nugget

tone comes 50% from pickups, 20% from strings,20% from technique, and 10% from the actual bass - go for the nordies in the acg

[quote name='TRBboy' timestamp='1322774995' post='1455864'] Was great to meet everyone, sorry I wasn't very chatty, I didn't feel 100%. It would have been good to have more there, but hopefully next time there will be! [/quote] You played great and sounded amazing, loved the tone of the sandbergs + markbass rig. Never tried markbass before but it sounded so smooth, I thought they would be more 'hi-fi' - i guess they could be but i liked the thicker sound you got out of it See ya there next time

Hi Ian Welcome to the friendliest forum around £100 is more than enough for a home practice amp. It's nearly enough to get a gigging amp! Check out the for sale section, there are quite few good practice amps around for less than £50 which will work fine for home use. Get practicing and find a band then scrape together £200 for a good gigging amp rather than getting something too cheap you wont wanna gig with. Stuff here does seem quite a bit cheeper that ebay, plus MOST here wont rip you off with crap.

[quote name='Ian Savage' timestamp='1322643008' post='1453748'] [/quote] having a twang on that tele has made troll through ebay for one, xmas present for myself !! Roll on next year's West Mids Bass Bash 2

[quote name='Nibody' timestamp='1322591841' post='1453305'] You could try Wizard. My mates cousin (Wez Venables) gets all his made for his builds by Knucklebones. [/quote] Wizard wont even do a 5 string P (well wouldnt 6 months ago)

Hi - can anyone recommend a custom pickup maker, preferably on the cheap side!!! not looking for typical 'custom' winding but a different shape/size Ta Dave

[quote name='Ian Savage' timestamp='1322478554' post='1451165'] My head hurts [/quote] Ha ha...... Had lot of fun yesterday. GREAT bunch, typical Basschat nice guys with no egos. TRBboys Markbass stuff had me looking in the amps for sale.... Great to have a few that could play drums and guitar as well as bass allowing for some fun jamming to the standards. Sounded good (most of the time) !!!! The video didnt turn out too good (crap phone) but I might post it or keep it for blackmail purposes I forgot to pay for the room - who wants me to send money to them So here's the all star band Seashell and TRBboy on bass Yorkic on drums Ian on guitar [attachment=94091:IMG00235.JPG]

Just in case everyone needs to know what TRBboy looks like now...this was taken this morning [IMG]http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd380/firecreekCustom/JR.jpg[/IMG]

[quote name='TRBboy' timestamp='1322067954' post='1446160'] Alright for some! I've got about a 1 1/2 hour drive home, so no chance of me drinking! I'll have to make do with a shandy..... [/quote] Good job too - load of beer and then going to guitarguitar/PMT isn't a good mix

Routing it down is pretty simple You need a flat surface, lets say the wood is 2" and you want to get down to 1.5". put the 2" thick wood on flat surface, then put 2 thinner (1") strips of scrap wood either side of that then put thicker wood (3") either side of that (the outer pieces need to be the same thichness)and clamp it all together tight. You end up with the outer edges higher than the rest. Get a flat piece of thin (3/4"), but strong enough not to flex, wood (could by ply or any old crap) which is twice as long as the width of the clamped together pieces of wood and bolt the router on top of that wood in the middle with a hole for the bit to come through. use countersunk screws so the heads sit inside the bottom of the wood. Then rest the router onto the outer higher pieces of the clamped together wood, the router will now slide on the outer high bits. As long as the outer bits are the same thickness and the worksurface is flat the router will be running approx parallel to the bottom face of the body wood. Lower the router bit till it touches the highest part of the body wood (with the router not running) and then that will be the reference point. move the router bit to the space between the body wood and the higher outer bits of wood (over the 1" strips) and lower the bit to say 2mm lower and then carefully run the router in straight lines all over the body wood. It takes a bit of time DONT cut too much at once. The thinner 1" bits of wood allow you to move the router bit off the end of the body wood without catching on the higher 3" pieces. AVOID running the router bit into the higher edges as it will cause the router to kick . I'm sure there are easier ways and quicker ways (without spending a fortune on a huge planer thicknesser) but as long as you're carefull and have a little time it does work! Make sure the bottom of the body wood is flat on the worksurface else the top wont be parallel, make sure it's all clamped together tight and clamped firmly to work surface. If you're gonna do a few of these make the jig a bit more permanent. I made one out of unistrut (stolen from work) which works a treat and is fully adjustable for width and hight. I hope that makes sense - it's hard to explain. Dave Ou7shined - Sorry I was refering to a cheap thichnesser capable of only doing 2 or 3 piece bodies, not a semi-pro level one. I got a good 2nd hand PT 8" max width for £80 with a stand and two new sets of blades. Perfectly good for the amount I use it. Set it up right and it cuts cleanly and perectly square, only cuts 2mm max but I'm in no rush.

