solo4652

Hi, I'm looking for some simple, free songwriting software so I can capyure this flaming song that's rattling round my brain. What are people's recommendations, please? Please remember that I am definitely NOT an IT expert! Steve

Seriously folks - what do we think of this? Seems extraordinarily cheap for such an early bass. Has anybody contacted the seller? Anybody actually seen it?

On my Stingray, I felt I needed a thumbrest, but I didn't want to "spoil" the look of the bass. Because all the knobs and pickguard screws are chrome finish, I bought a chrome-finish mirror-mounting screw and positioned it above the E string. It blends in pretty well with the pearloid scratchplate and could almost pass as a (curiously-sited) extra control knob. I'd be pretty lost without it.

Here you go: [url="http://buy.vivastreet.co.uk/instruments+romford-rm2/vintage-1952-fender-precision-bass-guitar-serial--0289/19818493"]http://buy.vivastreet.co.uk/instruments+ro...--0289/19818493[/url]

Gone already. Just up the road from me, too. I'd have been very tempted at that price.

[quote name='Bottle' post='678925' date='Dec 9 2009, 11:35 AM']Just thought I'd share some thoughts on the Neutrik Silent plugs. Works fine with both of my current passive basses, but I've used a couple of active basses, including an Ibanez ATK305, which was temperamental with the R/A version of the plug, because of the reasons outlined above. I also found that the sleeve didn't always disengage when removed from the bass, resulting in a nasty squealing sound from the amp (urghhh, 'orrible ). Apparently, Neutrik have redesigned the jack so that the sleeve is better now, but YMMV with active basses. I've kinda put my Silent cable out to pasture, I'm using a regular Neutrik R/A plug and rely on my tuner for muting. HTH Ian[/quote] Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Because it's unclear whether the silent lead will work with my basses, and because the silent lead is £20, I've decided to play safe and go for the bog-standard "noisy" cable. Have to make sure I can get at the mute switch on the amp in that case.

I/we were having this problem. With "Fever", the rythm guitarist insisted on playing all the chords, loudly, when the song is basically vocals, bass and some drums. The way we managed to get him to put the guitar down was to put him in charge of organising the figer-clicks from himself and the lead guitarist. We'll need to have a similar discsussion about Stand by me and That's not my name (Ting Tings).

See: [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Fender-Precision-Bass-Guitar_W0QQitemZ160384769751QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV?hash=item2557ad5ed7"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Fender-Precision-Bas...=item2557ad5ed7[/url] I've asked the seller if there's a serial number on the bass. Reply: "Not that I can see".

[quote name='Paul_C' post='677031' date='Dec 7 2009, 07:19 PM']it's telling you that the silent bit won't work with an active bass, and you have two active basses - what's not to to understand ? there is a switchable Planet Waves jack that works - [url="http://www.soundslive.co.uk/product.asp?id=3892"]http://www.soundslive.co.uk/product.asp?id=3892[/url][/quote] Two points in reply: 1. Thanks for the link to the switchable Planet Waves lead. 2. Your comment "...what's not to understand? " is a little curt, I feel. I didn't understand the phrase "bass guitars which have a tip-ring-sleeve tap to activate the power supply". That's why I posted the original question. Steve

Hi, I'm in the market for a silent-jack neutrik instrument lead. I've spotted on on the 'net which comes with this warning: "Please note: The signal will not be muted with active electric bass guitars which have a tip-ring-sleeve tap to activate the power supply." Errrr, what? I have a Stingray and a G&L Tribute, both of which are active. I'm not sure whether this lead will work with these basses. Can anybody enlighten me, please? Steve

[quote name='BOD2' post='671665' date='Dec 1 2009, 10:34 PM']Yes, that would do (it mentions 2-core screened cable in the blurb). The connectors are a bit on the cheap side. This would be better - [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Deluxe-10m-Microphone-XLR-XLR-Cable-Neutrik-Connectors_W0QQitemZ310184576060QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Computing_CablesConnectors_RL?hash=item483871043c"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Deluxe-10m-Microphon...=item483871043c[/url] Anything with "Neutrik" XLR connectors is a better buy as they are much more robust and will outlast cheaper cables. You might be able to find something cheaper, I just did a very quick search.[/quote] Thank you. I was wondering whether "Neutrik" connectors were different again from XLR. You've answered the question. Thanks again, Steve

[quote name='BOD2' post='671650' date='Dec 1 2009, 10:20 PM']An XLR cable has two insulated cores and and braided earth. An instrument cable (i.e. a guitar cable) has a single core and a braided earth. For a balanced connection (XLR) you need the two-core and earth cable, not the instrument cable.[/quote] So, will this do for what I want, please? [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/XLR-to-XLR-Pro-Mic-Cable-Instrument-Lead-9mt-30-Foot_W0QQitemZ390123460288QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Music_Instruments_Microphones_MJ?hash=item5ad52b96c0"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/XLR-to-XLR-Pro-Mic-C...=item5ad52b96c0[/url]

