Chienmortbb

Servisol has been used for years in the UK electronics industry and in my 50 years in the industry has been useful for cleaning switches and pots. Never use WD40 or other spray lubricants. I have hear good things about deoxit but I cannot comment as I have never used it. However as with anything, less is more. A short spray usually suffices and again, in my own experience, cleaning can only be effective once. As for capacitors, I replaced all the electrolytics on my 50 year old HH amp about 3 years ago but kept all the caps. I recently decided to check them and all of them were within the =/-20% tolerance quoted. So if it ain't broke don't fix it.

Are you having to cut your rates?

That’s what I suspected. Salt I don’t think much will change on the 21st unless hospitalisations stay very low.

I joined a long established band of weekend warriors January 2020 and we had several gigs booked thoughout the year. So far we have two Charity Gigs booked and looking at some of the local pubs/clubs it looks like they are concentrating on the pro-karaoke singers, you know the ones that just sing to backing tracks through a Bose PA. Are others finding it hard?

Those run in the free band 863-865MHz and that is incredibly crowded. Radio mics and all sort of other devices. It is also suseptable from 4G phones. I had to change our radio mic at the football club to a Ch38 version as we had so much interference. A crowded room would probably be the same. Of course I might be wrong but I would be wary.

I would concur with maost of what is said above. Te Guitars and Woods levelling beams are not guaranteed flat, go for Crimson, more expensive but better made and really flat. A notched staright edge is essntial. As for re-crowning, if you are only doing your own instruments, Little Bone from Rectify Master, Japan although I understand that shipments from Japan are delayed at the moment.

Be careful, although A denotes Audio* in American, it was always B in the UK. I usually use either OMEG or Alpha pots and the OMEGs use the British convention and the Alphas the US convention. Incidently, there is nothing special about CTS pots, they were easy to obtain for Leo so he used them, the same goes for the woods he used on his instruments. All native North American species. I recently fitted some DiMarzios to my Aerodyne PJ and used their wiring diagrams, as advised by their tech team. They use logarithmic pots and seem to give more control than on any passive bass I have had before. YMMV *Audio Taper is really a logarithmic or log pot.

Do you mean like this:

Even if the input lead had gone open circuit, the light should still come on although you might have to press the footswitch. Most pedals us a stereo jack socket on the input, When a jack plug is inserted it connects the OV in the circuit to the -ve of the battery/power supply.

It is usually very stable but i thinks , and hope, you are correct.

I have just re-read your original post and I would say that with an RM500 and a Helix, you can try out many optiions and probably get everything you want from that combination (except the weight).

Roqsolid or Hot Covers. I have used both and both are excellent.

Yes it seems stable now but it does show the need to have more than a single bass. Thanks for your input.

The two main issues are, Hum with AC heaters and some extra heat with DC heater supplies. On balance I think I would go DC as I would not want 50/60Hz anywhere near my amplifying devices.

I must say that those two shiny transformers look so good although my back is twinging already.

Slightly off topic. I don't remember where I saw it but recently someone was restoring an old valve amp and intended to replace the transformers. Having made transformers at EMI in the late 60s, I don't think manufacturing methods or materials have improved to the point that there is any point in changing the "iron". Or have I missed something?

An awful lot of people on here use Barefaced so they must be doing something right. The question is what do you want from a cab? They are very lightweight and despite what some say, generally durable. They can be loud with highish thermal ratings but they are no more sensitive than many others. The cabs without tweeters have a limited top end obviously and to me sound dull. However that suits many on here that I respect. I understand Alex at Barefaced is willing to give customers individual advice so why not call him?

This is true but for sensitivity you should use that voltage that gives 1W, so if the driver is 4 ohms, the input should be 2 volts.

I was playing it for a few days and finding it fharder and harder to play without really fingering and plucking immaculately. I had played it the days before and thought it needed adjusting, but maybe I was adapting to it each day. It was a shock to see it though.

In hindsight that was a silly thing for me to say.

Neither of those PUPS is in the classic P Bass position but it looks like a nice bass.

Why the funk did I sell my Thunder 1A? OK the preamp could be noisy at the extremes but that neck.....mmm

Yes you are right. I had to turn is between 3/4 and 1 turn which is a lot. I have have only touched it ocasionally when the seaosn change and when fitting new strings.

Oh dear me too. Been meaning to try them and at that price its a no brainer (i have no brain).

Yes it's Grounddog day. (chien is French for dog)