Chienmortbb

OK. Thanks

In my opinion it is the density of the wood that matters not the species and as there is more neck covered by the string, than body, the neck has more effect on the sound than the body.

I think the main point is that currently the only way that I can see to support the site is to sell. Offering a subscription with free selling is a more positive message.

I have to be honest the selling fee does put me off selling on here. The marginal cost of selling is too high compared to other online market places. Maybe we should incorporate the “supporting member” concept which would allow those members to sell for free. It may seem like semantics but It reads better than a selling fee. It might also get over the issue of people unsubscribing if they have nothing to sell.

I have yet to fit my 640s as I need to make the holes bigger but I am impressed that you can adjust the torque. I am also impressed at the lack of play in the posts as opposed to any other machine heads I have seen. Add the weight saving and it is a winner.

Thanks. I was looking at the 4" one as I have a bad shoulder.

Too late for me, I stuck my full frame on yesterday.

I see that but I do use the HiCons on my pedal board.

Anyone used these and do you have any feedback? http://leathergraft.co.uk/product/4-softy-leather-bass-guitar-strap-black/

Not sure about the R version but give Touchstone Tonewoods a ring as they ordered me a set recently. Lead time was 2 months. Philadelphia Lutyhiers sell some Gotohs individually https://www.philadelphialuthiertools.com/bass-tuning-machines/

Their halfrounds were excellent too.

Yes Cliff did some that were similar in concept to the Speakon. The main reason for using XLRs was that they do handle 10amps (from memory).

It is a hobby horse of mine but as Bill says Jacks were not designed for speakers. Speakons were and although not perfect, they will do very well until something better comes along. A well known amplifier manufacturer once told me that jack plugs caused most of their amplifier failures on Solid State amps. With two exposed and very close contacts short circuits are not only likely but also inevitable.

Ok I have checked and the GB640s will fit, if the holes in the headstock are drilled out to 17mm Current holes are 15mm. The real problem is how I can expand the holes without damaging the black paint on the headstock. The good thing is that the GB640s have a bigger footprint and will cover the holes from the existing machineheads.

Could not resist it so took off one of my machine heads and they are too big. I have two options, drill out the bass, if the strings travel is still OK or buy the right fecking ones. GB528 would have fitted in with minimal fuss. I will decide after I change my username to numpty.

Fine with a decent 2 band. One of my Peavey basses has an EBMM 2 band clone fitted and that is great.

OK I have recently played a 5 string and, despite bad experiences when I had one 20 years ago, it felt good. So with a budget of about £300, what do bass-chatters suggest. Ibanez, Sire anything else?

Zombie tread but as an update I finally ordered the GB 640s via Touchstone and they arrived today. I cannot fit them yet though as I have a gig tonight and I don't want to risk a problem. I will keep you updated.

Anyone interested in seeing the builds of this cabinet can do so HERE

I am at that stage too.

On my Mk 2 that is almost the same but 50mm shorter than the Mk 3, I have used black wood screws since I fitted it, about a year ago. It has nowhere near the depth of plywood that Stevie has incorporated into the Mk3. Interms of weight, I originally had the Beyma driver installed and that is close to 2Kg heavier than the Faital pro so I have no qualms about using wood screws. I have now done some calcs. and the 5mm dia 30mm length screws can hold up to 61Kg each into Poplar. Plywood is denser than its donor species so even with the four screws that’s hold the handle on, you have in-excess of 200Kg withdrawal force. I am not sure that the other 4 screws do much except ensure and airtight seal but I don’t have any qualms about using wood screws. I fact there is no reason why you could not use wood screws for the 12” driver although I would stick with some sort of insert or T nut. I used rivnuts designed for metal as I had some to hand.

Yes I did that first but found it a bit of a fiddle, I got adhesive and wadding stuck to my fingers. So I cut the ones above to size. I may cover the other braces behind the woofer but I suspect it will have little effect. I have been away all week so no more progress yet.

You added the reference to the KiOgan loom adding it completed the perfect P bass. I assumed from your previous mention of the sound of the pickup that you felt the loom added to the sound. Re-reading it I realise that I could have misconstrued your post. I hope you will accept my apology. I am an Electronics Engineer and hate it when people attribute magic to this or that component and clearly have a hair trigger when I see this. In this case I was wrong.

That different parts have an affect on the sound. There will be some tolerance (most pots and caps are +/- 20%). I thought you were implying that the rand of pot or cap influenced the sound. If you did not, I apologise.

I have not used those, I use the Sommer HiCon. Although a different shape, they look to be similar quality. The hicons are black though. I have just noticed that these are for cable if a maximum diameter of 4.6mm maximum outside diameter. That rules out the majority of guitar cables.