I'm sure this question's been asked umpteen times. Sorry in advance. I need an XLR cable to run between the balanced out socket on my amp to the mixing desk. I'm finding "instrument" cables and "microphone cables". Are they the same? What do I need, please? Steve

I'm shortly to go and have a look at a used Vintage V940 unlined fretless - bubinga body, Wilkinson hardware, new Hiscox case. Like this: [url="http://www.gear4music.com/Guitar-and-Bass/Vintage-V940-Fretless-Bass-Guitar-Natural/5CT"]http://www.gear4music.com/Guitar-and-Bass/...tar-Natural/5CT[/url] This would be a back-up for my fretless Stingray. Harmony Central reviews are pretty good. Anybody got one and can offer some honest comments, please? Thanks, Steve

[quote name='lemmywinks' post='662603' date='Nov 23 2009, 01:08 PM']I'd keep an eye out for a Squier/Vintage/Aria etc. bass cheap on eBay, you can pick these up for around the £50 mark. If you want to sell the neck, tuners and pickups on they'll have a higher value than Johnny Brook parts, Squier for the Fender shaped headstock alone Squier Affinity P-Bass for £50 + p&p here: [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/bass-guitar_W0QQitemZ180435663664QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV?hash=item2a02cdbb30"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/bass-guitar_W0QQitem...=item2a02cdbb30[/url] I bought an Aria Jazz for £45 and it sounded heaps better than the usual budget stuff. I've played a very nice Stagg natural Jazz too[/quote] Blast it! That Squier on Ebay was about 10 miles from my house. Looked a bit too bashed-about though. I'll keep looking...

Ah - well there's a clear consensus emerging here. I'll not be getting a Johhny Brook or a Jay Turser or anything else like that. I'll look out for a Squier. Thank you to everybody for your thoughts. How about an OLP body with a an unlined fretless neck? Do/did OLP make such necks? Steve

You can buy one of these new for £50 [url="http://www.johnnybrook.com/product.aspx?prod=jb100"]http://www.johnnybrook.com/product.aspx?prod=jb100[/url] I'm considering one as the start point for a fretless bass. Buy this, drop in a Mighty Mite unlined fretless neck, add some Tokai pups I have. Any thoughts? Waste of money? Get-what-you-pay-for? Bargain start-point? Steve

Thanks to everybody for their advice. I'll buy a 10m XLR - XLR cable and that should do the trick. Steve

[quote name='derrenleepoole' post='661233' date='Nov 21 2009, 06:37 PM']If you amp has a DI out already, then I'd simply use that. The bass amp could then be run at lower level for backline monitoring for yourself and the drummer, letting the PA do all the volume work.[/quote] Does my combo have a DI out? Here's a picture of the back of the combo: [attachment=36785:002.JPG] Reading the combo's manual suggests that I could use the Line Out socket to connect to a mixer. It also seems that I could use the Balanced Out jack to connect to an external PA, using the Select Switch to dictate whether the output from the combo is changed by the combo's switches/knobs ("Line out") or not ("DI out"). Apparently. So, please correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems that I could take a lead from the Balanced Out jack, with the Select Switch set at "Line out" and that will enable me to put a signal into the mixer that I can control in the usual way with the combo's switches and knobs. Does that sound right, please? Don't laugh - I'm learning. Steve

The band I've just joined is tooling up with a sw***y PA system. It has been suggested that we could place a mic in front of the bass and guitar amps and than feed the signal into the desk. Now, I know nothing about PA systems, mics, signal processing etc, but it occured to me that a DI box might be a neater solution. But I don't know what I'm talking about. So, instead of micing the guitar amps with free-standing mics, could a bass or a guitar be fed into a DI box which then splits the signal into amp-feed and also desk-feed? Don't laugh, I'm learning.... Steve

[quote name='ianrunci' post='656816' date='Nov 17 2009, 11:37 AM']I did my own. Plastic wood, some wet and dry and a tin of stain. Turned out a treat. Although it was soon showing signs of wear as I was using roundwounds on it[/quote] I'd never trust myself to do that - I'd make a total mess of it!

[url="http://www.gumtree.com/london/64/48028064.html"]http://www.gumtree.com/london/64/48028064.html[/url]

I asked a local guitar tech. for a quote for de-fretting my G&L (maple f/board). The reply was: "Hi Steve, I'm not sure it's a good idea to have a fretless with a lacquered (or even unlacquered) maple board. I think it would soon be marked by the strings." Oh. That's plan D scuppered, then. So, it's either buy a Mighty Mite fretless neck for the G&L and hope it can be made to fit, or give up and simply buy a fretless bass. Or just play my fretless 'Ray to death. Steve