Chienmortbb

I was surprised at the idea that Ashdown had been sold. It would make sense if Ashdown had purchased TE from Peaveu though.

The Mesa deal is done they are now part of Gibson, is that bad news for bass players? Trace enthusiasts might think so. On the YouTube channel, Know Your Gear, It was also touted that either Ashdown or Trace Ellott had also been sold, possibly to Cort. I must stress that I can find no corroboration for this. Has anyone any more info?

I bought a Washburn many years ago, made in china but superb quality. I will post the model number when I stops raining and I can get to the mancave. I have also played a lot of Yamahas and always found them top notch. I am not a great fan of the Fenders I have seen or played and really did not like the Gretsch Jim Dandy's I have tried but that was a tonal thing rather than playability. When buying an acoustic secondhand you must be very careful, even the high end acoustics can suffer form big problems as they age, especially around the bridge.

BFM is correct about 15 tops, unless they are crossed over much lower than most commercial cabs are capable of, there will be severe beaming. However you are where you are. Can I ask you to list all of your equipment so we can see if here is another way to use what you have?

As you can see I have been playing with my Picoscope PC oscilloscope. The frequency response plots are from some software designed by another Picoscope user. The Picoscope oscilloscope has an arbitrary waveform generator built in as well as the capability to do many other measurements. The output of the preamp with a 1V input signal is 6.73V RMS with a +/-15V rail. That should be enough to fully drive the 50ASX2 power amp although I have yet to measure the output of my bass. The headphone/mute switch works well and the output of the 4556 op-amps is more than enough to drive my headphones. The waterslide decals did not perform as well as hoped. For my partially finished head amp, I used laser waterslide decals for the legend and it worked really well. Sadly the laser printer is not working so I had to use the inkjet. Well the inkjet decals were thinnner and did not take the colour well. I have decided to just spray over legend that is cleary now wrong and leave the rest unlabled. The reason is that I only really intended to build a better practice amp with availble parts. Whilst I had to order a few things, as it stands I have achieved that and it would take a lot of work to take it to the next level. The amp sound great. It is a very neautral sound, not sterile as all. On the floor there is plenty of low end and enough control to get a really nice sound using my Aerodyne Bass. All that now remains is a touch up of the tuffcab where the port was installed and for the grille to be installed. Please accept my apologies for the quality of the images and the fact that I inadvertantly selected video rather than photos for some. IMG_4283.MOV IMG_4284.MOV IMG_4282.MOV IMG_4281.MOV IMG_4280.MOV

I have had one for years. Good points small lightweight. Canb be noisy depending on the settings but overall a usefull little device. You have to play about with the EQ as it is and don't use the high gain setting.

This may seem like a zombie thread but since the last post I have been building the After Eighty small combo based on an Ashdown After Eight . In the next few weeks I will finish that and come back to this build.

As @Passinwind mentions, I did some frequency response plots of the preamp at extremes of the EQ settings. Here they are: Flat all EQ set to 12 o'clock.EQ at The small dip at 2KHz is only 0.5dB and would not be enough to hear. ON the later revision of the pre-amp, there was an optional fully Parametric Equaliser PEQ combined with an High Pass Filter. The PEQ could be used to take out the 2KHz dip if required. I am using those two circuits on mmy self build amp head that will be finished once I have finished this build, Bass Control Fully Up Bass Control Fully Down Middle Fully Up Middle Fully Down Treble Fully Up Treble Fully Down

I have changed the 100R resistors i the DI output to 220R and added the Zeners as per Rod Elliotts bass amp design. The whole amp is now together but I need to reduce the gain of the AUX input somewhat as it over powers the bass. I need to investigate further as the volume seems a little low. I will get the oscilloscope out tomorrow and check the levels. I have ordered the waterslide decal paper so that I can label the added features. If I cannot get a good match to the existing text colour, I may respray the control panel to do it.

Those can be quite hard to use PhilIf you are not at 90o to the work they can snatch, almost spraining your wrist. In addition you need a heavy duty drill and the weight of that, plus the hole cutter, is hard on the wrist.

I would echo what is said above about the SW Bass Bash. It is a greta way to check out all kinds of gear but you would have to be patient.

