NickA

Helps to have a long scale and hefty strings. My 4/4 bass does drop D fine, drop C ok. A friend's 3/4 goes too loose even on D. Lots of orchestral stuff goes down to C and many people tune CGDG to play it plenty of them on 3/4 basses. It must depend in part on setup. Got to try it and see.

You would be considered eccentric and a bit odd. But if you play all the right notes in all the right places, no-one will give a stinky poo! Anyway almost all of us in amateur orchestras are a bit eccentric and/or odd. ... probs worth learning to play without the stand, gets you wrapped around the bass in a way that promotes a closer partnership between player and instrument. ( See, told you I was a bit odd 🙂 )

Nice sound and another world from my Tanglewood acoustic. Doesn't sound any more like a double bass than a kalu u-bass though. Too twangy? The attack is wrong somehow. And at the size of it, may as well get a double bass .... almost. Still good playing and a very worthy sound of its own ( unlike my Tanglewood)

Absolutely. Borrow £2900. Buy it. Wait 10 years and sell. It'll do better than your pension fund 😉.

Awful. Why would any designer skimp like that if they knew anything about basses. On the other hand, double basses etc have bridges that are just at right angles across the strings and no one worries about it. Just avoid playing chords and no-one will notice 😁

There are several grades. I've a block of their winter rosin that turns to treacle in summer. I guess the summer version is rock hard and dusty in winter. Nyman ... Seems to work all year. But it's mostly technique ... and practice.

You might be bowing too near the bridge. You get more tone from down there but it's much harder to get the note "started". Try just below the end of the fingerboard then progressively closer to the bridge .. you should find a spot that works. Hidersine bass rosin is fine for starters. Nyman is much better but you may not notice the difference until you have your bowing technique sorted a bit. Likewise the strings. I used dAddario helicore hybrids for bow and pluck for years. I don't rate them by today's standards but they bow just fine and were OK for pizz. Their "orchestral" strings bow more easily but pluck like damp spaghetti. I Recently switched to Eva Pirazzi strings and got the bridge raised up a bit; bows even better now, but we're talking £210 for "minimal gains" at beginner level. Stick with it.

That's a pretty basic pickup, I really doubt it was £200. . Single sided shadow? £50? The better ones do both sides of the bridge, go under the bridge or connect to bridge adjusters. Check it doesnt rattle or buzz, it's quite hard to get those bridge wing pickups perfectly installed. Maybe the £200 included the slap peizo and professional fitting. At that price and construction it's not going to sound great acoustically but I guess you can learn where to put your fingers and get some basics together. I'd look around some tho.

Bridge. Do it. I was on the verge of spending £10k on a replacement bass when I spent £500 on new strings and a bridge refitting ( add adjusters and reshape feet). New bass. No way I'd sell it now. Always worth getting the full potential out of the instrument you have.

That will do. Bass bags don't sell any total rubbish. It is always easier to play with a better bow though and there's a world of difference between my £300 one and my £1000 one. Either get over to Derby and try a few at bass bags or get them to send you three or four up to £150 or so. Hold and play with them without looking at the prices... might be the cheapest that you like best. NB the composite bows at the bottom end of the market are not great, best stick with wood.

The route from bridge to nut contains a lot more neck than body...stands to reason that it makes more difference. The neck joint is also important as it's potentially lossy (pedants may also claim the impedance mismatch from neck wood to body wood will change the acoustic qualities).

I had a £450 pallisander wood alto from the early music shop. Sounded lovely but it was never quite in tune and was really hard to get the bottom note out of. Sold intending to get a Rosewood Moek Rottenburgh. Never did. Still have the placky yammy. I'm told the zen-on bressan plastics are very good too.

The Aulos ones are a bit warmer sounding but seem to need a lot of puff. The Yamaha's have a nice narrow air way so use less breath, more like decent wooden recorders ( you have to spend £400 or more to better the yammy imo) though they do clog with spit more than the Aulos. I have one of each knocking about (alto/treble not tenor mind). Go keyed I'd say .. just easier to cover the hole properly.

