Lfalex v1.1

[quote name='danbanbass' post='12456' date='Jun 5 2007, 01:22 PM']right, no reply, how would i go about a refund, i paid by switch online. Thanks Dan[/quote] Contact your card issuer (presumably your bank). State what has occurred accurately and fairly. Ask them to retrieve the funds. Don't waste your time dealing with the BC for this, they'll just mess you around again. DO contact the BC out of courtesy and explain what you've done. If they can't be bothered to acknowledge this, then it's their bad. Go via your card issuer. Don't enter into a slanging match yourself, they'll do it for you if necessary. If (on the off-chance) they're wholly disorganised, you may end up with a cab being delivered... Don't sign for it and refuse to accept delivery of it. If it's via Parcelfarce, they'll probably leave an 8x10 on your doorstep in the rain.

How did you pay? With debit cards and credit cards you can have the various agencies recall the funds. I've had to do that before with some companies, some bass-related, and some not. That's a last resort, but if they're passing you around on the 'phone, cancelling your order and threatening that may knock them into line. It's a pity GAK don't do Eden. They know how to process online/ telephone orders/ postal deliveries properly. Never had or heard of a bad experience with them (in terms of delivery)

[quote name='Buzz' post='11429' date='Jun 3 2007, 03:15 PM']Blocks yes......binding sprayed?, doesn't look like it, I'll have to investigate on mine.[/quote] Definitely. Er... And that there "skunk-stripe" on the neck is not all it seems, either. I detect some judicious use of dark woodstain! [i]Still[/i] good basses, though!

I hope your amp set-up doesn't go the way mine did! I have a kranky SVP-pro that mutes if subjected to too much acoustic feedback (vibration). My QSC plx1202 died, too. It NEVER all worked together continuously for an entire gig. It did make it through the odd practice in one piece. Sounded fantastic, but way too unreliable. I can't / won't buy another QSC. Might get one of the Behringer "copies" Meanwhile, my 12 year-old Trace SMX soldiers on regardless! Love the Geddy Lee refinish, and have always had a soft spot for 'Rays/Sterlings.

[quote name='Buzz' post='11429' date='Jun 3 2007, 03:15 PM']Blocks yes......binding sprayed?, doesn't look like it, I'll have to investigate on mine.[/quote] It took me ages to notice, and I only found out whilst outside in strong daylight. I turned through the light whilst cleaning it, and saw the woodgrain through it! Guess it makes sense from an economic point of view and in terms of ease of manufacture. If it's good enough to fool us lot, then it must be pretty well done! Further still, I find it quite pleasing that the physical integrity of the fretboard hasn't been "compromised" by cutting/routing bits out of it. Many people seem to remark on the good "feel" of the necks. Now I think of it, a lot of my basses don't have position markers inserted into the front face of the fretboard; Vigier- none Warwicks- none Yamaha- transfers Squier- Sprayed on Stingray fretless V (unlined)- none They all have top edge markers, though! (phew!)

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='10995' date='Jun 2 2007, 12:28 PM']Another good idea. Actually i just tried that and yes, it works although i need to get a black one as mine is lime green[/quote] I use a green one on my Trace... Goes nicely with the green mouse fur covering and green lettering!

[attachment=413:Squier70VMJ006.jpg] Here's mine. My wife bought it for me Then I added; A BadAss II Black Control knobs (in solid brass) by Schaller DR Fat Beams strings Sounds good relative to the modest outlay. Bridge pick-up is excellent. The neck is a bit murky. Tone control is only okay- the pot's okay, but it comes on strong a bit early. A better quality one might be a good idea. Feel, fit and finish are good at this price. Beware! The block markers AND the binding are both SPRAYED ON! No sign of it wearing off, though!

My Zoot bass is a good example of inordinately high string tension. Even with 35-95s on, it's harder to fret than one of my Warwicks with 45-105s. One major difference is the break angles- The Zoot is thru-body, and the Warwicks are all top-loaders. Furthermore, the Zoot has a severe break angle at the headstock, as ALL the strings pass under a retainer. Warwicks have the angled headstock, and need no string trees. Do you want the basses to sound the same? If you can live with (or want) a different sound, I've found that DR Fat beams run a discernably lower tension at the same gauge on the same instrument than some other brands. I attribute this to their being round -cored, but I could be wrong. The bass is a Squier 70s VMJ with a BadAss II on it. It feels very similar to my thru-body MIA S1 Jazz, but that's got 40-100s on it compared to the VMJs 45-100s. Aren't flatwounds softer for a given gauge, too?

