Chienmortbb

Are we looking at EVO III soon?

None at all. Phil's philosophy is to use battens so that is is a simple build for those with basic tools. Using dowels should be OK but be careful that you use enough adhesive to make an airtight seal.

Well they can but most of the current moulded cabinets are a compromise, and in general, the lower the cost the higher the compromise. To make a moulded cab as strong and non resonant as a well designed wooden cabinet means a great deal of expense and a lot of engineering. Look at the amount of bracing you can see externally on these. However every cabinet is a compromise and some moulded cabinets work well. Incidently these weigh 17Kgs as a passive cabinet and cost about £500 new.

Same here, reciever on pedal board, we also use and X18, if only that was as solid as the Smoothound. One thing, I use it on the longer latency setting. That gives more protection against interference. If you have set it to the shorter setting, maybe switch back?

The trouble is that the drop test is usually followed by what is known as a Bouncer, a product that keeps coming back for repair.

I'm glad it is being used Pete.

Sorry for some reason my computer keeps posting twice.

Its not as bad as some but you can hear it in a home setting.

I agree but the fan is not quiet on mine. Look out for how to quieten a fan thread soon. I wonder why no one has a stage/studio switch like some amps had in the past?

Back on track(ish). I still have one Beyma 12CVM2 12" driver, suitable for this Easy Build 12" Cab.

@Phil StarrI have not modelled it in such a small cab, and having a bigger magnet, voice coil it may be too heavy but is that a good project for the Fane 10-300?

I am sorry for sending this thread off track so this will be my last contribution on posts (at least until the next time). Those RCF speakers are excellent as are many others without round ports. I would happily use those if supplied at a gig for FOH applications and I know a number of people on here and Talkbass use them for backline/monitoring successfully. However for this project the round port is both easiest to implement and gives the best result.

What model is it?

I have just been reading an 11 year old thread on Talkbass about this very problem. Markbass and others including the Music Tribe group (Behringer, Bugera, TC Electronic, TC Helicon and more) will only give service manuals or circuit diagrams (schematics to our friends over the pond) to authorised Service Centres. Now there is a nasty rumour that class D amps and SMPS power supplies cannot be fixed. They are harder but this is bullshine. Even my 70 years old eyes can see surface mount components and remove and replace them without a great deal of trouble. So I just made the decision to avoid MB and Music Tribe in future. Small problem here in that I have a Bugera Amp but that will soon be relegated to spare. I used to work for Panasonic UK and you could buy a Service Manual for a few pounds. Anyone not just an Authorised Service Centre.

Every cloud has a Hi Ho

Actually no one is a no one.

According to Duke Le Jeune, a respected designer of bass cabinets, cone rock only occurs if the port is directly behind, but off centre, to the driver. In one of the threads in Talkbass he goes into detail about he got, and solved the problem of cone rock, with the help of Eminence's technical department. This is opinion. Corner ports are a type of slot port and they break several of the conventions. Firstly as @Phil Starrhas already mentioned, @steviehas demonstrated to me and @Phil Starrthat a single large round port is better than several small ones*. There is no good reason to suspect that this is not true of multiple corner ports. So why do people use slot or triangular/corner ports. Firstly they act as bracing and secondly they negate the need for an expensive moulded port**. Remember that the wood that creates the slot or corner port is effectively an offcut of the main cabinet panels or a much cheaper material. *This was why the Mk3 version of the BC112 cabinet had one large port instead of four on the MK1. ** A part costing £1 at manufacture will probably end up £3-4 on retail price.