Chienmortbb

No disrespect to @KiOgon but the wiring will have little effect on the sound. His pre-wired systems are very neat and easy to install but to claim anything else is misleading.

Sounds like pickup height to me too. Adjust for string balance not a fixed distance to the strings,

The recent reviews of the Halfords etch primer suggests it is smooth, My progress is slow, I am now away until Friday and then busy all day Saturday and Sunday. Good news is that I got some Supernova colour (black) paint in a tester pot from Wilkinson at £1.25. More than enough to paint the baffle. I was so excited that I painted it immediately, forgetting that I had not put the grill support battens in yet! The picture shows the baffle with two coats of paint and I have enough paint left for two more. I have also stuck the wadding in the lower half of the cabinet, I will do the remainder once I have installed the wiring onto crossover. The wadding may look different to the other cabinets as I am using the remainder of the wadding left over from the MK2 build that I currently gig. It is much messier than the one specified but I am convinced ( I.e. hoping) that it is as good or better. Ironically now the cabinet is fully glued up, it is much squarer than I expected when I found the bow in one side. So Banaba cab is now cucumber cab.

You make sure that primer on the skirting is good and dry before you put the top coat on 😂. Another tip, put the port in the freezer before fitting. It will contract and go in the hole easily. Then, as it rises to room temp, it will expand to fit the hole tightly.

You don’t have to write off the Celestion but It will not go so loud as modelled and (unless I entered some parameters wrong) has more bass extension than the Beyma. This was the thing Phil was trying to design out. However it will not take as much power and will only get to about 113-114dB. The Beymas will get to 120dB+. So I would build with the Celestion as the others should slot straight in if you want to upgrade at a later date.

I routed the hole for the handle on my MK2 cab and regretted it. It just does not look right. Yes I routed the recess slightly too wide but as mentioned, the round over on the handle looks better when the handle is mounted on top in my opinion.

Based on Phil's cabinet the BL-12-200X will work but it will be limited in output. I have modeled the following speakers Celestion BL12-200X Beyma SM212 Fane 12-300 Beyma 12CMV2 Of these the "league table" is as follows: Beyma SM212 Beyma 12CMV Fane Sovereign 12-300 Celestion BL12-200X In terms of cost, lowest first as of 13th October 2019 BL12-200X (not sure what you paid for it) Beyma 12CVM2. £44.34 (£50.40 inc delivery) - Blue Aran Jam Club £49.30 inc Fane Sovereign 12-300 £69.88, free delivery - Blue Aran Jam Club £65.69 inc Beyma SM212 £86.21 (£90.31 inc delivery) - Blue Aran JAM Club £88.15 inc To sum up, if you had to buy a speaker for the cabinet, I would choose the Beyma 12CVM2. It is close to the performance of the SM212 but a lot cheaper. If anyone wants to see the plots, I will post them.

No that looks like the correct bowl but the handle is wrong.

I think you are right about the glue. A really good coating and using the rubber mallet (if you have not got one you should have) or a hammer with a sacrificial piece of wood, Gently tap from the centre to the ends to ensure the joint is well seated all the way along. This encourages any surplus adhesive to squeeze out at the ends rather than pooling midway along the joint. Then use the clamps. I used two, one at each end and one through the woofer hole. I should have used more at least one at each joint (4). I suggest this way as I am sure this was where I went wrong. Finally check that there is a perfect 90 degree angle between the two pieces. One other point. It should be OK to screw the top/bottom at each corner, if required until the glue sets. Make sure the carcass is fully dry before drilling or driving the screws home. The metal corners will hide any cosmetic imperfections after the hole is filled. Firstly drill a pilot hole through the top/ bottom into the corner of the carcass. I use a 2/2.5mm drill for that. Then a clearance hole through the top/bottom only, 4mm. Do not use a countersunk screw . Of course if you have too many clamps.....*. Once the glue has dried you can either counterbore the hole driving the screw below the surface then fill the hole, or just fill the hole. I will post pictures early next week. * There is no such thing as too many clamps or too many basses (he said as he bid on a fiver).

I am sure Phil would answer soon enough but there are few 12” speakers at a reasonable price that would work well in a 30 litre cabinet. However, if you can wait a few hours I will model it for you.

Hot Covers is the other main maker.

Yes fall of or fall away is a good idea.

A good place to start is by using the Fender setup document. Of course some of the settings are “to taste’ but it is a good starting point.

They were just short of £1000 rrp here. I got mine via a personal import from Japan. Cost just under £500 inc insurance and shipping. Add £70 import duty and Igot a bargain.

Does anyone plan on building 2?

Good idea. I suspect at least 50% will want a cover. Count me in.

I have heard that before but the stock pups in mine are fine. My jazz is one of the really early ones without a pickguard or the Jazz type control panel. It also has the higher mass bridge that was changed at some point in production.

I agree with that. I usually use more glue but followed the instructions on the bottle to the letter. I had virtually no squeeze out and that would worry me if my mistake had not been glued firmly on. Of course PVA sticks very well to dried PVA so there is no problem coating the wood first. My only worry, and maybe my problem was that it the walls of both the routed channel and the mating board swell that could cause a problem.

Having thought about this I suggest that during the dry fit, a pencil line is drawn all around the baffle where is meets the sides, top and bottom. That will show up any problems when the dry fit is disassembled and will also have shown the error when I glued it together. ít is also probably worth doing that with the braces too.

Very good shout.

The Behringer are very prone to loosing WiFi from cheaper wireless systems. My Smoothound is fine but when our guitarist uses his £50 one it swamps the Behringer. The best bet is to use a wireless router linked to the mixer by cable. Then use the 5GHz band to connect as there are far fewer 5GHz devices to interfere. For complete peace of mind use a computer connected by a Cat5/6 Ethernet cable.

Probably best to use a tissue rather than toilet paper Phil. Tissues are designed to resist big blows ( of the nose) while toilet tissue is designed to disintegrate when moist.

All good tips. The straight edge is a good test. If the joint is flush top and bottom and there is less than1mm gap at any point, You should be OK. I did use clamps from the speaker and port cutouts but in the end it was my failure to check that did for me. The other side is under 0.5mm our top to bottom. I don’t think you would see it direct from the front, I only noticed it by looking along the side as I undid the clamps. It says something for the design though that it is still square top and bottom. After sleeping on it over night (the thought of living with the error not the cabinet), I am OK with it.

Good shout Luke. I tried to make do with the clamps I had and made a slight error. I clearly did not check that the side panel was correctly seated all the way along and have a 2mm curve on one side. The cab is square too and bottom and one painted, I doubt anyone but me would notice. I did investigate ways of loosening the glue, by heat, to try to reposition it but the glue holding the plywood together is usually only guaranteed to 100 degrees C. I suspect I would have to excesd that to loosen the joint glue, running the risk of plywood De-lamination. So mine really is one of a kind, I give you Banana Cab