myself. In the meantime I had the amp checked by a tech who did a lot of work on the power section. Amp now looks like this (ready to shake some serious butt!):

My 2000ad Trace AH300 12 GP12 is at the shop for fixing a nasty 50hz buzz. Its previous owner decided to neglect it and take it apart, half the screws for putting it together were missing and its outer hull is gone too. I just have the 19" iron box and a 100% functioning amp. Decided to fully restore it to its former glory so ordered me a brand new front panel at British Audio and rebuild its case by hand. In the mean time here's some photoshop pr0n for the meanest pre-amp in history of bass.

[quote name='jimbobothy' timestamp='1370734356' post='2105071'] I had to clean out the neck pocket on mine (over spary build up etc) to help with the alignment. Overall these basses do sound great but they could be finished a bit better regarding quality control, and I'm not talking about the soft roadworn finish! [/quote] That goes for every Fender instrument on the planet imo, even the American built ones. You have to take off the neck anyway to setup the trussrod to your liking so np there. While at it I put the double F neck plate on there that came as an extra with the bass. Last night I took the Nate P for a spin in the studio and played it through my Fender TB-600 amp plus SWR cabs. The earth shook. This bass has tremendously high output with loads of BALLS. The tone of it is one of the best P bass sounds I have heard in a long time with lots of definition and sweet midrange. Also, the instrument is completely free from any interference or 50hz buzz. The Marcus Miller sig and Ric 4003 I had to fill up with copper tape to make them more quiet but this Nate Mendel signature Precision is perfect and doesn't require any tinkering or fixing. I'm one happy camper once again!

Bit of extra contrast and more vibrance. Image taken just now in fading daylight. The action on this bass is great, with the E and G string saddles nearly all the way down. Plays like a dream. Honest! Soon as I got it here today (around noon) I had to tighten the truss rod thus take off the neck. I cleaned the neck cavity and neck end since there was quite some wood dust in there and I figured this would impact the sustain of the instrument quite a bit?

Bass might not get out of your system. It sounds really really nice. I was looking for a somewhat oldskool P tone but not willing to spend thousands on getting it. As you can see I now have a pretty broad palette of bass tones available. None of my other basses seems capable of grasping that P presence though so I just had to...

Ding ding! The red hottie is just in! (but she needs a proper setup first)

To breathe some new life into this lovely thread here's the pics that gave me GAS for this particular bass in the first place...

Yep. qp's. My NM sig P will arrive tomorrow if all goes well \o/ Will sit rather nicely next to the MM sig J and Ric 4003 JG in my little row of classic tone monsters.

Today I replaced the old burnt out unit with the Visaton one. As you can see in the photos the old L-Pad has suffered total meltdown with its previous owner. A problem he chose to solve by removing the lightbulb and replacing it with a regular fuse. The lightbulb however is part of the filter and I will have to replace the fuse with an original lightbulb. Now then, the Visaton L-Pad is a fair bit larger then the original one that was built in by SWR. It has some sort of ceramic material and the rest of the housing is metal. I hope this will dispensate the heat better then the original unit, which is mostly made of plastics. I haven't heard the final result of this operation yet as I still need to get myself a lamp and get rid of that fuse. What I do know is that the Visaton fits properly and that the original cover and knob can be simply pulled from the original L-pad and fit properly on the Visaton one. Good stuff!

Ow mister Hall will find that this attitude will not bear any fruit. I really like my 4003. Great sounding bass!

Compression goes either at the front or the end of the chain depending on preference. Basically for a good starting point the order of things is Tuner -> Octaver/Harmonizer -> Distortion/OD/Fuzz -> Filtering -> Modulation -> Delay/Reverb. Filtering are effects such as an (auto) wah, Modulation effects are chorus, phaser, flanger etc. Cheers, Marco

The light bulb has been previously replaced by a regular (fast) fuse, which is working. I can get the visaton L-pad pretty cheap and fast so I think I'll just order me one. When I push the highest 2 frequencies on my 12 band Trace Elliot EQ all the way up the cab sounds like it should at the moment. Thanks for your input guys!

Hi, I own a Goliath Jr. III cabinet. The HF unit in it is working but really really softly, near inaudible. The HF level control on this cabinet feels funny and wants to be in the center position, hardly turns. Is it fried? I think so... So I find myself searching for a replacement L-Pad right at the moment and am wondering if this would be a good one: http://www.visaton.com/en/chassis_zubehoer/zubehoer/lc95.html It is a Visaton 8ohms L-Pad rated at 100 watts. Any thoughts or recommendations? I'm located in the Netherlands. Cheers, Marco.

Ah never mind... the S150 is a 12" guitar speaker.

Sore fingers? set up your bass proberly so you don't have to play so hard imho. Lowest possible action and a nearly 100% straight neck here - never any pain! Dig in for added fret noise. Your playing will be more controlled and grooves will be stronger, slapping will be easier as well. This is a win/win situation really.

If it is a sidewinder S150: Fs 58.5 Hz VAS 97.38 liter Re 6.21 ohms Z 8 ohms BL 13.6 Qts 0.352 This is all I have, no info on XMAX sadly so it will be hard to come up with any port good dimensions.