You are right that you should never connect or disconnect a jack speaker cable with the power on. Yoy are wrong in that very few Plug/Jack combinations can happily work with a 500W amp safely. Many Jack uockets and plugs are made for signals and are good for only 0.5 amps. Using the power law, that is only 2 watts into 8 ohms and 1 watt intio 4 ohms. The best jack socket for speakers is the one in the Neutrik combo speakons (the green ones) these are good for 10 amps or 800 watts with an 8 ohm speaker and 400 watts with a 4 ohm speaker. But why use a jack cable when you have a speakon socket capable of 20 amps, that is 3200 watts into 8 ohms and 1600 watts into 4 ohms.

You are correct except about the choice of cable. For a bass rig no one really needs more that 1.5mm2 cable. 2.5mm2 and 4mm2 are for high power PA rigs with long cable runs.

I was joking.

Too much amp overhang for my liking lol.

You are right the with all controls at half pot travel, many amps are not flat, my point was that the two main amps I use are both ruller flat to the extremes of their frequency responses, although both exhibit low end roll off (An HPF). I agree that sound changes as an amp is pushed but we have several things in play then. Apart form the amp, the speakers change chariteristics when pushed harder and our own ears react differently to different SPLs as identified in the Fletcher-Munson Curves.

I recently did a frequency response sweep on both my Bugera Veyron and Ashdown Mibass 2.0 and both were flat with all EQ set to 12 o'clock. The only difference was that (from memory) the built in HPFs were quite different.

Profanity filters are usually built into forum software. Must be hard if you are running a porn forum.

A 2 pole plug will go into a 4 pole socket but not the other way round. A 4 pole plug will NOT fit a 2 pole socket.

I have been in electronics since I left School and have done a smaall amount of coding/programming professionally, The thing I should always remember is that a good knight's sleep often gives you the answer. I forgot that the outputs of the opamps in the circuit above have 100 ohm resistors in line. With my headphones being connected in parallel and having a combined impedance of 16* ohms, the output will be attenuated by 15-16dB (* the exact amount depends on the impedance of the heaphones at a particulat frequency). So by taking the output directly from the opamp output, the headphones will recieve more power. Unfortunately this means soldering a wire directly onto the PCB but as much of the preamp is hardwired, it is not a massive problem.

Dave (@obbm) has retired and I have now got much of his stock so drop me a PM if you need anything.

I hope you are sorted however I bought much of OBBM's stock, including speakon connectors so it you need a specific cable, please let me know.

So I have finally finished the amp section of the After Eighty. I have connected the headphones only when the mute/standby switch is activated. The headphone side needs more gain as if you disconnect the headphones, the speaker output is so much louder. However the sound of the amp (through my 8" PA Cab) is really nice, I can't wait to try it with its own cabinet. Now it is time to sort out the cosmetics. The side of the cab where the port is needs sanding and repainting and I need to try to make some decals to reflect the new functions I have added.

After thinking about it for a while I have had a rethink. The headphone PCB is not easy to mount and I was.having second thoughts about using it. I went back to the blog post by NwAvGuy and looked at his measurements of the NJR4556 and it gave excellent results into 15 ohms. My headphones are rated at 32 ohms but my idea is to parallel the L and R earpieces from one side of the NJR4556. This would give an impedance of 16 ohms so that looks feasible. So I will be replacing the NE5532 in the balanced transmitter with an NJR4556 to drive either the amp or headphones. while the 4556 is not that well regarded as an audio device, the measurements show it is well suited to driving headphones and is more that good enough to use to both drive the amp/headphones and the DI out. I recently used a head that (to my surprise) did not mute the speaker output when the headphones were plugged in. I queried it with the manufacturer and was told that they considered that a small lightweight amp would be used without a cabinet with headphones so it was no necessary. Although I originally disagreed, I have to admit there is some merit to the argument. Disconnecting the speaker in a combo is not an option so the speakers must be muted. Luckily I can use a double pole double throw switch to both ground the enable pin on the icepower module (muting the power amp) and divert the signal from the amp input to the headphone jack.

I have laser sheets but ly laser is momo only. I will buy some inkjet ones and see wht they turn out like.