Lfalex v1.1

Amen to that. I forgot about ASATs. I love 'em, but I'd have to sell me SRX700 first, and I can't do that!

[quote name='thedontcarebear' post='508797' date='Jun 9 2009, 08:27 AM']Just get a secondhand Warwick? You should be able to get a Corvette for that easily.[/quote] Exactly what I was thinking...

Is this a half-cut, then? As long as the balance is there, then I don't mind!

Witham, Essex Colchester, Essex France Germany x2 Japan X2 USA x2 Korea x3 Indonesia Must... Downsize...

[quote name='Toasted' post='506234' date='Jun 5 2009, 11:40 AM']Bananas - natural beta blockers. I always eat two before I go on.[/quote] And they release carbohydrates nice and slowly so no sugar crashes mid-gig! Other than that, enjoy it, and keep going regardless of what people say!! Gigging really can put you in some hilarious situations... I can recall lots of excitement involving clamped cars, driving through a pedestrian precinct, lightning strikes, electrocution, playing fretless without a drummer in a graveyard in front of 1500 people (not all at once)... It's all part of the fun!

Not amused! I don't really share mine with anyone. Whereas my wife shares hers with Kelly Groucutt (ELO) and Will Lee My eldest daughter shares hers with Jet Harris (Shadows, methinks) And I'm disowning my youngest on the basis that she shares hers with Trent Reznor (NIN) and Josh Homme (Qotsa) Grrrr!

[quote name='bilbo230763' post='504821' date='Jun 3 2009, 04:33 PM']You may be right, Chris. The trouble with gear is that, even if you live near a credible dealer, you never get to try until you buy. I haven't even SEEN any of the cabs you mentioned, let alone played one! I will look out for them, tho'. If I can improve on the Eden with a lighter rig (without selling the car), then that's cool.[/quote] Felixstowe isn't too far to make a quick visit to Bassmerchant. They stock Aguilar, plus Eden and SWR for the sake of comparison, not to mention Markbass... Might be worth a try.

I haven't actually got rid of any of mine yet!! My first was a Westone Raider1, which in spite of the awful finish and spiky body is actually quite well made.. I got VERY lucky with my second bass. I started saving for a Fender Jazz, overdid the saving bit, decided to get a five string and discovered the Bass Centre (then @ Wapping) After a battle royal, a Vigier Passion V (S3) beat a Warwick Thumb NT V. Considering I knew so little then, I did well. Either of those two would still sit well in the collection, but I reckon the Vigier was the better choice for me. Unfortunately, I just keep walking into random shops when I'm out and about, see something, have THAT feeling, pick it up and it turns out to be really good, so I purchase it (funds permitting) Some good 'uns have got away in the process because I let people talk me out of it Most notably a Ken Smith 6, An Early Modulus Flea sig, a Steinberger XL2, plus some others. Otherwise, I just try things that are different to what I already own. That'd explain the Warwick Infinity SN4, Yamaha Attitude and Status Streamline, then! The most recent addition has been the Status. Damn fine instrument it is, too. Still not "better" than the Vigier. Just different! It can make some very aggressive noises indeed when so persuaded. I did buy a Fender Jazz in the end, and a good one at that! Just keep trying instruments. Some you'll hate. Others you'll love. Quite soon you'll know exactly what you do and don't like. Then you'll reach the point that I think quite a lot of us on here have; The (grim) realization that no one bass can do it all. The answer of course- buy lots (and enjoy!)

