Chienmortbb

Just two capacitors, if you can use a soldering iron, I will send you a pair.

These are all class D Amps with switching power supplies and although very efficient, the still produce heat. Usually the total combination is about 80% efficient so at 200 watts, total power is 200 X 100/80or 250 watts. So you still have to dissipate 50 watts of heat. If you can touch it but it is very hot it is likely around 60C, at 70C you cannot keep your finger on it. Many Amps have their over temperature settings between 60-70 degrees. Make sure the space around the amp is clear to aid airflow but in general if the Amp is not cutting out, I would not worry.

I should add that a decent transformer is a lot more expensive than most Passive DIs

'Q' is a measure of the bandwidth of a filter. The higher the Q the more selective the filter. Rough Guide: Lower Q values = broader filter curve and tend to sound more natural. High Q values for targetting (cutting) particular 'problem' frequencies / resonances. I just saw others had answered along the same lines as I didn't see the second page. Q is short for quality where a notch or peak is narrow it is deemed to be high quality as in feedback destroyers. From memory lower “Q” value is higher quality but It is 49 odd years since I studied active filters as my College project so I could be wrong,

Me too, have you done the cap changes for bass?

And higher numbers in cable means smaller. As I said earlier but clearly no one read it. Many 1/4” or 6.35 jack sockets and plugs are rated at 0.5 Amps so not enough for even small powers. In the old days there are few Jack manufacturers such as Switchcraft, Neutrik and Cliff. All those brands have high current products but the manufacturer can only specify the amplifier connector. We can use any old far eastern crap and if you plug the cable into the amp first and then short the tip to the sleeve by accident you could fry your amp. Neutrik have a budget range Rean that do high power plugs that will take big cables and they do get around the capacity problem and the current/power problem but not the accidental shorting.

I have just ordered the Orchid Classic DI and hope to use it this weekend. I will report back then.

The Bass DI from Beringhet is a silver bronze colour so yours is the acoustic DI and voiced accordingly. The BDI-21 sounds good in front of my amp.

I have the BD-I21 and I love it. I put it before my bass modded Marshall ED-1 Compressor last week and everyone commented in the improvement in my sound.

I have recently been using both a GK 200 watt combo and a MiBass 220 Head with various cabs and zi agree with many that say 350 is your minimum. The problem is that Amps are rated into 4 ohms and and give something around half that into 8. So maybe 100 watts? That is not enough for most gigs. A 350 watt will give between 175 and 250 into 8 ohms depending on brand and that gives more headroom. It is also worth repeating that a gain and master volume gives the versatility you need.

Done, hope that helps,

Are you sure the Amoeg will be an upgrade? Seriously though Bill is right that many jacks are rated at 0.5 amps. That is 3 watts into 8 ohms and 1 watt into 4 ohms. Some good jacks are good for higher current/power but you can not be sure what rating either a cable or amp/ cap has. Speakons have a minimum of 20A or 3200 watts into 8 ohms and 1600 into 4 ohms. Finally a well known amp maker is convinced that that jack leads cause more power amp failures than anything else.

I read the Ovnilabs reviews and decided to try the Marshall ED1 with the recommended bass mods. It is all I need and when used with the BDI-21 sounds great.

Mike, it takes a lot of rime efffort and money tou raganise a bash.Shall we start paying to ease the financial incentive burden?

[quote name='owen' timestamp='1495477724' post='3304072'] This one does it for me. It sits in my tuner out and is fine and dandy. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PT-06-Guitar-Pedal-Tuner-Chromatic-Pedal-Tuner-True-Bypass-for-Electric-Guitar-/401195568828?hash=item5d691e8ebc [/quote]Does it mute in tune mode?

+1 for the BDI21. I used mine for the first time at a gig last week and had great comments about my sound. Many talk about a mid scooped sound but it is not massive and although there are mods for this, it sounds good to me.

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1509658196' post='3400713'] The CTM-15 is an all-valve job though... could still be quite hefty! [/quote]If the power supply was Up to it is could put out 35 watts with a square wave. Hardly a monster and “hefty” it ain’t.

[quote name='deepbass5' timestamp='1503233436' post='3356571'] I would just buy an Acme lowB best cab i have owned bracing video - [url="https://youtu.be/uJy3TscsL-U"]https://youtu.be/uJy3TscsL-U[attachment=251744:IMG_0936.JPG][/url] [url="https://youtu.be/uJy3TscsL-U"][attachment=251745:IMG_0936.JPG][/url] [/quote]Why? You sacrifice sensitivity for low end that you do not need.

Phil that sounds so wrong.

If you are using an HPF and getting problems it may be that the cut- off is too low. Also as others have said if those little speakers are complaining, adding more watts will make them complain more and you will run into (more?) power compression.

Duplicate post

[quote name='Merton' timestamp='1499787973' post='3333609'] Does this use the standard ICEPower amp module or something a bit more exotic? [/quote]I am guessing it users the ICEPower.ASX700. The ASX700 is one of the newer modules and probably clad leading.

I wonder if one of the problems here is model numbers. The marketers know we are bears of very little brains and will assume that W big number indicates the power. Is a TH500 louder than a Streamliner 900? An LM3 must be very quiet. As for the covert “all class d is rubbish” , the end of the world is nigh...

I just bought a new pot for an ED1 compressor. Same great service from Marshall.

You probably won't notice the "loss" if the turnover is 40 Hz. Despite the fundamental of the Low B string, has most of its energy at 62Hz and above.