Chienmortbb

I was not comparing any cabinet or driver. I was commenting on the graph of the 12PR300. The tuning of that cabinet suggests that in the area of that dip, the cone excursion would exceed XMax substantially at relatively low powers.

When you see that dip, as with the 12PR300 on the graph, run like hell.

I have learned something new about the CQs. I new that the 12 had no WiFi and limited effects compared to the 18/20 but did not know that it could not use the monitor app. Does that change if you use a standalone WiFi router?

I think it’s time to get GSS involved. The problem is clearly with their amp as the Thunderfunk declares the cabinets not guilty.

That is the input impedance, the sensitivity would either be quoted in mV, V or or possibly dB.

Sounds to me like the Sumo is very insensitive requiring you to drive the Preamp into distortion. The GSS website is appalling. No mention of input sensitivity, no online user manual, no real spec at all. Also don't believe the Class D denyers. They have probably worked out so much to carry their SVTs that their thought processes have been distorted🤣

Its why most TVs have a Dynamic or Shop picture setup choice. Neither is natural but when you are fighting against the bright shop lighting, a natural picture would be swamped.

I have not done anything yet about the string height. I decided to swap out the picky for the Fender Japan one from my Aerodyne. That is also a ceramic and has much bigger magnets than the originals. They do sound better but the originalss not as much as I had hoped. I have ordered a set of Tonerider Classic P so will update as soon as I can.

What make drivers were originally fitted and why choose the Eminence?

Gnome with all EQ set to 12 o'clock,

l More likely due to poor component selection or poor quality components. Capacitors in power amps may het hot and if you look at the de-rating curves with increasing heat, you will see that many will only be rated for 1000 hours a elevated temperatures. Most caps are either 85C or 105C rated but of course running them cooler will extend the life considerably. Established brands like Panasonic, Nichicon, Vishay, Rubycon et al will work well within the spec as @agedhorse suggests above. However buy for reputable distributors.

Funny you should say that as I was considering putting a PR320 up for sale. PM me. AS BFM says it has close to twice the XMax and goes lower so you would not need to push so much low end power from the amp.

The guitarist in my fun band has one, he loves it and even for a duff guitarist like me it seem to play really well. The original Shergolds were based on the old Hayman designs (2020?).

After setting the relief and string height, the saddles are at the bottom of there travel. So increases thickness of shim or file the saddles? I think shim first.

Don’t bother with CTS pots. They are nothing special, just what was available in the USA when Leo Fender making his early guitars/basses.

I am not sure of the age of these but Electrolytics, from the major brands, have improved over the years. As with all things amps, @agedhorse will be able to comment with more experience but I suspect those used by Peavey would have used a better make. That being said, it is certainly worth getting someone to look at the condition of the capacitors as they generally show some mechanical distress before letting go altogether. I did replace the Mullard decoupling/smoothing caps on my HH VS Bassamp with Panasonic ones of the same value (4700uF 50V). The Panasonic ones were half the size, presumably due to the improvements in electrolytes.

Many of the acts I see (Saturdays that we are not gigging) use a separate mixer as they can position it within easy reach. For that, Yamaha make a version of the Stagepass without a mixer. It’s the DXL1K. However the RCF systems do sound very nice if a little more expensive.

I know where it is, its Norf.

I have been recording my playing, trying to decide which bass to use on Saturday and I am really noticing that when I fret on the E string, I get a hammer on before playing the note. It puts an emphasis I do not want. Clearly my technique is crap but how can I avoid it?

I do it all the time especially on the E string but it is unintentional. If I could control it, I would be delighted.

Nice bloke and easy transaction. Thanks.

All finished, neck fitted and retiring with new set oh Newtone Platinum round core strings. Plays much better and will improve further once final relief and string grit is adjusted.

Since you insist, neck after levelling and crowning underway.

The ferrets got away but I decided to do a full fret level. Now on the crowning and polishing part. Oh and my technique is cr4p so no showing off for me.

Call yourself a musician?