Chienmortbb

There are some that say run it in and others that say just go for it. Stevie and Phil Starr may have more to say but I would not worry about it. Just use it it will run in by itself.

Normal PP3 batteries are nominally 9v although almosy no manufacturere publishes battery capacity. The Duracell Bunny test is the closest. It would be greta to use rechargeables but most are nominally 8.4V. There are now 9.6V recharcheables and I am thinking of trying some. Has anyone tried them? https://www.componentshop.co.uk/9-6v-220mah-nimh-pp3-battery.html or https://www.amazon.co.uk/Self-Discharge-Precharged-Rechargeable-Batteries-MHR9VP/dp/B01FV0U5WG/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=9.6V+PP3%23&qid=1560604944&s=gateway&sr=8-9

To be fair I play pubs and clubs, a real weekend warrior BUT I was product manager for Panasonic/RAMSA some years ago so I have a little knowledge (dangerous thing). I also had a 100W Sound City stack as a youth with 2 4x12s. I do not suffer from tinnutis despite 1000s of gigs and being 67. I don't agree with everything Joe Bonnamassa says in this artical but there is a grain of truth in what he says. Remember that your instrument is not just your guitar/bass, it is the whole signal chain: Bass Instrument Cable Amp Cable Speaker Room Listeners ears. Change any one and your sound changes. In my experience (YMMV) In-Ears give a rather unnatural sound. They tap into the sound at the cab I feel like I am in an isolation booth, I don't enjoy it and as I play music for enjoyment, they are self defeating for me. Amplifiers, especially guitar amps need to be pushed hard to get the sound, so get the right sized amp for the gig. For most pubs/clubs, 5-15 Watts is adequate .For bass, in general, the volume of the amp/cab does not contribute so much to the sound so again, in my opinio,n the power of the amps is not so relevant. Volume does not affect the sound of the bass anywhere near as much as it does the guitar. For the same pubs/clubs, FOH support is not needed and volume can, and should be, controlled. My band get more compliments when we play quieter. The best band I have ever seen in a pub are Chicago 9. Even the Harp player had his own amp and the PA? A tiny Peavey system, used only for the vocals. In-Ears have their place as does the Soundman or Woman (please don't call them engineers) but for most semi- pro bands the most important members of the band are volume controls. Finally one more issue with In-ears. The size of the driver compared to the volume of your ear canal is massive. There is great danger of ear damage if the volume it too high for too long. Smartphone makers don't put volume limiters on the headphone output for nothing. Volume controls go down as well as up and that is what will protect your ears from over-loud transducers of any size.

The last band i saw using in-ears spent 30 mins seting the monitor mix and none setting the FOH mix. Result was cachophony.

Firstly you cannot ban someone from selling a Gibson as a Gibson, a Fender as a Fender or a Rickenbacker as a Rickenbacker. However of course if Gibson has any kind of IPR on its designs, they are within their rights to protect them. Gibson's problem is that the quality has dropped so badly that some of the so called clones.Tokai for example, make better Gibsons that Gibson. Of course the Epiphone range muddies that water if you don't know that Epiphone is Gibson's "Squier". So before they go after all and sundry, they should invest to ensure that a Gibson Les Paul is better than a Tokai or even Harley Benton. Then they can rightly go after the Jibsons and the Chibsons and boutique clones.

Looking forward to this one.

I decided to go fretless as so many of the frets were lose. Most are already out. Thanks for the info on the white plastic.

I have a kit bass and have decided it should be fretless. What is the best way to fill the fret slots. I was going to use some maple veneer but would appreciate advice on what thickness and whether to have the grain end on or sideways. I hope this makes sense.

Bill is correct that there is little energy bill 40 Hz but with most cabinets which are tuned to give high-efficiency in the passband, the efficiency below 40Hz is high and gets higher as frequency decreases in a bass reflex cabinet. That is why Phil Starr suggests a High Pass Filter in the signal chain. Chuffing may cause some compression and purists would be alarmed at that. My cab has the single large port that Stevie specified but I played through Phil’s rig at a gig on Friday and I heard nothing untoward.

Despite the radio silence, things are progressing. The power module for the prototype will be the 125ASX2 from ICEpower. Why? Because I have one. It is capable of about 270 watts into 8R and that meets the original requirement of the 1x12 cab, keeping up with a heavy handed drummer. It can also output close to 500W into 4R. If two cabs are used the acoustic output will be enough to fill almost anywhere. I will admit that the AS700 module would be my choice but they are much harder to get (unless enough people are interested). I am up to my ears in other things at the moment but I now have most of the components to start on the prototype. Watch this space.

They say one 12" speaker. Surely you need a 2 way at least for a modeller?

Lols like the GE300 will be way more expensive. They are quoting over $900 Canadian which would be around £700 over here. I cannot see that hurting Line 6 at all.

I have found the Fender Grolsch solution better than straploks but one did pop off on me once.

Phil I am up for it. What time do you need me? Are you supplying backline?

I Knew you would COYD the me of I got it wrong Charlie. Thanks.

No it’s an ICEPOWER 700AS1 I BELIEVE pure class d

The point about Class D is that it uses Pulse Width Modulation. If is modulated then amplified and demodulated ( yes it is a form of Modem) I would argue that the PWM output is analogous to the input signal In the same way FM Radio is. It never enters the digital domain. Of course the PWM section could be digitally controlled but that does not make it a digital amplifier as the signal is not digitally processed. Some people think that as digital systems are switching systems, that the switching aspect of class D must be digital. While both are non-linear they are not both digital, Thr French use the word Numerique instead of digital. That is because digital processing is based on the binary or octal numbering systems.

MOSFET is just a different type of transistor it stands for Metal Oxide Silicon Field Effect Transistor. Like valves and bipolar transistors, it can be used in class A, A/B, B, D G or H amps.

DI out would have been great but apart from that it looks lihexaxstrp up from the B1On

Neutrik have kindly sent some airtight connectors to help with the project. The current idea is to put the mains input and Speakon out on the back but all the signal in/outs on the front or top front. Neutrik have supplied some of their new Powercon connectors but we will still need a fuse, an indicator and possibly a switch. The powercon’s are safe to remove while the unit is powered and do not really need a switch. So the question is, do we just need a mute switch rather than a power switch or is a power switch needed? I looked at my current MK2 cab and it is not easy to modify a built cabinet so I am going to use the flat pack when. It comes. I will build and test the circuits outside the cabinet initially and fit the modules into the flat pack when it comes. I checked the output of the Zoom Multi effects units and they are unbalanced but still output 0dBu ( 0.775V) the same as a Helix. So the jack input will be switchable between line and Instrument.

80 Hz is very high. There is no spec on the Thumpinator so it is hard to guess but I suspect it is something below 50 Hz.

Depends when it isand how well I get on with the design. It is October so should be OK.

nd I wa The orientation of the horn has been designed tso that you can hear yourself with the cab vertical. Unless you need to use it as a floor monitor you should be OK. Hopefully Stevie can elaborate.

Funnily enough Charlie, neither am I. What have I let myself in for?

The grille that Stevie is proposing is full height, So rather than change the grille I would suggest top front! In that case the Speakon output would remain on the back, as it is on the passive cabinet, it simplifies the connector plate too. I will look at the position of that once I get my flat pack.