They dropped that a long time ago. You might have to go back to the pro bass to find a carbon layer. The resonant peak on a Wal is a fixed amount of extra Q from the pull switch. As the acg has an infinitely variable Q, it should be possible to exactly match the Wal. Still, I hardly ever use the pull switches on my Wals ( except when messing about) and can still get that "chorus like" effect. I think that without the pull switch out, the filter is just a regular 2 pole LP fillter. So I guess it's the phase difference between the two pickups that makes that sound. Bear in mind that a lot of those classic 80s Wal sounds were played through a chorus or phaser, so not all the bass.

Worry not, I'm enjoying it too. But my personal solution only cost £850 which was a lot less than I was heading towards in experimentation. Different today.

Until you fret a note! Don't know if the Wal pre is flat. There is nothing in there to boost mids especially, but a bit of input capacitance can interact with pickup inductance to make a big difference to frequency response ( a mid / high bulge followed by a steep higher frequency roll off) and the Wal pre does have a bank of RC before the buffer/coil summation op amp. Net effect is a bass with lots of mids, but short of dismantling one of my basses and slapping an LCR meter on it, don't really know why. My solution to this whole conundrum was ...just buy a Wal!

Outdoors? Unless you put your amp facing right onto the bass, you'd need to play silly loud to get feedback.

..which even on my tinny speakered android tablet tells me that the Wal sounds best. Shall listen again through "the big hifi". Though really that's not a sound I'd try to get out of a Wal ... they being, as you say, quite dark by nature. Beats me why flea would choose one to get a brash twangy noise .. just use the Modulus or a Stingray?

Two basses worth >£5k and one around £2k. Why buy cheap basses when I'm fortunate / got lucky enough to own some posh ones. On the other hand, there are things even a Mk2 Wal will not do ..... an expensive bass sounds like an expensive bass and sometimes a cheap one is what you need .. I guess. Should never have sold the BB2000 that cost me £200, probably the funkiest thing I ever played.

If it's not causing the strings to buzz, just leave it. A little wear improves the sound of a fretless imo. My best fretless did start to buzz (30 years of round wounds) so it went to the original makers for a "shooting"; when it gets that bad it would be hard to fix yourself. The Ebony is now rather thin but if it lasts another 30 years it will see me out.

Neil and I can argue wood Vs carbon till the cows come home! See previous threads 😂 I think he's probably right if you spend enough, but in my budget (£1000 for the bass bow, £1500 for the cello bow) I couldn't find a wood bow I liked as much as the arcus ones. Plus they feel nice, look amazing and are largely indestructible. The arcus bows are as hand made as wooden bows, they lay up the carbon tubes on a former and then grade the resulting sticks from 4 to 9 before fitting them out with hand made frogs and metalwork. I asked the owner, Mr Muesing, what happened to 1 to 3 and the 10 and he said all their sticks are now good enough to be at least grade 4 but they haven't made a 10 yet! An S9 violin bow will cost you £7000, and how THAT compares to bowspeed's finest I really couldn't say. I do note though, that.. it didn't cost them more to make an S9 ( gold trimmings aside ) than an S4 ... you're paying for rarity... so there's his mark up!

The matter now closed by purchase of a nice coda bow. Still.... Imo, the problem with Thwaites, Turner's etc is they don't stock carbon bows, so you can't easily compare them. Reason being, I think, arcus and codabow publish the actual price of actual bows and numerous outlets can sell the exact same article; so the dealers lose the chance of the massive mark ups they can make on "antique" wooden bows. If you can afford a better bow than the really good carbon ones, probably best going to an actual bow maker and buying new, direct from the maker. That or spend a day at bow speed, trying everything and bargaining like mad.

If you coul tap these pickups, do they still humbuck? I think the twin jazz bridge pickup on my Warwick must be two humbuckers in series beacuse it's still silent when tapped... But some won't be ( hence I think, the limited options on an HH Stingray ...it will never allow a single pickup single coiled )