JapanAxe

That is indeed one of the early models, with 'Electromatic' across the top of the headstock, and 'Gretsch' on the truss cover. Later/current models have 'Gretsch' across the top, and 'ELECTROMATIC' running down the centre of the headstock. I seem to recall early Electromatic hollow-bodies were made by Peerless, but I don't know if that was also true of the basses.

[quote name='ambugatone' timestamp='1398177413' post='2431221'] Yes, ideal is self locking screw (with rubbery extended top) screwed on top of the oroginal one. Nothing will move it. Normal one should do the trick too. [/quote] Yep, they're known as 'stiff nuts' or 'ny-nuts' (because of the nylon insert). I think I have some in my bits box, just need to find one with the right thread.

[quote name='Iheartreverb' timestamp='1398171281' post='2431121'] ... £15 Bahrain pedal... [/quote] Spot the unwanted spell check!

[quote name='ambugatone' timestamp='1398169867' post='2431090'] Issues when I bought it: Big Transformer loose - added one more screw to keep it locked in Revalve, I used mixed valves and switched positions a lot, JJ, Sovtek, Tungsol [/quote] Excellent idea for the transformer, ambugatone I assume you mean a second nut to use as a 'lock nut', this would prevent the nut from working loose due to vibration. I will also be swapping the 12AX7 valves around to get the best performance.

[quote name='goingdownslow' timestamp='1398116142' post='2430703'] Nice one. Hope you enjoy the amp as much as I do mine. [/quote] Yes, looking forward to gigging it now

Well I did it and surprise surprise, the amp was biased very cold. Initial readings in mV across the source resistors, looking at them from the front of amp: 5.1 - 3.9 5.1 - 2.1 4.8 - 8.2 [b]5.6[/b] - 7.1 Average = 5.24 I clipped my DMM leads to the resistor whose reading is shown in bold (just above the average reading) and gently turned the trim-pot until it read close to 25mV, then took the readings: 23.6 - 20.9 25.2 - 14.7 22.5 - 33.7 23.6 - 30.6 Average = 24.4 So far so good, no readings over 37.5mV (i.e. 25mV + 50%) I connected a speaker, plugged in a bass, and lo and behold, no muddy distortion. For good measure I turned off, disconnected the speaker and bass, turned the amp on, and took the readings again: 24.3 - 21.4 24.8 - 14.7 22.9 - 35.8 24.9 - 31.2 Average = 25.0 I'm not sure why they've all gone up a bit, but that trim pot barely needed touching! I also tightened down the transformer (11mm Halfords socket did the trick), but looking at the construction of the amp I think the fan can wait for another day! I'm still going to order a balanced 12AU7 from Hot Rox, then all should be well Here's some pics: General view of the interior with heatsink channel roughly centre rear, MOSFETs either side, source resistors along the bottom - The notorious blue trimpot - Preamp valves - Driver valves - 12AU7 is nearest the camera - Mid frequency selector (green body) next to tapped inductor

[quote name='Jonesy64' timestamp='1398109334' post='2430597'] I've been looking around for padded bags and cases but haven't been able to find one that fits so far. Had you already tracked down the right sized rack bag? [/quote] Forgot to mention, the ones I've seen don't seem to have enough room to accommodate the big grab handles on the front of the amp.

[quote name='Jonesy64' timestamp='1398107677' post='2430576'] What are you carrying your 3 Pro's around in.....rack case, flight case, padded bag? [/quote] I had thought about a padded rack bag (for transport only) but I'm probably going to use the foam-padded box that came with my Pedaltrain 2, as I only use the pedalboard with geetar, not bass.

I'm not going to argue with cliffyspliff, as that's the Classic 450 head that he just bought from me! I would still have it except for the fact that I can barely justify having 3 bass heads, let alone 4! Sean, glad you're enjoying it mate. It worked for me and I'm pleased it's working for you

My questions and comments about your setup were inspired by an idea that crossed my mind, namely whether my Bose L1 setup (accompanied by me ) would suit your requirements. Feel free to PM me if you wish to discuss this option.

[quote name='moonbass' timestamp='1398037383' post='2429834'] Can I get SVT3 owners thoughts on the Tube Drive control? As people say, it does run counter-intuitively in that it is supposed to be more 'tubey' turning anticlockwise, but really all mine seems to do is make the volume quieter and slightly more dull! I'm certainly not complaining, as the head sounds generally valvey anyway, but wondered if it's something wrong with my head? I've had it serviced and new valves (and biased) but it's just the same. Anybody else find it useful knob? Also, while I'm at it, I tend to run the gain so that the peak LED comes on nearly all the time. It doesn't distort unpleasantly, in fact it sounds great, but am I damaging the head or shortening the valve lifespan by doing this? A. [/quote] The 'Tube Gain' control adjusts the plate voltage of the driver valves. Fully clockwise they are getting the highest plate voltage, so you have maximum headroom. At 0 the plate voltage is at its lowest. This will make little difference at home practice levels, but as you increase the overall volume you should start to hear some compression or overdrive. My advice would be to set this control where it sounds best to you and then leave it! Regarding the peak LED, this relates to the signal level coming out of the preamp. It's hard to see how you could do any damage by making this light up. Loads of amps are set up to intentionally overdrive preamp valves. If it sounds good, do it.