Love the Attitudes. Here's why! They take some getting used to, then there's no looking back... Well made, tonally diverse, noise-free instruments. With bags of character.

My Yamaha Attitude is passive. Soundmen repeatedly ask me to turn it down/cut the bass (assuming it to be active) It's hotter than everything but my Zoot- and that runs a Seymour Duncan MMHB into a Jon East E-pro using 18v. It's a bit much, usually!

[quote name='OldGit' post='8357' date='May 28 2007, 10:27 PM']Well I'd say that none of those are difficult to fix as long as the client doesn't mind paying for a top skilled custom bass builder to spend his time trawling Ebay and t'internet looking for odd things rather than building basses ... A touch of realism is alway helpful ..[/quote] Er... He had 'em IN STOCK. Right there. Right then. Kicking about, like. Bear in mind he has the retail side to consider plus a couple of other people to help him out.

[quote name='presoulnation' post='8499' date='May 29 2007, 10:32 AM']Life would be so much easier if we didn't need batteries![/quote] Agreed, but I don't see the "Trevor Bayliss wind-up bass" catching on! As most gigs (except the outdoor ones) are in the dark, solar power is out, too. Realistically, the EBS idea of "phantom powering" FX pedals and Active EQs from their amps is the only alternative.

That's one nice bass! Hope it makes it, too.

[quote name='OldGit' post='7833' date='May 27 2007, 09:40 PM']Not if they are as good as everyone says (and you have enough money) Sorry if I promote my man Shuker but , hey if you find something good you want to share it with your mates .. That's all. There are many, many other custom bass builders who are, I'm sure, just as good ... I just don't know them personally .[/quote] Mike (Iceni) is already looking uncomfortable from bending over backwards to help people! I periodically pop in "on spec" and he's always had the all of my most bizarre requests to hand; BadAss II Three Solid Brass Schaller Knobs (Black) ONE Schaller Straplock compatible button (Silver) I also own one of his basses, a custom. But it wasn't made for me. It wasn't made for anyone, it's the Chaser prototype.

[quote name='bassaussie' post='8036' date='May 28 2007, 12:55 PM']If they were Warwick's own electronics, wouldn't that make them MEC? Personally, I've had two Warwicks. One was from new, with MEC pickups and electronics, and the other used, with EMGs. The MECs were most definitely the weakest part of either bass. I've also used MEC pickups in a Jazz bass project, and my opinion was the same. I've always heard that Seymour Duncans (pickups and electronics) can sound pretty amazing in a Warwick.[/quote] Yep. I've got a '96 Streamer LX6. It has the "usual" MEC set-up; Volume w/pull up passive Pan Bass Treble The Pick-ups on mine are Seymour Duncans. I see that newer models have MEC pick-ups. I presume that these weren't available back then, as the 6ers all seem to have differing pick-ups. Mine lacks a bit of clout, but I wouldn't want to change the tone... That said, my all-MEC Infinity SN4 is excellent, but it took some Elixirs and a FatFinger to get it there.

Just bought some Energiser Ultra 9v (PP3) batteries. They're £2.65 at Morrisons. [size=6][color="#FF0000"]BUY ONE, GET ONE FREE![/color][/size] Those of you with more than 2 active instruments might find this a good offer, as might those of you running 18v, 27v or 36v active systems, wireless units, pedals, tuners (and smoke alarms!!)

I have two. One to wash, and one to wear... (Really I'm just lazy!) I like what they do to the sound/tone of an instrument, and they can help to alleviate dead spots a bit, too. I use them all the time, on a variety of instruments, ranging from a Squier to a Vigier, Warwicks, etc. Obviously, they improve cheaper instruments the most, but even the more expensive ones benefit a bit - mainly in terms of depth of tone. I think I paid about £15 a throw for mine.

Corvette $$ (4 or a 5) But not necessarily in Red or Black... G&L ASAT Some sort of custom 4 string with a slabby single-cut (ASAT) style body and passive electrics akin to a Yamaha Attitude with a (tap-able) JJ at the bridge...

