JapanAxe
-
Posts
5,761 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Shop
Articles
Everything posted by JapanAxe
-
Rock’n’roll in a nice suburban pub. All went well until I was asked to sing a song the guitarist didn’t know. I had set up the singer’s spare guitar via a pedal into the PA, which gave a barely acceptable sound. But a combination of no bass, unfamiliar guitar, and out-of-tune 2nd guitar from the singer made for a performance I found excruciatingly embarrassing. I won’t be doing that again!
-
Plenty here who own and play Dingwalls, myself included. I live in the ‘real world’ of gigs in pubs, clubs and hotels. Mine is a PZ5 and I use it on any gigs where a 5-string is called for (and often when it’s not). For me that encompasses pop, rock, soul, and disco. It is basically a Precision at heart, with the tonal range that you would expect. I can’t speak to the preamp as mine is passive. The spread of scale length (32in high G to 35in low B) works well and improves string balance, and I have had no problems using standard long-scale (34in) string sets. I have little interest in metal, clangy or otherwise. PRS guitars are also popular among metal players, but they are by no means ‘metal’ instruments, and neither are Dingwalls.
-
I have built a few pedals (and indeed a few amps!) but it has never occurred to me to try a multi fx, other than perhaps housing the innards of 3 or 4 pedals in a single mahoosive enclosure. The whole digital thing is well outside my comfort zone as a builder. I don’t know any programming but I seem to recall there are some people here who do. I currently own one (1) bass-specific pedal, which I use as a recording preamp or silent stage solution so I’m not at the front of the queue of people dreaming of bass multi fx. In the past I have used overdrive, phasing, and envelope filter on bass, but the one bass effect I miss is the PWM synth sound on my old Boss ME-8B - do you reckon you can replicate that with decent tracking?
-
Bumpa-lumpa -
Subdecay Vagabond sold elsewhere. Dazatronyx Optical Tremolo still available. -
Deep thumpin' bumpin'!
-
Some reasons I have left bands (in no particular order): Really didn’t enjoy the gigs; Only joined as a dep while they looked for someone permanent, had to remind them of this; Joined another band; Got fed up carting most of the PA around. Times I have regretted moving on: 0
-
Bumperooney! There would actually be no harm in interested parties suggesting trades, although the chances of coming in with something suitable could be somewhat remote.
-
I came to bass from guitar and brought with me the idea that more than one pickup had to be a good thing. I worked my way through various 2-pickup basses until I tried and bought a MIJ Precision. Ps have been home ever since, they just work for me. Also since then I have had my ears opened to the joys of a single-pickup skinny-string in the form of a Les Paul Junior.
-
VPF is anathema to me. VLE is redundant - that’s what passive tone controls are for.
-
I’m sorry but this thread is making me feel quite nauseous. Single coil pickup mounted right next to the bridge? It’s a BASS guitar goddammit! *shuffles off clutching well-worn Precision, disturbing small birds nesting in beard* Hope you love it @Beedster!
-
Behringer Super Fuzz, typically £20-£25. 2 flavours of fuzz plus clean boost, with 2-band EQ.
-
Presumably you have a sound in your head that you’re trying to get with the equipment you have. Obviously we’re not party to what goes on in your head, but a few points of reference could help - songs, artists, or even genres where that sound can be heard.
-
Do not bring that bass again... please
JapanAxe replied to javi_bassist's topic in General Discussion
I’ve been the guitarist who was apparently playing too loud, except the person saying so was hearing the bass. I also once told myself not to buy a Dingwall because it wouldn’t look ‘right’ in a country band. -
One of us! One of us!
-
I re-capped and re-valved a friend’s Sound City PA head last year. I can’t say I was over-impressed with the build quality. I seem to recall them being nicknamed ‘Sounds Sh!tty’ but I think that was unfair, it sounded fine.
-
Having recently acquired a Walrus Monument I am reluctantly having to clear some space on my pedal shelf. Consequently the following analog tremolo pedals are up for sale (no trades thanks): (1) Subdecay Vagabond Offers the choice of Harmonic mode (think brown-panel Fender) or Bias (i.e. amplitude - think black-panel Fender). As well as the usual Speed and Intensity Controls there is Volume (boost or cut) and Drift. The latter either slows down or speeds up the tremolo rate according to the strength of the input signal. The emphasis here is on amp-style tremolo rather than trying to imitate a Univibe! The Intensity control is very powerful, making the pedal capable of everything from subtle wavering to full-on stutter. Switching is mechanical true bypass, and the status LED flashes in time with the LFO when engaged. Operates from 9-18V DC via a standard Boss-type power adaptor (no battery option). In excellent condition, boxed with user guide. There is hook velcro on the base but I can remove this and fit small non-slip rubber feet if you prefer. £125 posted in the UK. (2) Dazatronyx Optical Tremolo As far as I know, a unique design, hand-built in Australia. You don't see many over here. Controls for Rate, Tuning, and Boost. Tuning is kind of like depth but also affects the overall volume, and you the compensate with the Boost to taste. I can't find this exact pedal online - as far as I can tell it is the same circuit as the original big-box versions (see video below), rather than the later small-box model (which features a flashing LED). Mechanical true bypass switching. Operates from a standard 9V boss-style adaptor or a PP3 battery. In excellent condition, and just look at that artwork! No box. No velcro, and I will supply a set of rubber feet so that you have that option. £85 posted in the UK.
-
This Trace Elliot ELF never ceases to amaze me!!!!
JapanAxe replied to Mike Bungo's topic in Amps and Cabs
Elf on the shelf? -
Tbh that’s not something I’d want on an amp - too much choice for my liking!
-
The 19inch width includes the rack mounting brackets. The enclosure itself is 42cm/16½in wide, and the outside dimensions across the rubber feet are 39cm/15¼in, so it could sit firmly on a cab of the latter width with only a small overhang either side.
-
Deps - What format do you prefer material to be given in?
JapanAxe replied to Auctioneer's topic in General Discussion
My preference is for parts in standard notation, with chord symbols, in PDFs. I can then import them into ForScore on my iPad. It’s pretty rare for this to happen though. More often I get a set list with keys and then transcribe any numbers I don’t already know using Sibelius First, or if I’m lucky I might find a decent transcription online (e.g. tomreadbass.co.uk). -
Buying from China on eBay - not in Global Shipping Programme
JapanAxe replied to JapanAxe's topic in General Discussion
I see what you did there. Actually 9 days. -
That actually causes a different problem but I can’t remember what it is. Cathode stripping in guitar amps is a myth that has been propagated since at least the dawn of the Internet. EDIT: I looked this up and when a cathode is heated but no anode current flows for a long period of time (several hours?), a high-resistance chemical layer can grow between the cathode and its oxide coating. This is known as cathode poisoning. Incidentally, 2 of my 3 gigging valve guitar amps have no standby. The first thing I do when I walk on stage is switch on the amp's power, and by the time I have checked my tuning and pedal settings it is ready to play.
-
I set up the breadboard with the make-before-break (shorting) switch and the new cap values. Somewhat disappointed that there is still a click when switching values, and wondering how Stellartone get round this. I've also worked out a way to connect all but the biggest cap between the switch lugs rather than to ground, adding one cap at once in series to reduce the overall capacitance at each detent of the rotary - not sure whether that would be less clicky. I'll spend a bit more time playing with it before I decide whether to try this in my Dingwall or just stick with the traditional tone pot.