I don't think you're supposed to link to your own eBay listings, but I suggest considering the following:[list=1] [*]What did it cost you, and how long ago was that? You are probably looking at 50-60% of that figure tops, unless it's 'now considered vintage/collectable/desirable. [*]Log into eBay and do a search for your bass, then select 'Completed Listings' - what prices did they sell for (green figures), what asking prices didn't sell (red figures) - aim for a figure in between. [*]What are people asking for the same or similar basses on Basschat? By all means ask for that but be prepared to be haggled down - buyers generally expect this, and expect that you will expect it too! [*]Have a look on prepal.com to see if your bass is listed, and whether its value is rising or falling. [*]Ask yourself - what would I be happy getting for this, and how low would the price go before you would rather keep it? [/list] If I have stated the obvious then at least no-one has been killed or injured!

Admit it, you're just being awkward now aren't you?

I believe andyonbass got one for his daughter recently. Andy?

[quote name='Handwired' timestamp='1397995024' post='2429282'] It's a common misconception that SVT 3 Pro's are under powered, the're not! the problem is the added graphic, there's additional headroom built in so you can switch it in so a boost is available, to use it like a conventional amp and get full power, switch in the graphic, move all the sliders fully up and eq as normal with the rotary controls. [/quote] Even with the graphic flat there is 10dB of boost available from the level slider.

If it's a small social club, you probably only need to put vocals through the PA, plus any keys or acoustic instruments if they don't have dedicated backline amps. What is your full line-up, and what backline are you using?

[quote name='RhysP' timestamp='1397997450' post='2429323'] I'm sure they'll find a ready market with the irritating hipster crowd - if ukeleles can become popular then it proves that some people really will buy any old sh*t. [/quote]

For me, the pre on my amp sets the basic sound range, and the controls on the bass (whether active or passive) allow me to operate within that range. If a particular preamp gives you something you can't otherwise get, then go for it, but there is a risk of ending up with a very lumpy response that may sound fine soloed, but fails to find its place in a band mix.

[quote name='goingdownslow' timestamp='1397984575' post='2429125'] Yes. I set it myself giving the pot slightest turn and checking the mV each time with a mutimeter. At one stage I had 40mV, so shows how sensitive the pot is. My 3Pro had a sizzle from new, could only hear it at low volume, I thought it was part of the sound till I read the posts on [url="http://www.talkbass.com/threads/svt3pro-bias-setting.437406/"]HERE[/url]. I hesitated for a while before doing it as I wasn't sure if I was going down the right track as it being a new (USA) amp I didn't think it would be the bias, then I thought no harm in checking the voltages. I was surprised but chuffed at what readings I found, knowing then that this was the cause. Armed with a small screwdriver and being wary of what I had read about the pot being sensitive I took my time. Did it with amp cold with no signal and no load on. I stopped when I got the average reading as posted above as I thought it being close enough, set the amp on my cab plugged in bass and the amp was clean as a whistle, and with what I thought was more punch on gigs. Reading up the SVT Bias threads on TB gave me the confidence to have a go. It is also possible that a batch had been set wrong at the factory as it hard to think that it drifted that far out. Good luck with whatever you do. Edited to say, whatever others have posted, I turned the pot clockwise to increase the voltage. [/quote] Huge thanks again Pete, particularly on the bias pot direction. I have read some 3 Pro bias threads on Talkbass, but not the one you linked. As you say, it costs nothing for me to check those voltages. I have an electronics-savvy mate with a signal generator and an oscilloscope, so I may well draft him in if it seems like bias adjustments are needed. If that bit ain't broke then I won't try to fix it, but there is also the option of fitting a multi-turn bias pot that is easier to set accurately, and less prone to drift through vibration etc. [quote name='kennyrodg' timestamp='1397985951' post='2429145'] I could here the fizz on my 3 at all volumes, moreso when quiet but it was still there when it was cranked. Having the bias done sorted it out and the amp sounded sweet after that. I never had any problems with it not being loud enough either. [/quote] OK that puts bias well and truly ahead in the running as a possible issue. Enough waffle from me, off to the amp and multi-meter!

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