I've had some questions PM'd to me, so for the benefit of anyone who is interested, here they are with my answers:
[b][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]1. It looks like there is engraved swirling on neck plate of the bass-whats that about it can't be original is it?[/font][/color][/b]
[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Yes it does look like swirling on the neck plate, but it's not - it's just a reflection of the grass in my garden! I have attached an indoor photo taken just now, and you can see the only marking on the neck plate is the stamped G&L logo.[/font][/color]
[b][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]2. Why block up the holes with screws?[/font][/color][/b]
[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]The bass is designed for both top-stringing and through-body stringing. I use flats exclusively, and I didn't want to subject them to the severe break angles that through-body stringing can cause, so I went for top-loading. BC-er Neepheid put me onto [/font][/color][url="http://www.bassesbyleo.com/l2500_bridge_mod.html"]this link[/url][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif] warning of the possibility of the 2 bridge screws pulling out of the wood, so I fitted the machine screws. Their purpose is not to block off the holes, but to ensure that the bridge remains firmly attached.[/font][/color]
[b][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]3. How come it needed a shim and you haven't tried the truss rod?[/font][/color][/b]
[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Although I set up my own guitars and basses, I am no expert. It looked to me that the neck had the right amount of relief in it, but I couldn't get the action low enough for my light touch, hence the shim. An expert could probably do a much better job![/font][/color]
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