Chienmortbb

WARNING NERDY CONTENT Yes, AWG16 (use of AWG is deprecated) is approximately equal to 1.3mm2 , you look on t’interweb, you will find many tables showing the current rating of flexible cable, and they can vary considerably. https://www.cablejoints.co.uk/upload/AWG--American-Wire-Gauge--To-Metric--Sqmm-Millimeters-Squared--Conversion-Table.pdf The reason is that many of them are quoting for different uses, high temperature, enclosed in conduit/trucking etc. These things reduce the current rating. In addition they usually quote for a single conductor, Free air or strapped to a cable tray, those perforated, overhead strips you can sometimes see in shops and factories. When using flexible copper cable to connect between an amplifier and a speaker remember that the cable ratings in these tables is continuous whereas a music everything is along away from continuous (of course most recordings from after the 80s do not qualify as Music). The other thing you need to remember when you’re looking at the cable current rating is that the power you can draw through a cable is determined by the impedance of the load. An 8 ohm load will draw twice the current of an 4 ohm load. So: Let’s take a cable rated at 6 amps. Power is current (squared) x Impedance. 6x6=36 then 36 x 8 = There 288 watts. For 4 ohms it is 36 x 4= 144 watts. The irony of that is many Jacks and plugs are rated at 5 amps or less. Finally the reason for using what seem like crazy large cables for speakers should not be looked at purely for current rating. Thicker cable means lower resistance (although cables exhibit some capacitance and inductance, they can be ignored) especially over short lengths). A cable that is too thin can consume some of your power, especially when running 4 ohms. Thin cable, what those across the pond call hook-up wire can have a resistance of 2 ohms per metre. Of course a 50cm, 2 core speaker cable has 1 metre of cable. So 100 watts of power into a 4 ohm speaker could lose up to 33+ watts in the cable leaving 66+ watts for your speaker. Go up to a 2.5 mm2 and you would lose less that 1/1000th of a watt at 100 watts. You must also remember that both the cable in the cab and cable between the amp and cab need to be added to give an accurate resistance/impedance figure.

When I first got the famous £20 controller, I tried programming all sorts of chases but it not only took a long time but owing to my lack of talent, ended up looking naff. I find it’s. Better to have solid colours changing fairly slowly or a mixture of colours that work well together together, think a half red, half purple. The other issue is, after not using DMX for some time, I had to almost relearn it, As I am also getting to grips with the complexity of modrrn digital mixers, my old brain is sending smoke signals out of my ears snd holding up white flags,

Although I don’t use IEMs live, the boomy bottom and overtly top don’t point to poor sealing of the buds. Try the setup at home, directly from your DI to your P2 and see what you think of the sound both with a “perfect seal” and deliberately ruining the perfect seal.

Did you use a V 1.1 Mixpad? Try running from a computer.

You need to change the network settings so that networks are NOT connected to automatically. On IOS you need to disable Auto Join for all your networks. I have never found this setting on Android but both IoS and Android assume that you must be connected to the Internet and try to force it by default. In fact Windows does something similar.

If you did a factory reset the firmware will revert to that installed at manufacture. Probably V1.1.x. The Mixpad Version must be in the same numeric area as the installed firmware. It is explained better on thr A&H website. So download a copy of Mixpad 1.1 and it will probably connect. You can then update the firmware, either directly via the Mixpad app OR via a USB stick with the updated software installed.

From the User Manual: 5. Connecting control apps The CQ-MixPad app provides full remote control of the CQ over a network connection from an iOS, Android, macOS or Windows device. CQ4You is an easy-to-use personal monitoring app, which also works over a network, and controls the send levels to one of the outputs. Up to 2 instances of CQ-MixPad can be connected to a CQ at once, along with up to 6 instances of CQ4You (one for every output

To be honest, it’s not really an issue, if the nes tablet works I will d delighted.

I’d that a bass amp?

Are we saying that many sound mixists are convinced they are the main attraction.

The Monaco is not Fane equipped. I cannot say what the driver is but I know it is Neodymium and Fane’s Neodymium 12s would not match the Monaco specs. Orienting the horn vertically really is a game changer an in most situations the horizontal dispersal is more than enough for the audience too. The days of putting a bunch of drivers in a box and hoping for the best are, or should be , over.

@Geek99 was right all those years ago about my gear being way above my ability. I don’t need another bass BUT the current shoulder injury needs a shorter scale length. If you listen carefully you will hear SWMBO’s howl as a Shorg Scale drops through the letter box (I know it won’t fit really)

Only that I have had problems with lag on Android tablets. However have now ordered a the one you suggested to try.

I agree with Ed, sorry Al. Using 5GHz is your best bet. The CQ is the best compact mixer on WiFi however many people do use travel routers with them, not because the WiFi is not good but often so they can run wired and wireless networking at the same time. One limitation is that you can only use wired or wireless on the CQ, not both at the same time. I have used both Soundcraft Ui and The Behringer X series and both have virtually unusable WiFi and had to have an external router.

I paid about that price from a UK supplier, although they look to be more powerful luminaires.

I had the bog-standard Gen 9 model (I think) iPad before I got my CQ20B, and it has been fine. According to the App Store, you need at least iPadOS 15 to run A&H's MixPad app. Many CQ users run Mixing Station, a third party app that will control most of the digital mixers, and is favoured by many professional sound techs. The reason is that it is multiplatform so you can buy a licence for each mixer and set the UI up to suit yourself. Mixing Station still runs perfectly on iOS 11 or Android 5 devices. The cost of Mixing Station for the CQ is £9.99 so not outrageous.

None, but I avoid 2.4GHz like the plague for mission-critical applications. This would not interfere with anything, but the 2.4GHz carrier might.

This controller is sold with slight cosmetic variation by many vendors, as well as being sold as an IEM by various companies, most notably Chauvet Obey 40. In fact, I have just downloaded the Chauvet Obey 40 Manual and used it to programme mine. . I bought mine for about £20 S/H.

What controller or Software are you using?

Doh. I was complaining about the lack of a DMX on the wall washer. The clue is RGB. Once you have the address set, the faders 1,2 and 3 on the controller control the Red Green and Blue LEDs. Doh

The cabs have a marmite tone that you will either love or hate. At the South West Bash they were voted top in a cab shootout one year and bottom the following year,

Has anyone found a wireless DMX system that does not operate on 2.4GHz? Tgere is too much WiFi, Bluetooth and microphones/IEM systems working on 2.4GHz to make it reliable for lighting.

Not a problem, AWG 16. Equates to 1.5mm squared. At 8 ohms that would be good for around 1000 watts. As the Fane 8-225 is 225 watts, you have loads to spare.

I have all the same tee shirts. To be honest I find almost soaking the hole with PVA adhesive before inserting the threaded insert works well although both superglue and epoxy will do the job well. It’s just that there is less risk with the PVA. I tend to stick to the workpiece with superglue/cyanoacrylate and if you get epoxy on anything, it’s a swine to get it off.

I thought Jaguars were 32” scale length?