Iceni music Goodfellow Sei are all within driving distance, But I think they'd never want to see me again once I started wanting to tweak things this way and that!

Fascinating how much work goes into it and how many combinations and permutations of design and materials exist. A good find. Thanks for sharing it! All I need now is for a manufacturer/luthier to take this much care over creating an instrument just for ME! "No! I want the bridge made from Brass and the saddles from Titanium. and I want it anodised in purple by 1,000 hand-picked virgins!" "Jeeves! I want more balsamic vinegar in my Velociraptor and Marmite sandwich!"

[quote name='stevebasshead' post='4379' date='May 22 2007, 01:31 PM']...or lift it alone Nice beast !! My 1048 on it's own is a pain to lift, let alone in combo form. That and the 1518 are the reason I went for a pair of Tech cabs. And now my back is speaking to me again.[/quote] No worries! My job involves lots of lifting heavy/awkward loads. After 18 years, I've got the technique down! I only lift when I have to, though. That's the trick. My 1153 has castors, and I have a dolly board/elastic straps for the rest so it all just rolls. My issue with the 1048 is its depth. You can't get it AND you through a single doorway sideways at the same time. Face on, and you can kiss your knuckles goodbye. Ditto the 1518. It's the same enclosure with different baffle, grille, ports and driver.

[quote name='binky_bass' post='6603' date='May 25 2007, 04:03 PM']Good to see a decent collection of basses in essex! thought i might be the only bassist in essex who actually knows the instrument. its good to see a fellow essex player! heres a pic of whats soon to be my cherished slag![/quote] You certainly aren't alone in Essex! There's plenty of us. We just hide well. There's at least 3 or 4 on BC alone.

[quote name='OutToPlayJazz' post='4001' date='May 21 2007, 10:01 PM']I'd agree with Machines... Active is always best for a more controllable sound. No flat spots or quiet patches! I've sold every passive bass I've ever owned, as much as I love the jazz aerodyne as well![/quote] Sacrilege! My collection's split about 40/60 (passive to active) The 3 passives are excellent; Squier MII 70's VM Jazz Fender MIA S1 Jazz Yamaha Attitude II limited 10th Anniversary BS signature And I'd never sell them! I agree that active electronics can give more sound variations, but I have a Hohner which sounds better passive and a Vigier which sounds better with the EQ set to "Flat". That said, the Warwicks and Zoot sound better active, but only because the pick-ups sound a bit feeble unaided... There's a mixture of woods in there, though. Maple, Wenge, Rosewood, Ash, Purpleheart and Zebrano. There's definitely an increased tendency to use Basswood or Agathis bodies in mid-priced instruments to keep costs down and introduce a degree of sustainable wood sourcing into instrument manufacture. As for the purchasing decision regarding MIM J Deluxe vs. MIJ Aerodyne, try this; Pin down an Aerodyne, and take your MIM Jazz with you and A/B it in a shop. What? They won't let you? Guess they don't want your business or that of your friends/relations then! Having tried both together, at least you can make a reasoned decision. Then come the options based upon your thoughts. Keep the MIM Sell the MIM and buy the Aerodyne P/X the MIM against the Aerodyne [i]Find[/i] a way to buy the Aerodyne (if you like it) AND keep the MIM J Deluxe. I must admit, that's how I do it now. Save up finances and pent-up GAS. Go out and find something genuinely new or different or better. Then buy it! Then you don't regret flogging what (in retrospect) was a really good bass to buy another one...

Run some Emery or Wet & Dry (folded) through the grooves. That'll clean out any nasty burrs. Have you a magnifying glass (no, really!) Have a close-up look. Failing that, "floss" yer grooves with an old string appropriate to the gauge that'll be sitting there As everyone else says; File the saddles - I only went half the string's diameter deep and rounded out the bottom of the groove with a tiny rat's tail file to give optimum string-to-saddle contact. Shim the neck. Depending on the thickness needed, I've heard of all sorts being used! From a piece of plastic document sleeve, via cereal packet cardboard, right up to slice/s of wood veneer.

Unbitten! Start playing young (Younger than I did!) Buy good instruments that you like. Keep on GASsing and buying. Play for 20+ years. BINGO! (Not exactly instant) High quality vintage bass collection. One that you enjoyed making along the way. I say "unbitten", but the collection of ageing basses is past double figures!