Can't comment on the string tension! It's too variable by string choice IMO! Otherwise, expect more a more "upfront" sound than the SR5 gives (I have one, too) The 2EQ seems to be more favoured hereabouts, but I reckon the best I've played is a 3EQ that was knocking about in Stringsdirect! Bear in mind also that the pick-ups are different (depending on the age of the various instruments) with regards to the magnet material- My 1990 SR5 has an AlNiCo magnet. I do believe they changed to Ceramic in about '92. I think the SR4 and Sterling are different, too. This can help to contribute to tonal differences, too. Bodies vary, too. Trans finishes are invariably Ash. Solid colours are Alder, and potentially Poplar under darker finishes. As for sunbursts, I'm sure Ive seen both Ash and Alder, but couldn't swear to it. What does it give that a J doesn't? That "simple", "direct" sound that all single pickup designs share, presumably caused by the lack of phase-cancellation that 2 pickup designs introduce (it's not necessarily a bad thing, as you can find that "sweet spot" on a Jazz by adjusting the two volumes) A bit more flexiblity arising from the EQ section (I'm not familiar with all your jazzes, are any active?) A lack of hum and buzz! It's a Humbucker, after all!!

Fat neck? Well made? You did mention the Yamaha Attitude earlier, I noticed... I've yet to play a duff one. QC seems pretty good. Mine was even Japanese made (but it is a [i]bit[/i] different. Worth a try if you get the opportunity, but a Jazz it most certainly is not!

[quote name='Beedster' post='500567' date='May 29 2009, 08:07 AM']If you want the musicman tone and Pedulla style you're far better off getting someone to build you something to that spec than speculatively modding your current bass Rob. SR5's are to my mind the least elegant looking of the Fender/MM/G&L styles basses (with the exception of some horrors Fender produced in the 80's), so I see your point, but my old black/black/rosewood was to my mind the rare exception so you might find a decent looking one if you lok around?[/quote] Absolutely! But I would say that; Black. Black/White/Black scratchplate Pau Ferro Fingerboard (no lines) Definitely leave the Pentabuzz alone!

[quote name='bubinga5' post='494659' date='May 21 2009, 09:06 PM'] bloody el..[/quote] Y'know you were asking what to get for £4k... There's a start! Wicked bass, BTW!

[quote name='dlloyd' post='496906' date='May 24 2009, 11:00 PM']This is getting kind of boring. The Feiten system does not magically create just intonation. It compensates for lower fret inaccuracy.[/quote] Is this what we all need, then? (Taken from the Yamaha AES Frank Gambale Signature guitar) This would make a difference, presumably. I should imagine this cures the lower fret inaccuracy, but what about allowing just intonation? The question that begs is; If this necessary to achieve tuning accuracy (and I'm not inferring that it isn't), why haven't manufacturers adopted it en masse?

Jeez, all I was trying to express was that increased tuning accuracy was arguably a moot point when compared to other factors which might well make a greater (negative) contribution than a cheaper tuner. So... How does one install a BFTS shelf nut or compensated nut to an instrument with a zero fret and have it make any difference?

[quote name='WHUFC BASS' post='495015' date='May 22 2009, 11:45 AM']Best strap I've used is a Comfort Strapp...if you've got a heavy bass, this is the one for you.[/quote] Agreed, but they're not so good for very light basses. They bounce too much!

[quote name='johnnylager' post='496028' date='May 23 2009, 01:51 PM']Anyone know anyone who uses it? Apart from that bloke in the pub.[/quote] Buzz Feiten?! But I know what you mean! Similarly, there's hardly been a big rush to adopt compensated nuts (As now used by Musicman). Tuning? Too.. Many... Variables! Not least; Temperature Humidity String condition Integrity of tuners (on the bass) Solidity of the bridge Fret condition I use a DTR1000. Seems to work okay. I've Heard of Peterson, but have never seen one. I wouldn't know where to get one, either! Don't say "Off the 'net". I'm sick of various delivery services destroying my goods / never receiving them / getting them 6 months later.

