Chienmortbb

I went over to Stevie’s on Monday to look at the counter on his coil winder. As my cab was almost complete he suggested I take it over and he would measure it. The result was that the response was ruler flat to about 5.5KHz, where there was a slight peak and 7KHz where there was a slight dip. According to Stevie, these could be flattened by tweaking the crossover values and were due to differences in the drivers. So could you hear them? No compared to a studio monitor, also in the room, you could not tell the two apart. What this does show is that unless commercial manufacturers individually tune each and every cabinet, there will be differences. This probably applies to active PA cabinets too.

I suspect rear facing drivers will not be allowed until driverless cabs are allowed.

Ironically it makes much more sense now.

Get a foam mic condom. No nasty shocks and you can wash and use them again and again.

The real problem is that the effects will be different depending on the phase of the rear firing speaker and things like the the distance between the driver and any wall or large object. That will mean cancellations at random frequencies. I suspect it would be hard to adjust the sound for different venues.

Our football club PA amp died last week so I used mine as a Power amp driving a 100V line transformer. Worked like a dream.

That proves that all drivers of the same nominal diameter are not equal.

Based on the drawings I expect each hole was 1degree or about 0.5mm offset but the offsets would be the opposite way between adjacent holes. The result is that no hole is exactly right for the handle to be exactly parallel to the front and back. Whether your eye would see it is another matter.

What roller did you use to get that finish.

Manufacturers usually sell at RRP, something dealers never do. In defence of Ashdown there are areas in the country (like mine) where the dealers do not stock Ashdown and Ashdown really do take care of their customers. So while I agree with your general point, I don't think it is totally valid with Ashdown.

Another bonus. Just been playing for over am hour and my neck/shoulder are not complaining. Anyone want to make an offer on some Fender Machine heads? I am now tempted by a carbon fibre/titanium bridge.

I have now fitted the GB640s. I bought a 20mm tapered reamer to widen the holes. It is a tight squeeze but I am very pleased. I did ask Andyjr1515 for his advice and he advised using a crafty knife to scrape away the paint from around the hole before reaming, ream and then widen the inside of the whole with a round file or multitool. .It worked well except I did scratch the headstock with the multi-tool. So what were the advantages and disadvantages? The light weight is great but the real win is the smoothness of the Gotohs. In addition the size of the 640s mean the original fixing holes are hidden. Although the posts are much wider than the original ones, the strings still travel in a straight line from the nut to the machine heads. The downsides? It is a lot of work. Would do it again? Yes but I would have bought the Gotoh GB528s. There would have been no reaming, just new fixing holes and there would have been some existing fixing holes to fill. Of course there are some Hipshot Ultralites that may fit exactly.

Still waiting for my Grille.

I am waiting for the grille, foam strip, corners and 5mm bolts and still need to put the final voats of TufCab on. The deadline is that I have a gig on the 9th. Fingers crossed and pictures to come soon.

We are actually agreeing. Unless the wood is special, I would get it sprayed (I don’t have a spray booth). If the wood is beautiful in its own right I would use the Crimson Oil. I also have used danish oil on my last neck and although it took almost a month to “harden”. Anyway thank you for your contributions on BC. I always enjoy your posts and usually follow them.

I have used Truoil and Danish oil but in my opinion Crimson's Guitar Finishing oil (the original one) https://crimsonguitars.com/store/penetrating-guitar-finishing-oil/. Is the best I have used.

I am not being funny but can you tell me which ones are better?

I had a GK combo like that but the screws sat proud Of the side of the cab. Not friendly to delicate surfaces when Laura on its side. They only needed to countersink the holes. However it is a good idea bit would be more expensive.

I have used about 20 of the HiCon pancake plugs and had no problem.

They look great but I worry about any sealed plug. Sealing a plug can often be hiding a multitude of sins.

Won’t see a Barefaced there though.

Is the “tribute” a Fakenbucker?

As no fan of thermionic valves I could be cheeky and say you will only get a lovely warm drive tone from a solid state amplifier. On a serious note, call Ashdown. Their customer service is awesome.

This is the full link https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SPECIAL-LISTING-10-mm-Holes-Aluminium-Perforated-384-x-567-mm/303340339569?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908103841%26meid%3Df9e8100c53d4447aa9baaa5f236ee2ca%26pid%3D100227%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D13%26sd%3D303340339569%26itm%3D303340339569%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2053904&_trksid=p2053904.c100227.m3827

Great thanks.