Mr letts is right you could pick up a cheap Plannnnner/thicknesser for the cost of return postage, and have a new toy to play with. If the wood is as wide as a body you will need to find someone with an f'ing big planer or make a jig for the router (pretty easy to do) If the wood isnt glued and is a 2 or 3 piece body then most hobby builders could do that quick an easy. What size is the wood, what pup cavities and do you know where you want the control cavity and the size of it??

well.....mmmmmmm.......well.....errr.....mmmm......NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Had a big problem, sprayed it all up ready for the final coat and was looking very nice, rubbed it flat, new can of spray and straight away the new can (exactly the same laquer but new can) bubbled the base coats and screwed the whole F'ing Jeffing lot up !!! I was NOT HAPPY. Called the manufacturers who were kind enough to offer to replace the one faulty can, i think i taught them some new swear words. I hope they didnt record the call as I offered to firebomb their stores to make sure the faulty batch was delt with as I wasnt the only person to complain with the same problem. Wrong chemical mix. So rubbed it all back to plain wood and started all over. The top is ready for the top coat and the back neads a couple more base coats before top coat. Wont be dry enough to rub down for this weekends west mids bash which was the original plan Should be dry enough to handle but will look a tad rough till its flatted down properly. I might still bring it along and hide it in the corner in a case. 2-3 weeks till it's finished now Ta Dave

[quote name='lettsguitars' timestamp='1321813936' post='1443391'] Planned? Right question though. [/quote] Well - It's Sunday....

How wide is the wood to be planned?

PM'd - I really need a preamp for my backup bass......

Not long to go now....bump....

[quote name='bremen' timestamp='1321350609' post='1437995'] I'm going to buy one just because Murmac is eloquent and witty and it's one way of buying him a pint. [/quote] I did !!!!!

[quote name='TRBboy' timestamp='1321119190' post='1435599'] Ok, i'll sort them out! Is that thinline P going to be ready Dave? I'm itching to get my hands on it! [/quote] mmm....fingers crossed, the laquer isn't drying very quick in this weather (bit warmer today).... probably wont get top coat on till next weeked only leaving one week to dry and polish up...

[quote name='TRBboy' timestamp='1320962168' post='1433915'] Looking forward to it! Just debating whether to re-string my basses. They're not completely dead, but......... [/quote] YES - I wanna hear those Sandyberg basses of yours in full glory......

[quote name='charic' timestamp='1321016080' post='1434373'] Lovely stuff, I'm in two minds about the headstock though [/quote] mmm....agreed with the comments on the headstock, I prefer something a little more traditional

[quote name='Rumple' timestamp='1321015526' post='1434362'] Wow! that's some beautiful wood, I really love the neck it's similar to something Roscoe do and give me an idea for yet another build [/quote] Neck / Fretboard was gorgeous, didnt flex any more than typical 1/4sawn maple etc only a little tweek on the truss rod! The supplier I got the timber from still has one more 6ft plank of that rio rosewood left - I might raide the bank and get the rest!!!

[quote name='Rumple' timestamp='1320999910' post='1434117'] Have you got more pics? [/quote] Dont wanna fill up your thread with pix of other basses... There are some here [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/133877-firecreek-5-string/"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/133877-firecreek-5-string/[/url] Ta Dave

Fretboard is Rio Rosewood, half heartwood half sapwood - from the same stock as body Lawrence is seriously good - it's gonna be a goodie for sure... Dave

love the scratchplate design - keep us updated with pix.......