Chienmortbb

I was up at 7 this morning as time is running out. The wadding is in and I have glued the top and bottom. The glue sets fairly well in 2 hours but clamping time is 4 hours so four hours it is. That will be about 11:30 when the edge corner shaping and painting will be done, I have to be out for the afternoon (more pressure) returning about 18:00. While the box is drying, I will make the crossover. I have had trouble posting the template drawing for the horn, when converted to an image file the size is wrong so you need the PDF. I have now posted it and you can get it by clicking [url="http://candheat.co.uk/documents/PH170.pdf"]HERE[/url]. The drawing is a very zoomed version of the small image on the P--Audio data sheet. Although slightly pixelated, it is accurate to within about 1.5mm and using the cropped rugby ball shape in the middle, I cut a template that made a good hole as can be seen in the baffle image in an earlier post. The complete P-Audio data sheet for the PH-170 Horn is [url="http://www.p-audio.co.uk/products/P-Audio_PH-170_1_inch_Throat_High_Frequency_Horn.php"]HERE[/url]

[quote name='stevie' timestamp='1490965068' post='3269449'] Here are the corrected versions. [/quote]One of the things you will notice is how complex the crossover is. Not that I want to put anyone off building it but compared to some of the best commercial offerings this is a beautifully tailored circuit.

I use Open Office/Libre office draw. I have not used Paint for years so don't know if it's better or not. However it is free.

I use Open Office/Libre office draw. I have not used Paint for years so don't know if it's better or not. However it is free.

The grille has been tricky. i decided that the weight of a good metal grille would be too much. I already had some old really tough plastic grille material ,and decided to use that. Here is a picture of the Grille almost complete. The plastic is very string and tough and quite hard to work with. It is stapled on to the edges of the frame. It pulled the sides of the frame inwards so I added a brace as you can see from the clamps. The red triangles are thin pieces of plywood that both strengthen the joints and give me something to screw through to hold the grille in place. If I had to do this again I would not do it this way and I may redesign the grille after the bass bass next Sunday. Having tried a dry fit of the grille I have to say I am much happier with it. The two things that worry me now are whether I can get the fixing screws on and whether I will be able to get it off if I need too. To say it is a tight fit is an understatement.

I am struggling to get this finished before the South West Bass bash on Sunday. I ordered some bits form Blue Aran, Handle, corners, screws TuffCab and that came today. i am still waiting for the wadding. Yesterday I finished the baffle and installed it together with a new brace to support the baffle between the Horn and Port. This is a weak area and I used a triangular ogg curt that attaches to the baffle and the Top. I painted the baffle matt black before installation. Tuff Cab does not adhere well to other paint so I was trying to avoid contaminating subsurfaces that might need Tuffcab. The next picture shows the new brace. Im did wipe the excess glue after I took the picture. I cannot put the top and bottom on until I have the wadding so next, the grille.

[quote name='Phil C' timestamp='1490790464' post='3267992'] Update - I emailed both companies. Wembley Loud speakers never replied! The guys in Norwich did, and turned my speaker around in a week (£80 plus £15P&P). The speaker has just been through 3 two hour sets with Deeper Purple, and is as good as new! Thanks for the advice. [/quote]I wanted to be fair to both companies but I have also found the Norwich guys to be great. I am really glad you are sorted

[quote name='markstuk' timestamp='1490170791' post='3262720'] I'll make mr funk and Mr glockenklang aware of your view 😁 you have to listen closely.. [/quote]What I meant is there is no excuse for manufacturers to produce noisy amps. Most noise cameos from the preamp and even low cost opamps can give s low noise floor. Don't worry I am not going into details. However if Mr Funk and Mr Glocengang make noisy Amps... or maybe it is just the crossover in the Barefaced that is the problem!

