Chienmortbb

We were due to rehearse on Sunday but our drummer had to isolate until Tuesday. Who knows when we will rehearse again let alone gig.

Sadly all my optimisn has gone.

Sadly Pete they are only worth what someone will pay for them.

The reason I asked is that the MiBass 2.0 has symmetric diodes after an opamp (see below). I like the sound as you turn up the gain and dig in. I wondered how the change might affect its sound. It is also has a true gain control.

I saw the assymetric diodes on the DOD diagram in your post, without seeing that you were quoting @paul_5.

In the top picture, the clipping will be symmetrical as the two sets of diode operate equally on the top and bottom of the waveform. The bottom one will clip the top of the waveform more than the bottom.

What difference does it make to the sound if you have symetric diodes rather than the asymetric ones in this circuit?

I have not played through any Ampeg kit but I do object to you lumping HiFi (by which I suppose you mean FRFR) and toppy cabs. A well designed full range cab is not toppy but a cab with a cheap tweeter of whatever type, incorrectly crossed over, is appalling.

On the grub screw length problem, you can buy shorter ones.

I would buy 10 of the Sound City heads I had in the late 60s plus.............

You are quite right but for me the preference for a lightweight Class D head comes from necessity, I can no longer hump two large lumps of iron around at close to 69. So yes that puts valve amps out of the question. I love my old HH amps but they were designed to sit on top of a 4x12 and my cabinets are smaller than that. Even the best Class A/B amps (ABM) overhang my current cabs. I think of it like this. If I were a mechanic, I would use Facom or Snap-On tools, but for me my Lidl spanner set works, has never let me down. The same goes for my amps, The Bugera Veyron has never let me down and is manageable and does not look silly on top of my cabinet. Another point, modern cabinets are smaller. It made sense for big wide amps when sat atop a cabinet 2ft6 wide (750mm approx). Newer cabinets tend to be designed single or vertically aligned speakers as speaker design and drivers have evolved.

The patches on tho seem a lot less gimmicky than the standard patches on the B1 ON. Have you kept any of them?

Thanks for that. I have just got one so those are going on tomorrow.

Some info on laminated and whole wood necks. https://youtu.be/C3ZECDPBmRk

@Passinwindhas a design and I have some PCBs for it but I don’t know how close it is to the Alembic/Wal. You can get three PCBs from OSHPark or I have a spare one. You can find details over on the other place https://www.talkbass.com/wiki/pw3b-lpf-open-source-onboard-preamp/

Thanks that is nice and easy.

Yes. I could just put some epoxy under it but that is a bit permanant.

The Perspex panel on the bass is vibrating with low notes on the E and B string. Has anyone else had this and how did you fix it?

Probably a re-imagining of the MAG series but I will say one thing. The headphone socket is 3.5mm someone has actually USED the headphone output and realise that headphones usually come with a 3.5mm not a 1/4" plug.

I believe that is the same amp/preamp combo that was in my BLX130 and I can only agree with you.

As far as I know that is class A/B with Mosfet output stages like the old Trace amps.

Yes I thing the OP meant class A/B.

You have built a P/J version of a Westone Thunder. Looks great by the way.

What the feck has need got to do with it? On another note, I asked someone at Ashdown what the best amp they have ever made was tghe answer was ABM series, No question!