JapanAxe
-
Posts
5,566 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Shop
Articles
Everything posted by JapanAxe
-
[size=6][b]HELP! RUN AWAY![/b][/size]
-
[quote name='Kevin Dean' timestamp='1460413485' post='3025601'] I think it's just because The drummer was sat right next to my cab , I was stood right in front of His kick drum & the balance sounded ok to me . The main trouble we had was that we were in a tiny corner of the pub & punters still expected to hear us around a corner & even in another room . [/quote] Yep, been there. Not necessarily the same pub, mind!
-
G&L arguably represented the pinnacle of Leo Fender's R&D. If you imagine a Music Man pickup mounted on a Precision body, you are some of the way to describing this bass. This is a fairly macho instrument - it feels and sounds big and beefy, although it only weighs [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]4.33kg / 9lb8½oz. The neck is 44mm wide at the nut and 60mm at the 12th fret. String spacing (centre to centre) at the bridge is 17mm. [/font][/color][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]I have fitted a small shim in the neck pocket to get the action I desired. The current setup is a bit of a compromise - it is quite low, but consequently the B string frets out above about the 15th fret (I never play it that high up!)[/font][/color] [u]Hardware[/u] Once adjusted for action and intonation, the bridge is locked in place with an allen screw on the treble side. The strings can be loaded through the body or through the back of the bridge. As the bridge is secured by only 2 large screws, I made a reversible mod that Nepheid of this parish directed me to: I have fitted 5 machine screws into the through-body holes, secured with nuts and washers that sit flush in the ferrules on the rear. They are easily removed if you want to string through-body. The tuners work without issues. I have never tried adjusting the truss rod. [u]Electronics[/u] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]The bass sports one monstrous MFD (magnetic field design) pickup with adjustable pole pieces, a volume control, and passive treble and bass controls. There are also 2 switches: one selects series or parallel coils in the pickup; the other brings in the active circuit, which effectively takes the sound of the bass from vintage to modern. Current draw for the circuit is incredibly low - my batteries go out of date rather than running flat![/font][/color] [u][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Sounds[/font][/color][/u] The overall tonality is fat and authoritative, with a lot of presence. It is currently strung with flats (D'Addario Chromes) and there is no shortage of top end. [u]Condition[/u] Well looked after, but there are a couple of noticeable large dings in the black paint finish. [u]Reason for sale[/u][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][color=#282828] [/color][/font] [font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][color=#282828]Despite my best intentions, I have only gigged this bass twice in 3 years. I [s]like[/s] love Precisions, so it would make more sense to have another one sitting in my rack [/color][/font] [u]Price[/u] I am looking for [b]£795[/b]. [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Collection or meet-up preferred, or I may be able to arrange insured delivery at cost.[/font][/color] [u][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Trades[/font][/color][/u] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Guitar - Les Paul Junior or Custom, preferably double-cut in TV Yellow or red stain, or quality equivalent (eg Collings DC290)[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Bass - Fender Precision '57 reissue, or possibly Nate Mendel P or cheaper 'bitsa'[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]- with cash either way, depending on model or condition [/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Please PM any trade suggestions, even if not listed above - I can only say no![/font][/color] [u]Pics[/u] -
We need to see what you're starting with...
-
[quote name='pfretrock' timestamp='1460376235' post='3025073'] Has anyone tried rewiring a standard split coil P bass pickup to parallel? [/quote] You would have to break the wire connecting the 2 coils, but it would give you a 'lite' option. Can't really think why you would want to do this though - you can't improve on perfection!
-
I have never used reverb on a bass live, but when I had a Korg Pandora there was a very useful small room reverb which made the bass sound less dead through headphones.
-
We need to know about the HEFT!
-
[quote name='pfretrock' timestamp='1460359917' post='3024858'] Nice result. It was not the 22k that was killing the tone, but the inductance of the two coils are added together when in series. By putting then in parallel, you have halved the inductance and thereby increased treble response. They are now wired 'out of phase' in parallel, so maintaining the conditions for humbuck. Never understood why these are wired in series ever. I think you've given me a clue why my Telebass with a neck pickup sounds dreadful - I need to investigate the wiring in there, I bet they are in series. [/quote] They are indeed in series on a Tele Bass. There was a thread about this, either on Talkbass or the Gear Page.
-
I've had my Pawn Shop Mustang a couple of years now, and I haven't gigged it that much. The humbucker has a DC resistance in excess of 22k(!) - shedloads of volume, but needs some fierce EQ to bring out any top at all, especially with flats (ahem). I was looking into getting a new scratchplate and pickups, to convert it to standard reissue spec, but then I thought, why not try converting the humbucker from series connection to parallel. I knew it had 4-conductor wiring, so I looked up the existing threads on t'interweb and gave it a go. As supplied, the green wire is hot (goes to the 'top' of the volume pot), the black is ground (via volume pot case), and the red and white wires are joined together inside a length of heat-shrink: I removed the heat-shrink and disconnected the red and white wires. Using my test meter I worked out that the red and green wires came from one coil, and the white and black from the other. I soldered the red wire to the pot case, and the white wire to where the green connected to the pot, and the job was done. The output is still quite pokey, but much better balanced, with some usable treble content. As a bonus, the tone pot has a much more useful range, whereas previously it started ditching mids when rolled right off. Cost: less than 1p (I used a bit of solder and some electricity) Value: very worthwhile Result!
