Lfalex v1.1

Mustang Sadly

That Metallica classic. Master of Muppets

They did it again in "Burning Heart" "Rising like a spider"... Oh. Spire...

Definitely a good 'un. Dialled in the sound I wanted almost straight away. I've got it running as a multi-flavoured OD/distortion pedal in front of the Ampeg or via a Nux Mighty Plug, and it's all good. I've got it set up so; Channel A: Bass and Treble wound back for a flatter response. Enough gain to make it break up when I dig in. Channel B: Bass up a smidge, treble down and upper mids advanced a bit. Gives quite an old- school tone with a little grit. Cold fusion is oddly uninspiring with A&B set up as above. Hot fusion defied my expectations and delivers a vintage distortion with a solid underlying tone. I've got it all set to unity gain, so bypass, A,B and Fusion are all the same in terms of output level. It's extremely responsive to playing dynamics, and I think I detect a little natural compression being introduced. A second opinion said that it sounded thicker and fatter but still had plenty of attack and definition. Nothing's perfect, though. I'd still like a tuner out, maybe a "fusion" switch, and a mute button would be a good addition. Also, as it's zero gain in bypass mode, you'd probably not be able to use it to drive a power amp- in spite of the manual depicting otherwise. I'm bemused that the overall result is still good with the signal passing through so many EQ stages; Bass guitar internal pre. Le Bass preamp. Ampeg SVP-PRO (with the graphic "on") Markbass CS450 head- even with the Ampeg wired into the FX return, it leaves the head's EQ still in circuit, only the gain stage is bypassed.

The plastic ones came with Elixirs from new. I've stuck with them. Expensive, but they do last. 40-100 Nickels on this one, methinks...

Cleaning up nicely. That was a good score.

I forgot about the newer wooden ones! I still half- fancied one of these, too! What Lurgy does it have? (I need an EDC 705 (ideally) to complete my set.)

Oh. And I forgot the smell after they've been in a case for a while... 😄

Is it an EDB 600 or an EDC 700? Either way, lovely things (Well, I like them) The EDB is almost normal compared to the EDA and EDC. A word of warning- Don't drop it or allow it to fall any distance, those Luthite bodies are quite brittle. I lost an EDB600 when it slid off the sofa.

That seems reasonable. But if you select to use just one of the resultant 1x10s, it'll take your (hypothetical) 300W @ 4 Ohms head and cut it to ~75W. Using a second of the 1x10s would at least give you an 8 Ohm load and ~150W

I... uh .... May have contributed to it?

In answer to the original question; Yes. I believe there IS a "stacked-knob" thread buried somewhere in BC. Just don't ask me how I know

Are the drivers all identical? They may not be. And how are they wired to achieve a workable impedance for the amp section? (I presume it's a minimum of 4 Ohms, but you never know) These factors may conspire to preclude the use of 3x1x10..

Just about to acquire one (Very late to the party, I know!) Can it match the Ampeg SVP Pro for tone, though? We'll see. It's not a perfect fit for me (don't want or need the MIDI or cab sim) No aux in, and I'd prefer a ¼" headphone out. On the plus side, it's switchable. And the Ampeg isn't. Can't see Hot Fusion being much use to me, but bypass, A,B and Cold Fusion ought to be enough...

Without wishing to cloud the issue, it IS possible to run a big amp into a cabinet with a lower power rating IF YOU ARE CAREFUL. I've used a QSC PLX 1202 bridged into a Trace Elliot 2103H. That's ~600w @ 8 Ohms into an 8 Ohm cabinet that's good for ~160w. In fairness, I had the QSC's HPF on, and only "kept up" with the rest of the band, but it worked fine.

Is it true that Richard Page was approached by both Toto and Chicago to replace (presumably) Bobby Kimball and Peter Cetera respectively? @cetera's user name reminded me!

The guilty parties L-R Steve Farris (guitars) The Pat Mastelotto (Drums) Richard Page (bass) Steve George (keyboards) Shame they didn't manage to duplicate the quality or success of "Welcome to the Real World". There's hardly a bad track on it.

Overrated- Yamaha Attitude. Mine was fabulously well made and robust, but I could never make it sing. It just honked like a wounded Bison. Pedal pre-amps- yet to find one that I like, have been through the Hartke VXL, Sansamp and MXR (M80?) DI+ Underrated- Bongo. Divisive aesthetics, but oh, the tone and clout! Whirlwind cables- I've one that's 30 years old and has never even crackled.

I generally perform adjustments by ear; Bass plugged in. EQ "flat". Using headphones. I just try to achieve a good volume balance from string to string, and also from one pickup to the other. This can be virtually impossible to achieve with some lower-output bridge pickups, so I just do the best I can.

It's worth remembering that the Dolphin and Infinity models have similar pickup complements and EQ sections... Just in case you don't fancy the metal aesthetic.

Amp- power. Plenty of it. It's better to turn a 500w amp down than run a 100watter flat-out all night. Weight may also be a consideration if you've far too carry it. Cabinet- Sensitivity ( dB/W at 1m. Usually taken at 1kHz IIRC) Basically, the more the better. It'll go louder easier. Power handling. Can it take what your amp of choice can dish out? Impedance- might you want to add another cab? Will the amp drive two? Size and weight are considerations for transportation. Me? I've a 31kg cabinet that'll take 1000w. It's a 4Ohm unit, so maximises what I can get from.... A 450w transistor class A/B head which lives in a 2u case. Fits in the car with the seats down, and the cab is a one-man lift. I strap it all to a dolly board, and it's a single trip from car to rehearsal room or venue. It was all purchased s/h on this forum. The whole lot Inc. cases, covers and cables cost <£500. P.S. I use this at home for practice, too. It still works at lower volumes 🙃

I had a similar experience with a Zoom B3. In the "Total" menu, there's a master wet/dry mix for the entire patch and it's contents. That was set to 50/50, which meant I couldn't eliminate the dreaded chorus wobbles. Set it to 100% wet, and it's much better. Dialling out cab emulation generally improves everything. Unless it's needed for recording or a signal to a desk, I turn it off.