Lfalex v1.1

Yep. Just measured it. I made it 55~56mm.

(In agreement with much of what had been said before) The real "value" in modding lies in the learning processes; The acquisition of the technical skills to perform the task and the learning curve that accompanies this. The understanding of how the modifications affect the tone and playability of the instrument. The insight that the modification process gives into the original design and construction

I had a Squire (70s) VMJ. I put a BadAss II on it and a set of DR Fatbeams. They were good additions IMO. Pickups would've been next. I felt they these and/or the electrics made it sound a bit "dark"

This, but be aware that the tone controls on the amp might not be centred on the right frequencies for bass guitar. If you can get it to be approximately flat or get the tone you're after from the bass itself or a pedal, then go for it.

Some Warwicks share pickups between 4 and 5 strings. I have 2 that do; An Infnity SN4 and Fortress MM5. The MEC TwinJ (JJ) pickups are the same on both basses. I've been told that they've blades inside rather than individual polepieces.

Unless the "endpin" is well isolated from the floor, it'll cause some good structurally- borne vibrations. Imagine it being played with vigour in a timber- floored upstairs room. Even without amplification, I reckon it'll make its presence felt.

Shoreline looked great on the Roscoe Beck Fenders. Even looks good with tort (as above)

If we're going for car colours (and let's face it, most of the Fender ones were anyway) I'd use Renault Liquid Yellow. Matching headstock. Black plate. No. I've just seen the white blocks and binding. That'll be awful... LPB with matching headstock then.

P5 and D5... They seem to be missing a string.

Happened to me at The Gallery over an Ibanez EDC700. The bass was second(-hand, and the advice was to phone them. So I did, and paid for it there and then. Then they phoned me back a bit later, saying it had been sold even though it was still listed. This, plus a previous incident, means I won't be bothering The Gallery with my custom again. Happy ending, however. I put up an ad on here in Items Wanted, and ended up with an EDC715 and an EDA900 instead.

Mine had a pearloid cover to match the scratchplate.. Another BCer has it now..

Exactly my first thoughts. I'd fill them up with dead skin pretty quickly...

Conversely, my SB-2 Tribute is only about 8lb...

Very true. And the persistent magnetic fields of said inactive parts of the circuit will still affect the strings, too. That'll also make it sound less like a single coil.

Fixed that for you! 😉

There's a demo of this vs. a CV Squire on Andertons' site. I'd have to change the tort 'guard, though...

I got the right one, then... 😃 The MFD pickups do seem to give the SB-2 an unfair advantage, regardless of any level-matching from elsewhere in the signal path.

DI alone would probably be good enough for "Tonal Analysis". People generally adjust amp (or instrument) EQ to compensate, not rely on the core tone of the bass itself. (Personally, I'd probably try DI recording and playback through headphones, then try it out with an amp)

To give the B string more definition(?) Just a guess...

Sloppy fingering? Your words are meaningless to me...

All this now makes me wonder... Do they use Low Pass Filters to suppress noise above, say 16kHz. Nothing up there but hiss and electrical noise.

Excellent. If the grain is a good as the body in the photo, just stain the front face instead and paint the back & sides. Or stain it all over.

Ah, forgive the vagaries of my memory!

I had a QSC PLX1202 power amp. It had dip-switches for an HPF ( on/off, 35Hz/50Hz -3dB 24dB/ octave roll-off) This afforded me the opportunity to experiment. The 35Hz setting helped a lot. Cleared out a lot of "congestion" from the sound, and audibly decreased the stress in the sound from the cabinet, while also tangibly increasing headroom. I was reluctant to use the 50Hz setting, as it's below the fundamental of even "E" (about 41Hz). Turned out it was even better, despite supposedly being above the lowest frequency the cab could supposedly output (but no dB reference point was given!)

Sims would take the fingerboard off, drill it for LED dots, rout the board or neck for the wiring- using the truss rod channel isn't a great idea, and then look at the existing power or adding another battery somewhere in the body to run it all..