-
The guitarist in my country band plays with flats on his Ibanez semi - very sweet sounding.
-
[quote name='Schnozzalee' timestamp='1459602397' post='3017994'] I've had one strat where I could use the bridge single coil and that was on an old G&L, so all my strats now have a humbucker there. Still the best guitar. [/quote] A decent bridge pickup sound is quite a good test of Strat. Not surprised about the G&L - they are somewhat different guitars to their Fender 'equivalents'.
-
I don't love Jazz basses, except the '73 I tried that a friend owns. Several things I shouldn't like about it (sunburst, block inlays, bound neck, and, er, it's a Jazz), but it sounds great. So yes, I do accept that a Jazz can be good.
-
I have owned and gigged this USA-built PRS McCarty gold-top since 2010. The serial number identifies it as a 1999. Production of these ceased in 2007. Description as follows: [u]Body[/u] Double cutaway Mahogany back (1/8in thicker than the Custom etc) East coast maple top in gold finish [u]Neck[/u] Set neck Rosewood fretboard Wide-fat profile 22 frets 25in scale length Phases-of-the-moon dot inlays - no ostentatious falling birds here! [u]Hardware[/u] Wrap-around bridge Vintage-style tuners [u]Electronics[/u] 2x Seymour Duncan soap-bar single coils (hum-cancelling when both selected) 3-way toggle selector switch 1x volume, 1x tone control Comes with fitted hard case (a standard Strat-type case is not a good fit). [u]Sounds[/u] The basic sound of this guitar is spanky single-coil, but with plenty of underlying fatness. Roll back the tone control, and you are into Gibson territory. This is one supremely versatile guitar, and by far the loudest that I own! [u]Modifications[/u] I have fitted a treble bleed circuit (1nF Orange Drop cap in parallel with 150k resistor) and it now retains brightness as you roll back the volume control. The original side dot markers are all but invisible under stage lighting, so I have applied rub-down white dots. If you don't like these, you can easily remove them with the edge of a credit card. [u]Condition[/u] Plenty of wear left in the frets. Currently strung with 9-46 Ernie Ball Slinky strings. Action is set low to my taste. There are some dings on the neck and body, which I have tried to show in the pictures. In particular there is a spot on the upper edge where a chunk of finish has been crunched, but it seems to have been filled in with clear lacquer so that it can barely be felt. There is also a dent in the bass side of the neck between the 15th and 16th frets, but this has never affected playability. [u]Reason for sale[/u] Need to replace the kidney I sold to buy a pre-CBS Precision... Only joking! I operate a strict 1-in-1-out policy, and I have a hankering for a Les Paul Junior or similar. Where I would have used this guitar on a gig, I am now using a Tele and a Gibson (which should give you a clue as to its versatility! [u]Price[/u] Looking for [b][s]£1,100[/s] [color=#0000cd][size=5]£995[/size][/color][/b]. Collection or meet-up preferred, or I can arrange insured delivery at cost. [u]Trades[/u] Guitar - Les Paul Junior or Custom, preferably double-cut in TV Yellow or red stain, or quality equivalent (eg Collings DC290) [s]Bass - Fender Precision '57 reissue, or possibly Nate Mendel P or cheaper 'bitsa'[/s] - with cash either way, depending on model or condition Please PM any trade suggestions, even if not listed above - I can only say no! [u]Pics[/u] -
Eastwood are far-East-made recreations of old budget brands, so you get the cool looks with (presumably) modern build quality and playability. Having said that, I don't think I have ever played one (guitar or bass), but that would be the first thing to do.
-
Disclaimer: I don't like graphics! Actually that would work for me - peaks in the lower mids and the presence band.
-
An idea of your budget would help.
-
[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1460226915' post='3023894'] Not yet, but it's next up. I'm going to order it in around two or three weeks. [/quote] Delivery in time for Christmas then. Sorry but I know from experience that the wait is agony!
-
Brian Eno famously said that, with music, you can crash and burn and still walk away. Well done for going for it - any preparation you put in beforehand will be time well spent, and the experience you get playing with other musicians just can't be bought. All good!
-
Glad you found one that works for you! Phasers are a bit like ice cream flavours - we all have our favourites. At one stage I had about 7 phaser pedals, now I have just the one.
-
Fartke LH500 Oh, wait, I think that name might be taken...
-
Subscribed!
-
I have used one a few times at a jam (60W model possibly). No amount of amp modelling and effects can disguise the underlying tone, which to my ear is hideous. Then again I am spoiled (see signature below).
-
Is the market for older instruments in decline?
JapanAxe replied to karlfer's topic in General Discussion
For a fe months last year I was watching (early) 60s Precisions with a view to a buy, and I think there has been a slight decline in asking price, on BC at least. In the end I bought a reissue. -
My Compact is pretty darn good, but it's not officially 'Super'. So now I have Super Compact envy - D'oh!
-
Just realised it also colour-coordinates with my Rokit studio monitors!