I have been trying to do the odd bit on the cab despite wanting too curl up in the corner. I finished putting the braces/struts into the cabinet and put the other side on. Then I cut the baffle hole in both my baffle and Stevie's. Mine went OK but lost concentration with the router and ended the rout of Stevies with black sawdust on the baffle. I had routed through the live wire but being a class two device, there was no danger of a shock. I have rewired it now but the cable is 35cm shorter . Next trick, dry fit the baffle. That is the next thing to go on so it needs to be a good tight fit and it is. Sadly when I spaced out the braces, I calculated that the full brace above the baffle would sit just above the woofer hole...... except that I calculated to the centre of the brace and the is 7.5mm lower than the centre line and just [u][i]below[/i][/u] the woofer cut-out. You can see that in the image below where you can also see some of the sanding I need to do. I am not too concerned as I think the angle to the speaker and the offset from the foam sealing will ensure that the brace is not in the way. The slight lost in strength is also offset by the better support for the woofer. I just have to keep repeating those two sentances t until I believe it. The good think about building one cabinet before the other is that these little issues can be corrected on the second cabinet. Stevie's should turn out perfectly After I have tidied up the inside by sanding the rough edges of the braces, I will mark-out and cut-out the hole for the horn. I have a novel way to mark that out but it might not work! Then fit the wadding*, the baffle, the port and the connector hole(s) on the back. The top and bottom will be fitted last of all. I think we are still on track for the SW Bash Bash but I am going to bed now and hope to wake up feeling better tomorrow. *The wadding is due Tuesday but I may have to glue the baffle before it arrives. Hopefully more progress tomorrow.

[quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1490428120' post='3265030'] I'm going to try to get along for a couple of hours. Unfortunately our band are rehearsing in the afternoon from 1.00pm but it's just the other side of Taunton so I should be fine for the first couple of hours. I'll bring along the original Basschat 12 in case someone is interested in building one. It'd be interesting to compare it with the tweetered Mk 2 versions. I could probably leave it with someone if people want to go on playing with it. GrahamT you know who you are [/quote]No pressure then Phil? I am building the MK2 as fast as I can but illl health has put me behind schedule. I might have to bring a Wet Paint sign on Sunday.🤧

Sorry for the delay in posting, I had the start of a virus when I was st Stevie's on Tuesday and it has laid me low ever since. I have made some progress and will post photos tonight.

[quote name='owen' timestamp='1490346682' post='3264422'] So many opportunities for poor jokes here, but I am a grown up so will not. [/quote]Ouch/ There may be a howl (round) from some of out transatlantic cousins over that pun

[quote name='funkle' timestamp='1490285779' post='3263970'] The BC 1x12 is going to be one heck of a cabinet then. There are some incredible lows out of the F112. [/quote]Once I finish mine, assuming I get rid of the bug I currently have, I will be taking it to the South West Bass Bash. Hopefully there will be some feedback from there.

Just a punt but I would try different leads first. active basses use stereo jack sockets and use the mono jail plug of you cable to make the earth connection, connecting the battery to the pre-amp. So either the lead has a stereo plug or, there is something wrong with the stereo jack socket on the Schecter. Or I could be completely wrong.

[quote name='pmjos' timestamp='1490199228' post='3263183'] Thought I would update this having has the F112 for a while. I matched it with a Warwick LWA1000. I wasn't expecting the sound to be as neutral as it was and to be honest at first I didn't like it. However as I got the hang of it and began to drive the 'colour' from my various basses I have really come to appreciate the difference you get from just plugging in a different instrument. Sounds obvious really but to some extent I have been used to plugging in basses and trying to make them sound different. With this you don't have to, not one bit. Put a P bass in and you get P bass, and EUB it sounds like and EUB. You get the idea. The rig is small , flexible and very loud but I prefer to use mine at lower levels and going out through the front of house.The cab is properly full range and responds across the whole spectrum. I did say it didn't have as much bottom as my AER AMP Three, that remains true. The AER is a sealed cabinet and almost unique for a small combo for thunderous bottom end. However, the F112 rig gets much bigger and loader and doesn't colour the sound. The build of the cab is clean, sturdy and the drivers are of the highest quality. I love the wedge shape. I am very happy with the rig and its a keeper. [/quote]Dave Greenboy really knows how to design a no-compromise cabinet. In fact having learnt so much from the design of the BC 1x12, I think he is one of the few that does it properly.

Acoustic bass guitars are evil. You can't hear them when played " acoustically " and can only hear them amplified. So thats an electric Bass then? A Howling' Wolf in sheep clothing!

[quote name='markstuk' timestamp='1490095567' post='3262084'] You should be able to hear the background hiss increase/decrease as you adjust the tweeter... [/quote]Not with a good amp you won't.

