Chienmortbb

On mine, the red light flicker occasionally but as they find free channels they go down quickly. The green lights should not flash. The right hand greens are battery condition if I remember rightly. If they flicker, you need to change the batteries. If they are new and the greens flicker, contact Chris at Smoothound.

Has anyone actually played the Evo II yet. They only arrived in June and most of the pics I have seen are of the Evo model. The newer Evo II has a satin finished front rather than the gloss.

You might get a crimson bass for that price. Give them a call.

23Hz is fine for studio work but a higher F3 point may be better live. There are a few reasons to use an HPF live. Firstly to tame room resonance. Each room is different and some are very resonant below 45Hz. Secondly to save the driver from unwanted excursion. The10-30 Hz region is useless in terms of Instrument reproduction but can cause excessive driver excursion and reduce the headroom available from your amp. The thuminator video is very informative. Duke Le Juene from Audio Kinetics says that the F3 point should be twice the fundamental frequency of the lowest string when played open. So 60-80Hz depending on how your bass is strung.

Despite the lack of posting, Stevie, Phil Starr and myself are still working on 12" DIY cab designs. One of the things Stevie and I discussed recently was the difference between FRFR bass cabs and PA cabs. PA cabs are usually designed to go on poles while bass cabs sit on the ground. A cabinet that measures flat on the floor will seem bass light on a pole as there is no mutual or floor coupling. Therefore many have either low end boost or reduced midrange to compensate. Put PA cabs on the floor and they may seem bass heavy/mid light. Of course if they have DSP then it may be possible to tune the response.

That I would rather go out in that that turn up with a Narkbass Ninja.

Not to go too far off topic but that is one of the better looking Mark Bass products IMHO. That Ninja thingy .........

Just to be clear I was never going to have three original and one odd machine heads. If I went for it I would have changed all 4. i have straightened out the bent one and it is now readonable. However I will replace them. A set of GB640 in Cosmo Black will set me back about £120 so it will have to wait until I have sold the GB350s.

Now you are beiing rude!

Still trying to work out how to get my cab in my ears.

I am looking for a set of lighter machine heads so the Gotohs are favourite although it looks like a £120 bill for those.

I would like to use the Gotoh’ GB650 in Cosmo Black do I will be selling the Gotoh GB350s. I have friends I Japan so much be able to do a direct import as the GB650s are not available in the UK.

I suppose I thought that but was hoping someone would convince me otherwise. If I have to replace the machine heads, it will have to be with lighteright ones. So i suppose I need to sell GB350s and find the closest ones to the originals. Thanks,

: Not sure if this is the correct forum but I have been considering replacing the machine heads on my CIJ Fender Aerodyne for some time. I could not find direct replacement lightweight machine heads from Hipshot, Gotoh or Schaller. The bass fell the other day and one of the original machine heads was bent. I tried a Gotoh GB350 Res-o-Lite in place of the the bent one to see if it would fit. The Aerodyne had black or smoked chrome hardware and the GB350s are chrome. My question is would it look stupid on a Fender Bass especially as it is the wrong style for the headstock. Should I fit the GB350s permanently, temporarily if is ther a better lightweight alternative?

There are many assetions on here as Phil says. The one I woud like to hammer is that any 4x10" can out perform any 1x12". It depends on the drivers, the cabinet design and the personal preference of the player. I should also point out that Dave Greenboy originally designed his cabs to be bi-amped*, as he felt that this was a better option than using large power crossovers. In that case using multiple drivers is no compromise. In fact the acoustic power (max SPL) output is greater, less heat is generated, less power is lost in both crossovers and drivers. *Bi amping uses small signal, solid state crossovers.

I do have an Orchid and it is great. More reliable that the LD it replaces and just simple. It is no frills as that is what a DI should be. It is transformer less and active. A well designed active DI is better than a poor transformer design. If you want a coloured sound, put a pedal in front of it.

I changed my post as I realised I was quoting hearsay. I have a great deal of time for Dave Greenboy's designs so I would not discount them, except that the cost over here is quite high. I also think TKS have the right idea as the Kappalite 3012LF is, in my opinion, not good enough on its own.

As I understand it the Barfaced 12s use an Eminence driver. Hving picked one up it must be a neo.

With regards the adhesive I agree with Phil. When we were discussing the 50L MK2 cab I did some research on glue and the good old bog standard white PVA woodworking glue is as strong or stronger than all the fancy glues. The additives that go into the outdoor and waterproof varieties slightly weaken the bond but are still stronger than the wood.

The new version of the Ashdown RM500 (RM500 EVO II) is due this month and it has been to weight watchers, Much lighter (2kg) and with a few other improvements it should be good. If 500 W is not enough there will be an 800W soon too.

Crazy prices. They have a massive home market that should allow economies of scale but once import duties, distributor margin and dealer margin are added, it makes no sense. i don’t know about the cabinets but the TH500 looks like it was made in someone’s shed.

Yes 125W into 8 ohms and 250W into 4 ohms.

On s serious not the MB115 combo is basically an MB200 in a combo with a 1x15 and tweeter..