Chienmortbb

I like Yamaha basses I have an RBX 5 string and it is awesome. I have gone down the route of upgrading everything on a bass and, IMHO the bridge is that last thing I would change.Those BOBT bridges are more than good enough and often the "high mass" AKA heavy bridges actually add nothing to the tone.

My best friend had a light show using several Rank Aldis Tutor 2 projectors. One trick was to use a tank (two glass slides stuck together on three sides with car body filler). Then the oil and inks were put in and the heat from the bulb produced some interesting effects. Of course light show were always pushing the boundaries and some of the most spectacular effects were when Isopropyl Alcohol was added to the tank. I was a little nervous at the time and Elf and Safe T would not allow it now but WOW.

Our drummer sudeenly devided he could not play a songe we had played several times live (Can't Gert Enough, Bad Company) To be fair we had not played it for 6 months or so but try as he might he could not get it again.

I have a spare PH170 horn and the Compression driver CDX1-1445 as used with the crossover I posted on the last page. PM me if interested.

I listened to this on Saturday for the first time listening to tha bass, wow.

Provbably already has.

Sometimes the best bet is to take the pot apart.

Well done.

Thats what I thought.

Servisol has been used for years in the UK electronics industry and in my 50 years in the industry has been useful for cleaning switches and pots. Never use WD40 or other spray lubricants. I have hear good things about deoxit but I cannot comment as I have never used it. However as with anything, less is more. A short spray usually suffices and again, in my own experience, cleaning can only be effective once. As for capacitors, I replaced all the electrolytics on my 50 year old HH amp about 3 years ago but kept all the caps. I recently decided to check them and all of them were within the =/-20% tolerance quoted. So if it ain't broke don't fix it.

Are you having to cut your rates?

That’s what I suspected. Salt I don’t think much will change on the 21st unless hospitalisations stay very low.

I joined a long established band of weekend warriors January 2020 and we had several gigs booked thoughout the year. So far we have two Charity Gigs booked and looking at some of the local pubs/clubs it looks like they are concentrating on the pro-karaoke singers, you know the ones that just sing to backing tracks through a Bose PA. Are others finding it hard?

Those run in the free band 863-865MHz and that is incredibly crowded. Radio mics and all sort of other devices. It is also suseptable from 4G phones. I had to change our radio mic at the football club to a Ch38 version as we had so much interference. A crowded room would probably be the same. Of course I might be wrong but I would be wary.

I would concur with maost of what is said above. Te Guitars and Woods levelling beams are not guaranteed flat, go for Crimson, more expensive but better made and really flat. A notched staright edge is essntial. As for re-crowning, if you are only doing your own instruments, Little Bone from Rectify Master, Japan although I understand that shipments from Japan are delayed at the moment.

Be careful, although A denotes Audio* in American, it was always B in the UK. I usually use either OMEG or Alpha pots and the OMEGs use the British convention and the Alphas the US convention. Incidently, there is nothing special about CTS pots, they were easy to obtain for Leo so he used them, the same goes for the woods he used on his instruments. All native North American species. I recently fitted some DiMarzios to my Aerodyne PJ and used their wiring diagrams, as advised by their tech team. They use logarithmic pots and seem to give more control than on any passive bass I have had before. YMMV *Audio Taper is really a logarithmic or log pot.

Do you mean like this:

Even if the input lead had gone open circuit, the light should still come on although you might have to press the footswitch. Most pedals us a stereo jack socket on the input, When a jack plug is inserted it connects the OV in the circuit to the -ve of the battery/power supply.

It is usually very stable but i thinks , and hope, you are correct.

I have just re-read your original post and I would say that with an RM500 and a Helix, you can try out many optiions and probably get everything you want from that combination (except the weight).

Roqsolid or Hot Covers. I have used both and both are excellent.

Yes it seems stable now but it does show the need to have more than a single bass. Thanks for your input.

The two main issues are, Hum with AC heaters and some extra heat with DC heater supplies. On balance I think I would go DC as I would not want 50/60Hz anywhere near my amplifying devices.

I must say that those two shiny transformers look so good although my back is twinging already.

Slightly off topic. I don't remember where I saw it but recently someone was restoring an old valve amp and intended to replace the transformers. Having made transformers at EMI in the late 60s, I don't think manufacturing methods or materials have improved to the point that there is any point in changing the "iron". Or have I missed something?