I use different strings on different basses, as some sound better on some instruments than others! I generally favour 40, 60, 80, 100 or 45, 65, 80, 100 gauges. As a rule, I go with steels or coated strings. The only exception is my 2004 MIA Fender Jazz (Ash bodied) which wears Fender 7150 Nickels (£13 a set and sound just as I'd want them to!) Otherwise; Warwick Infinity SN4 - Elixirs Squier VM Jazz - DR Fatbeams Vigier Passion S3 - DR Fatbeams (although I'm still experimenting) Status Streamline - Status Hotwires (DBall end) Yamaha Attitude - Still working on this one! Hated EB Slinkies, Elixirs sound odd on the Phenolic fretboard. Might try a DR type. I don't think flats are for me. I'd use heavier gauges if I were down-tuning. In terms of recommendation? DR for absoulute tone. Elixir for durablity. I'm tempted by Thomastik -Infeld Jazz Rounds, though (at a price!)

[quote name='johnnylager' post='493041' date='May 20 2009, 10:14 AM']Been using Hybrid nickel & SS Slinkys on and off for 20-odd years on every bass I've owned - I always come back to them and won't be moving away again. Recently tried some Lo-Riders that lasted half a gig before going off and some cheapy nickel Rotos that were ok, but weren't Slinkys. Better than those piece-of-sh*t-took-6-weeks-to-arrive-and-lasted-20-minutes DR's though.[/quote] Isn't that odd. My experience is almost the exact opposite of yours! My EB (Hybrid Slinkys) strings died almost instantly, and I find that Rotos give up all too soon. I'd have recommended DRs. My FatBeams have lasted well and continue to sound great. I also rate Status Hotwires and Elixir strings (but find that the latter sound a bit "quacky" or "cuppy" on basses with wooden necks and (fretted) phenolic fretboards.)

Any of the above, plus Vigier Alembic Ken Smith Carl Thompson Status Basslab Gus Enfield (Big Red X will doubtless expand upon these!)

Second hand! You might get lucky and score a Highway one...

I like JJ (twin J, Double J, call them what you will!) at the bridge position. Works well in the Warwick Dolphin/Infinity/Vampyre. Also works very well in the MIA Fender Precision Deluxe. I suppose the Roscoe Becks are a variation on the theme, too. The Warwicks are tappable, too, so you can use it as a single coil if you like. Gives some nice tonal options, and plenty of output if you want it; No more feeble sounding bridge pick-ups (more a problem with guitars IME!)

Another vote for DR. I like FatBeams, and keep meaning to get some Sunbeams for my Jazz. The secret really is in the round core. Much softer and more compliant under both hands.

Yamaha and Ibanez. Sure, I've got basses that are (supposedly) better, but I think as "brands" they've both done well to make quality instruments accessible at affordable prices, and they also make higher-end models for players to grow into. In these respects, at least, they are helping to drive bass playing / popular / live music along. That is no bad thing, and for that they should be applauded.

[quote name='Crazykiwi' post='483706' date='May 9 2009, 02:05 PM']Well FWIW, I prefer low action and I'm extremely fussy with my necks. Mainly because I've tried graphite necks (which are easy to get low action on when they've been dressed properly) and these have generally set the standard. The key to a good dressing is to pretension the neck to the same bow as when it has strings on it. Then its a simple matter to dress the frets flat.[/quote] I'm not at all fussed with neck profile (as long as someone has actually bothered to sand it!), but I agree that a good graphite neck can contribute to a very (playable) low action. My Status Streamline is a case in point. I run the Vigier a little higher, but I think that's to fatten up the sound of the single coils. Otherwise, I'm fortunate enough to have a few basses at my disposal, and set them up to play to their strengths. The Ibanez is set up very low so it does clatter and grind on [i]glissandos[/i], and I'd use it for heavy rock/ metal. The Warwick Infinity sounds better with a higher action, so I've left it alone! Most of the others fall somewhere in between. Horses for courses, as they say...

+1 to using the stuff used to line pick-up truck flat beds with (ToughKote or some such) Or go to an In-Car-Entertainment specialist. They sell the sort of carpet you'll need, plus the spray adhesive to fix it to the cabinet. Definitely a DIY job!