Chienmortbb

I often find the G string too tight, what is it like on these??

They may be the flats for me then. I trie dtye Korean Olympia flats last time and they were good but the G string was so tight (resists the urge for a crude similie) it was hard to play. I have always avoid the TI Flats route as I suspect the tension would be too low for me.

I have not heard the term crushed blacks since I retired and no it is not a racist term. Camera or camera son?

I have to be honest, whenever they do an "All About The Bass", I can only watch if the bloke with the beard is not on. His voice is like fingernails on a blackboard to me.

I think you have put in words what I am feeling.

Thanks for the information.I am quiite happy to mod if needed. My initial thought was to go for a Jazz as I have never owned a Jazz but then I do like the P/J setup.

I have always loved non Fender basses. I have a Fender Aerodyne which I love but of course this is not really a Fender. So I have several basses some of which will be for sale on here shortly and want to have just 2. I am looking at two options in the £500 region, the FGN Magic Jazz (FujiGen, Fuji General) https://fgnguitars.com/eb/mightyjazz/bmj-g/ Or the G&L SB2 https://glguitars.com/product/sb-2-2/ Has anyone experience of either of these basses?

I was surprised at the idea that Ashdown had been sold. It would make sense if Ashdown had purchased TE from Peaveu though.

The Mesa deal is done they are now part of Gibson, is that bad news for bass players? Trace enthusiasts might think so. On the YouTube channel, Know Your Gear, It was also touted that either Ashdown or Trace Ellott had also been sold, possibly to Cort. I must stress that I can find no corroboration for this. Has anyone any more info?

I bought a Washburn many years ago, made in china but superb quality. I will post the model number when I stops raining and I can get to the mancave. I have also played a lot of Yamahas and always found them top notch. I am not a great fan of the Fenders I have seen or played and really did not like the Gretsch Jim Dandy's I have tried but that was a tonal thing rather than playability. When buying an acoustic secondhand you must be very careful, even the high end acoustics can suffer form big problems as they age, especially around the bridge.

BFM is correct about 15 tops, unless they are crossed over much lower than most commercial cabs are capable of, there will be severe beaming. However you are where you are. Can I ask you to list all of your equipment so we can see if here is another way to use what you have?

As you can see I have been playing with my Picoscope PC oscilloscope. The frequency response plots are from some software designed by another Picoscope user. The Picoscope oscilloscope has an arbitrary waveform generator built in as well as the capability to do many other measurements. The output of the preamp with a 1V input signal is 6.73V RMS with a +/-15V rail. That should be enough to fully drive the 50ASX2 power amp although I have yet to measure the output of my bass. The headphone/mute switch works well and the output of the 4556 op-amps is more than enough to drive my headphones. The waterslide decals did not perform as well as hoped. For my partially finished head amp, I used laser waterslide decals for the legend and it worked really well. Sadly the laser printer is not working so I had to use the inkjet. Well the inkjet decals were thinnner and did not take the colour well. I have decided to just spray over legend that is cleary now wrong and leave the rest unlabled. The reason is that I only really intended to build a better practice amp with availble parts. Whilst I had to order a few things, as it stands I have achieved that and it would take a lot of work to take it to the next level. The amp sound great. It is a very neautral sound, not sterile as all. On the floor there is plenty of low end and enough control to get a really nice sound using my Aerodyne Bass. All that now remains is a touch up of the tuffcab where the port was installed and for the grille to be installed. Please accept my apologies for the quality of the images and the fact that I inadvertantly selected video rather than photos for some. IMG_4283.MOV IMG_4284.MOV IMG_4282.MOV IMG_4281.MOV IMG_4280.MOV

I have had one for years. Good points small lightweight. Canb be noisy depending on the settings but overall a usefull little device. You have to play about with the EQ as it is and don't use the high gain setting.

This may seem like a zombie thread but since the last post I have been building the After Eighty small combo based on an Ashdown After Eight . In the next few weeks I will finish that and come back to this build.

As @Passinwind mentions, I did some frequency response plots of the preamp at extremes of the EQ settings. Here they are: Flat all EQ set to 12 o'clock.EQ at The small dip at 2KHz is only 0.5dB and would not be enough to hear. ON the later revision of the pre-amp, there was an optional fully Parametric Equaliser PEQ combined with an High Pass Filter. The PEQ could be used to take out the 2KHz dip if required. I am using those two circuits on mmy self build amp head that will be finished once I have finished this build, Bass Control Fully Up Bass Control Fully Down Middle Fully Up Middle Fully Down Treble Fully Up Treble Fully Down

I have changed the 100R resistors i the DI output to 220R and added the Zeners as per Rod Elliotts bass amp design. The whole amp is now together but I need to reduce the gain of the AUX input somewhat as it over powers the bass. I need to investigate further as the volume seems a little low. I will get the oscilloscope out tomorrow and check the levels. I have ordered the waterslide decal paper so that I can label the added features. If I cannot get a good match to the existing text colour, I may respray the control panel to do it.

Those can be quite hard to use PhilIf you are not at 90o to the work they can snatch, almost spraining your wrist. In addition you need a heavy duty drill and the weight of that, plus the hole cutter, is hard on the wrist.

I would echo what is said above about the SW Bass Bash. It is a greta way to check out all kinds of gear but you would have to be patient.

You are right that you should never connect or disconnect a jack speaker cable with the power on. Yoy are wrong in that very few Plug/Jack combinations can happily work with a 500W amp safely. Many Jack uockets and plugs are made for signals and are good for only 0.5 amps. Using the power law, that is only 2 watts into 8 ohms and 1 watt intio 4 ohms. The best jack socket for speakers is the one in the Neutrik combo speakons (the green ones) these are good for 10 amps or 800 watts with an 8 ohm speaker and 400 watts with a 4 ohm speaker. But why use a jack cable when you have a speakon socket capable of 20 amps, that is 3200 watts into 8 ohms and 1600 watts into 4 ohms.

You are correct except about the choice of cable. For a bass rig no one really needs more that 1.5mm2 cable. 2.5mm2 and 4mm2 are for high power PA rigs with long cable runs.

I was joking.

Too much amp overhang for my liking lol.

You are right the with all controls at half pot travel, many amps are not flat, my point was that the two main amps I use are both ruller flat to the extremes of their frequency responses, although both exhibit low end roll off (An HPF). I agree that sound changes as an amp is pushed but we have several things in play then. Apart form the amp, the speakers change chariteristics when pushed harder and our own ears react differently to different SPLs as identified in the Fletcher-Munson Curves.

I recently did a frequency response sweep on both my Bugera Veyron and Ashdown Mibass 2.0 and both were flat with all EQ set to 12 o'clock. The only difference was that (from memory) the built in HPFs were quite different.

Profanity filters are usually built into forum software. Must be hard if you are running a porn forum.