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Rabbie

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Posts posted by Rabbie

  1. I had started this thread as something else, but I changed my mind and this is really what I wanted to discuss anyway...
    Next year my car is due for a change. It's an estate car, it's been great for the bass and taking amp and 2 passengers at the same time. Another estate is the obvious way to go, but I have never driven any other type of "big" car with a bass in it. Can anyone suggest a great bass car for me to consider. May I add the budget is on the cheaper end of family cars. Also, I have absolutely no interest in car: if they carry the family and the bass at the same time, they are a great car to me!

  2. The Peacemaker model is indeed a thing of beauty. Much like the "Cleveland" model of the American Standards, it's fat body and high shoulders may make it less suitable to soloing in the high register but I bet it's a powerful cannon for regular bass duties. Mind you, my Duke is a violin shaped modelled on the Kays of the late 30s and it is a very powerful sounding machine too. It does the old school direct sound to perfection and then some. It ain't a nimble sports car, more like a steam train that'll pull any kind of band IMO.

  3. dudi8,
    Although I am primarily a roots player, I have used mine at pro level for everything apart from bow work. In more modern settings I "had" to use a bright steel string, but by trade I prefer guts and do a lot of slapping.
    They are the best plywoods money can buy IMO. Made in Germany with passion. They don't have the street cred of 1930s Kays or American Standards, but that's an attitude fostered by the pursuit of old mojo, Dukes are every bit as good to my ears. The only reason why they are advertised purely as rockabilly basses is that modern jazz players need a more versatile instrument, not just the old school pizz sound that is the "forte" of the Dukes.
    I recommend them very very highly indeed. Hope this helps.

  4. [quote name='Telebass' timestamp='1418976050' post='2635312']
    Similarly, I see no grand reason to move from the 1/2 size I'm learning on. The actual difference is negligible. In fact, the only downside so far is the lesser availability of strings...
    [/quote]
    You are totally right, don't move just now until you find out if you are going to play it seriously, there's no need just now. But when you do, you will have to go 3/4. Strings are not an "only", they are a double bass player obsession and one of the most important ingredients of finding your sound.

  5. The double bass as used and understood by just about all non-classical players is 3/4 size. There are some small 3/4 around and some bigger ones, but you should never consider a 1/2 size, at least not to learn on, or as your main instrument. If somebody gifts you a 1/2 size, keep it for fun, but don't get one instead of a 3/4. The double bass is about sound, body, presence, technique, oomph and style. 3/4 gives you the size to grasp of all the above.
    Another good rule of thumb is to develop a facial expression which makes you look like you are listening to what the fiddler has to say, whilst in truth you are thinking about a sandwich....

  6. In my opinion right arm technique is what makes the biggest difference. There are a lot of people out there who have been playing for ages, can master tricky solos and have all the best gear, yet still lack a good acoustic tone simply because they have overlooked the fundamentals. If you spend a lot of time and maybe a little bit of money on getting your basic technique right your volume will go up a lot, along with your playing. Then You can get gear to sound like your head is telling you, but first I'd say get that muscle memory down with lessons and loads of practice. Sorry if you've already thought of that and all the very best with your bluegrass band: have a blast!

  7. Dudi, I an not aware of anyone, but I am pretty sure that would be a very bad idea. The expensive hard cases don't just protect against knocks, but also against the extreme temperature changes that happen between land and ski, then opening the case. As the double bass has 2 huge pieces of wood that expand and contracts with temperature and himidity changes, I would imagine that would cause a big crack...which would only get worse when another 4 suitcases "fall" on to of it. If you fly, the only available options IMO are a proper flight case, a Chadwick, a EUB/Eminence/David Gage or just hire/borrow a bass there (not easy if you not playing a festival or a main city).

  8. Its not a great photo but the width AND the lenght appear inadequate, and that's just with steels so it's gotta be pretty small in real life.
    I'd say get a set of rat tails files and a steady nerve or take it to a luthier who will do it in 30 seconds.

  9. 45kg!!!! Wow I never imagined it would be as heavy as that! I suppose at least it gives you piece of mind and it's certainly a superb piece of kit. For touring I myself have a Chadwick folding bass, which comes with its own hard case. I bought it to avoid the expense and annoyance of hiring a bass abroad and ending up with a poorly setup piece of junk. It's worth every penny IMO although in a rapid twist of fortune, every gig since I bought it has been in the UK and I have been leaving it up and carrying it about in a soft case...Sod's law I guess... I have never seen the G4M semi soft cases in real life. Their guitars and fiddles equivalent seem fine so it may be a good idea. The price at £129 is either a massive bargain or a sign of poor quality, hopefully someone who has it and use it can tell us which...

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