Lfalex v1.1

I purchased a G&L SB-2 Tribute (s/h) whose strings were way too non-compliant (stiff) for my taste. To soften the feel, I dropped it to D standard and use a capo as required. it'll easily go lower without flapping. Vendor says they're 50-110, but can't recall if they're DR low-riders or Dean Markley Blue steels. 🙃 Either way, I'd like to replicate the feel it's got at the mo', but with brighter strings. Tempted to try DR DDTs...

I bought a mass-produced bass for more than £1500. And it was second- hand. It's an excellent instrument, and was really good value compared to some others I've seen.

This track is vaguely reminiscent of Faith No More, with a bit of The Stranglers (Peaches) thrown in. Pretty good, though.

I like that you put Overkill first. They were uppermost in my mind. DD Verni is properly good. Their material is usually done on a (BC Rich) 4, tuned to C or C#. Can't remember which!

Purchased a K&M stacker & table adaptor.. Moderately expensive, but properly heavyweight. Was expecting a box of bits. Came nearly fully assembled. Hardest part was positioning the feet upon which the keyboards rest so as to properly support them. Delivered as promised by Thomann.

As a left-field idea; Have you tried sourcing any NOS pots from the correct year or production era? A long-shot, and doubtless expensive, but you might get lucky.

But... I don't like the colour?

Yeah. Got my Is, IIs and IIIs mixed up. Fortress has an original brass I. Infinity started out with a II, and now has a brass III..

I've an '97 Fortress and an '02 Infinity SN. The 2nd fret on the Fortress B string (C#, metal boys!) is a little flattened and could do with reshaping. Other than that, it's great. The Infinity, less so, but only because Warwick were using lower quality parts. I had 2 E- string tuners strip their gears and spit out their tuning posts, and the JAN III fell apart like they all do. Tuners replaced with licensed Hipshots. Brass JAN II now on nut duty. In summary, hardware more of an issue on 00's basses, but nothing beyond the realms of DIY.

Same here. I was serially unlucky with hardware synths. Anderton's put it straight when the one I ordered from them was also faulty.

I have a FatFinger. It removed the dead-spot on my Fender Jazz (now gone) completely. They don't have any noticeable effect on some instruments (Vigier Passion ignores it) Some instruments it makes worse. My Warwick Infinity just sounds lifeless with it fitted, and it didn't have any dead-spots to begin with. Yet on my Fortress and NS EUB it firms up the bottom end nicely. Weird. Definitely a try-before-you-buy item.

The Hofner and Ricks would be a flat "No" from me, so I guess it'd be the Hayman, then.

Since I'm utterly incapable of any act of self- promotion, it's never a problem I've encountered. I try to delegate such things to other, more enthusiastic people. 🙃

No.

Hmmm. There seems to be a couple of forces at work in Internet product pricing; Inflation, driven by increased labour costs (including the supply chain), raw materials and parts costs. Dynamic pricing by retailers- having seen upward and downward movement in item prices, I'm fairly sure that prices are adjusted (manipulated?) in relation to demand, supply and current inventory at any given retailer.

^^ I try to think of channels A and B as being "Modern" and "Vintage" respectively. I don't know what bass(es) you're using, but I agree that A is the better channel for aggressive grit/dirt, whatever you're playing. B really comes into its own for me using very modern, lively-sounding basses. Works a treat toning down and warming up my Warwicks in particular in a way that their own EQs can't. It sounds even better through my Ampeg SVP-PRO. Bypass- just the Ampeg A - Grrrrrr B- just a gentle push to drive the Ampeg to do the dirty work. Can't say I need the fusion modes much though. Bypass, A and B are enough for me.

Missed adding in a Line 6 Variax system! Oh, and Lightwave pickups!

Almost anything from a "major" manufacturer would be overpriced rubbish for my YOB ('73) I don't really care for Precisions or Gibsons, so that'd leave Jazzes, customs, and maybe some of the earliest Japanese efforts. Maybe Burns or Shergold, also? Edit- A quick search reveals a plethora of Ps, a smattering of Js and a Gibson Grabber. All at prices that elicited both laughter and tears at the same time. I could buy a new [better] MIA Fender AND something else half-decent for that. Better still, a nice condition S/H Roscoe Beck...

Almost perfect. Needs DR Neons on it, and lose the dot markers for that sleek look.

They could add the Bongo and Sterling, too. Be nice if they offered a choice of Alnico, Ceramic and Neodymium pickups. Similarly, there's no facility to have black knobs on a silver plate and vice versa, etc.

Frequency cut-off is a good assignment for an exp pedal. Wave Tuning (for whichever has the greater hf content or is prevalent in the mix) is very effective. Insta-Vangelis!

@Woodinblack I've yet to try more than one due to lack of time this AM! I assigned it to oscillator modulation so it was easy to hear. Most of the functions are fairly immediately available via surface controls. FX seems like an idea if it's an option- I suppose it would just govern wet/dry mix for the assigned slot? Otherwise, "Spread" seems good, or even one of the wave tunings. I doubt my ability to land it at the right point for +/- 4ths, 5ths, Octave/Double octave intervals, though!

Now digging deeper into various aspects of the Argon 8's functionality. A pleasing revelation; It works perfectly with my 30 year-old Roland EV-5 expression pedal, which has sat unused in a drawer. Was a bit of a pain to work out what format the Argon 8 was expecting (TRS/RTS, 1,2&3) and how to set the EV-5's own control to give an appropriate range. Now all I have to do is find out what is limitations are with regard to what it can be assigned to.....

A friend of mine quit playing guitar and gave me some Whirlwinds over 25 years ago. They're still going strong.

Only must seen it. Calling "April Fool" on this one.