Chienmortbb

It is a minor niggle I agree but the two threads I am interested in just get ignored as they are two long. I suppose the only other way is to suggest that people start a new thread when they have something new to say. This would prevent threads being hijacked or just ranbling on. Socially distanced threads

Some threads become too long and just a public chat between members. the Interesting FRFR thread inAmps and Cabs is one such thread. Anyone wnating to get info on FRFR could wade through thoosands of posts that go off in all directions. Anotgher of these is the DIY Effects thread. As I see it there are two solutions, either limit threads to a certain nymber of posts ( I believe they limit threads to 1000 posst on the other place). Alternatively, if there is enough interest on one thread, it should be considered for its own category,

I heard that Trace often used MDF for the cabinets, is that why the are so heavy.

The. cabinet is now complete and even SWMBO is impressed. The last thing is the grille but as the new speaker is deeper than the original one, it has to be farther away. I Have an idea but will sleep on it.I also need to fit the cabinet corners if I can find the black wood screws. I have decided to replace the External Speaker Jack with a Speakon. I would have preferred the ext speaker connection to be on the back but I found I could cut the hole for a Speakon so that the legend is visible. So the only things on the rear panel are the male XLR out and the ground lift switch. All to be fitted tomorrow. Tomorrow.....I must stop promising progress the next day. Something always pops up but hopefully there will be progress today

Thinking outside the box? I was thinking about the port. I will not move it now but adding 600 grams to the from (the new speaketr is much heavier than the old) and taking out thetransformer and heatsink from the rear, the balance will have shifted forward. It may well be that I have to move the handle forward. That would have alloud the top port I had originally planned. I could also have put the handle(s) front to back or even on one side. Today I will check the paint job and decide whether I need another coat. If not, I will fit the port and connect the amplifier to hear the real sound of the new rig fo the first time.

Painting has commenced. Three coats of Tufcab.

True. The prices charged by ProFusion in the UK are eye watering.

Hard to argue with that quality and pricing.

Yes, Klotz have a reputation to maintain as one of the three best cable manufacturers in the world. I would not expect them to put their name to poor quality goods. The fact that the cables are moulded is not in itself a bad thing, just that for many cables it is sleight of hand hiding poor quality.

Hats off, That looks great. Where did you get the logos printed?

@Passinwind and @nilebodgers have valid points above and I would hate to think I have encouraged anyone to rush headlong into building a low cost, home brew amp from modules purchased from Ebay, Ali Express or Bangood. I have added a safety warning to the first post. Please read it. John

Wrong link, here is the correct one https://www.stakesys.co.uk/hole-punches-hole-saws/q-max-cutters/q-max-cutter-round-metric

I hope I did not suggest the use of some of the suspect eBay amplifiers and power supplies. I am only using ICEPOWER modules as they are properly certified for EMC/EMI and safety. My two concerns with ClassA/Band a linear Power supply are excess weight and heat. Following the ICEPower Designers manual allows that.

OK so no real progress today although after a discussion with "she who must be obeyed", I have decided to use Tuffcab rather than a vinyl covering. She who must be obeyed has done some upholstery and says that the shape is far from for a good finish with vinyl. Paint it like your other cabs she said. So as I already have to Tuffcab, it will be done soon. I am suffering from a chest infection at the moment and have to stay clear of anything dusty, fumey and infectious. Luckily Tuffcab is water based so I can do that, probably tomorrow morning.

Yes his bass amp is a well thought out project, it would be nice to see some PCBs for it although the Class A/B amp would not be my chouce.

Looking forward to it. Seems the price has gone up since you bought it.

will you do any reshaping to the body and what about electrinics/hardware?

I joined my latest band in Feb and we were rehearsing for a late march gig, then had 2-3 gigs per months through the year. I had to shield as did one of the guitarists so we are all wary of infection. We have a large hall for rehersasal but feel its too early for that yet. One gig still on the books for 22nd August but I can't see either us, or the venue wanting that to go ahead. I can see an upsurge in what I call professional Karaoke singers being the norm for some while in the clubs we were booked at. Much easier to accomodate than five big blokes with guitars and drums. Of coures the gigs will be fewer and the pay will be lower but boy do I miss playing live.

I think you may be surprised at how much punishment those M^6 coach bolts will take

OK i have changed the DI circuit (on paper) in line with the need to protect against Phantom Power. The circuit is a cross between the original circuit outlined in Elliot Sound Products Project 14 Amplifier Bridging Adaptor and Project 152 Bass Amplifier. Incidently, I bougt the PCB from Rod Elliiot and hope that if anyone uses these ideas they also buy PCBs to keep his great resource going. Please click on the links below to go to the relevant pages on Rod's website. I have also added the ground lift switch. I have put links to all Rods projects that I have looked at plus a link to the Fender style preamp that could be used in a similar project to this. Click to go to Project14 on Elliot Sound Products Click here to see the DI out circuit on the P152 Bass Amplifier. Link to Project27 including the alternative preamp (PCB available)

QMax cutter? About £14 including vat and delivery. .

Knobs. Originals, below have gone a little bronze, tarnished. The cheapo rubberised ones I used for the testing? They grey Davis style? Combination of grey and black Davis style? Or all black Davis style?

Felt a bit better this afternoon so got on with the cabinet. I used a sone white spirit to wipe the baffle clean before painting and most of the existing paint came off. So mask it off and spray away. it is still drying and needs at least one more coat but it looks better. After that I will coat the cabinet with a thin coat of PVA. The idea is to also coat the covering and let that go slightly tacky then smooth the vinyl with a warm iron on told of a towel. It may work it may be a disaster. Comments and advice welcome. Of course I will be trying it on an off it first.