
Lfalex v1.1
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Everything posted by Lfalex v1.1
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Just a left-field piece of rationalisation; Piezo bridges and saddles work ok with everything from unwound (G,B, high E) guitar strings up to EUBs. I reckon you're probably safe with contact core designs.
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Have a look at what strings Warwick do/did for their Low-tuned models (Taranis? IIRC) I'm sure the heaviest string was around a 0.175 That'd go plenty low enough, but I guess you might have to file out your nut/bridge saddles to get a sensible action. Failing that, play using "A" an octave up and see if you can find an octave pedal that tracks really well. Some units do two octaves down.
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Looks promising. Let us know what you decide to do and how you fare with the modifications.. Edit- wow! At those prices I might break mine for spares! 😂
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Not an easy one.. I've a B2a 5string, and I'm assuming the bridge hardware is similar... The bridge saddles are big, square blocks. The factor governing the height of the lowest action is the thickness of those saddles. I reckon you could either file the slots deeper, but they're a particular shape with an edge for the strings to break over, so that's difficult to preserve. I'd be inclined to file down the bottom of the saddle blocks so they sit lower. If you were to do that, you'd have to clean out the grub screw threads AND try to refinish the underside of the saddle back to its original black. Hope this helps a bit..
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I've finally overcome a major obstacle. And acquired a stand for the stick. Keeping it in the hardcase was a major bind. Just got a cheap Stagg item from Argos. It's not perfect, but the Stick stays put on it.Somewhat cheaper than the $130 that Stick Enterprises want for theirs (and that's before shipping & taxes)
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I have an old Korg Pandora. Small, drives a proper pair of headphones. I run it from 4xAAA rechargeable batteries and they last a while. It has an ok integrated tuner, FX, and has a tap reverb, which is a lovely thing. Otherwise, I use a cheap 12 track mixing desk. Has phantom power and XLRs for some pedals, and it's better with a Chapman stick than the Pandora.
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I heard John Hall has left the business to start a band. With a guy called Daryl Oates. I'll get me' coat...
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Loving the Rollins Band & Skunk Anansie vids. 2 excellent bassists (Melvin Gibbs and Cass Lewis respectively) and good examples of the use of Dynamics; Loud-quiet-loud(er!)
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New BFR Stingray 4H Special and Stingray 5HH
Lfalex v1.1 replied to drTStingray's topic in Bass Guitars
I'd only have a 5H in Classic. They just don't look "right" in my eyes with anything else. I'm not a dyed-in-the-wool traditionalist, but I'd just get a different bass if I wanted different pickup configurations. -
New BFR Stingray 4H Special and Stingray 5HH
Lfalex v1.1 replied to drTStingray's topic in Bass Guitars
If I had to have one on aesthetic grounds, it'd be the black 4H. The fiver might be awesome, but it doesn't look like a 'Ray. Call me old fashioned, but a 'Ray should look like a 'Ray. If I wanted a 5HH, I think I'd go for a Bongo... -
I thought all the gold-badged MECs were active pickups, with the silver-badged ones being passive. I'm sure some of the higher-spec instruments had 18v electrics (Dolphins, Streamer Stage 2) Edit- the Thumb Thru-neck 5 I tried years ago was definitely 18v- I had the backplate off and there were 2 batteries in there..
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Oddly, Warwick make/ have made more models that channel the Ray than the other way around. Later HH and HS Ray and Bongo models have echoed Warwick configurations, though. I might be tempted to suggest that Warwick's use of active pickups and (in some cases) 18v electrics may find favour with some.
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Here's some ideas; Maybe email the manufacturer of the bass in question? Ask them if they use a specific torque setting. Have you an electric screwdriver/drill with a torque setting? Work out what the tightest setting is that you can undo by hand and use that- it's what I do when assembling furniture etc. It'll give consistent results, and most drivers will let you tighten it up gently. Otherwise, I'd venture to suggest that as tight as you can without damaging the heads or stripping the threads is best. I'd adjust action and intonation after the neck is good and tight.
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All of this.
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Fender Jazz, precision Alloy body are they viable
Lfalex v1.1 replied to funkgod's topic in General Discussion
How heavy would it be, I wonder. Would the neck be aluminium or wooden? -
That's a very valid point. I own a Warwick Infinity SN4. And it can sound amazing. To me, it's all about balancing the JJ at the bridge against the J at the neck and setting the treble EQ accordingly. It doesn't sound much like the one in the vid, that's for sure!
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Nice to see something different!
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I'll have; Smith BSR 5 TN Warwick Infinity SN4 The Vigier. But I may be biased...
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I use the tap tempo reverb on my Korg Pandora (for headphone practice) almost permanently. I don't use a lot, just a smidge to help it slot into the mix of whatever I'm playing along to. This extends to my EUB also. Can't comment on DB, as I don't have one.
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The best B strings I have are not on the instruments you might expect; NS Design NS-CR5 electric upright 10 String Rosewood Chapman stick Both, however, are well-designed and well-constructed, and are of longer than average scale length; 42 inches and 36 inches respectively.
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I always think they look best if they "echo" the appearance and curvature of the fretboard, as though it's meant to be there (The Ibanez GWBs exemplify this, and so do the Zon Manring Hyperbass, but for a different reason! )
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Cleaning Strings with an Ultrasonic Cleaner
Lfalex v1.1 replied to therealting's topic in Bass Guitars
Did you use water in the ultrasonic cleaner? Iso-propyl alcohol might be good, depending on how much your cleaner holds. Check if it's a fire hazard if used in a such a cleaner, though!