The cabinet is slowly coming together. The two main struts are attached to the back and the sides are about to be glued too: As we go into Wednesday, the two sides have been glued and I will post a picture tomorrow. All other struts will be created from off-cuts of plywood similar in size to the bracing pieces used on the prototype cabinet from which the drawings were created. I have created a drawing to allow an accurate cut-out for the PH-170 P-Audio horn, despite its complex shape, Sadly when I try to put it on here the dimensions are altered. I will keep working on that or PM me for a copy of the template drawing in PDF form.

[quote name='stevie' timestamp='1490025283' post='3261536'] Totally agree with this. If you are going to spend your valuable time building a cab like this, don't dry to save pennies on the wood. You can make this cab from just 1/2 sheet - so it's not that much more to get the good stuff. Cheap plywood will just not do the job properly. If you're going to use normal ply, get Finnish or Russian birch plywood. If you're going to use poplar ply, get the Italian stuff. Unless you're a wood expert, avoid anything from China. [/quote]I totally agree and for strength and total durability Finnish Birch would be the first choice. Unfortunately it is also the heaviest being 1.75-2.0 times heavier than Poplar but about 30% stronger on average. Or to put it another way a 15mm Polar cab is stronger that a 12mm Birch one. I weighed a complete kit of the poplar boards and the weight came out at about 7Kg, a 15mm birch cab would weigh between 12-15Kg. add the drivers and crossover (approx 6Kg for mine) plus a further 0.5Kg for the connectors and handle. My 65 year old back says Poplar. As I have said before, it is inevitable that there will be knots in the ply, and some of these will fall out when an edge is cut. It is one of the drawbacks of the material but is not a big deal unless you go down to 12mm or even 9mm ply.

Well I now have the two complex struts cut out/ More about that later. You will see from the pictures that they are not geometrically perfect. My original idea was to use round holes of the same area as the rectangles that were drawn. I them decided I should build it to the drawing too see if that was a good way to go. Stevie designed the struts based on individual softwood battens that were screwed and glued to the side of the cabinet. It seems sensible to replicate that in a single panel of ply, with corresponding cut-outs. After spending some hours trying to get the struts to look like the drawing, I believe that road holes or individual pieces of wood are better. On strut L, I did use my jigsaw to round off the ends. Unfortunately I did not have the correct blade for tight turns so it is not perfect but it does save a lot of time. The tear out you can see was my fault. In order to cut some of the longer runs faster I used a coarse blade on scroll mode. It was mistake. I cut Stevie's strut (great name for a song) K at the same time but that was a little more geometrical. We have had a discussion as to whether the rear of strut L should be a figure of 8 rather than a single long hole. We agreed it would and foolishly, I forgot to mark it on the drawing. I will make Stevie's a figure of 8 then we can compare the strength. [size=4]I have some work to do now but will attach [/size][size=4]the[/size][size=4] struts to the back later. [/size]

I am not sure of the model but the Mackie Thump 16s we have been using for open mic recently were not good (post RCF?). These were replaced with a pair of Alto that were great for vocals. However at another open mic night we used a Blue Acoustic M2 system (think Bose broomsticks with proper speakers on top) Without doubt the best portable system I have ever played through. [url="http://blue-acoustic.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/M2-System-Data-2017.pdf"]http://blue-acoustic...m-Data-2017.pdf[/url]

I began the build this week and so far I am pleased. The poplar supplied was 7 PLY not 9 as they show on their website. It seems the Timber Merchants and importers are at the mercy of the producers as to what is supplied. I had heard that the producers and exporters of Poplar ply could be erratic and that may be why it is hard to find. Anyway the outer faces are lovely and it almost seems a shame to cover them with Tuff Cab, Vinyl or Carpet. However it has to be done. The cuts were good and all the panels except the struts were within 1mm of the specified size. The struts were cut too long, but reviewing my own cutting drawing, I can see how that could happen. Lesson 1: separately detail the size of each panel. Once I got the panels home, I started a dry fit of the cabinet. I held the panels square and flush using some corner clamps from Toolstation. [url="http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p85872?table=no"]http://www.toolstati...p85872?table=no[/url]. I drew a line 7mm from the edge and used No 8 by 1.5" screens to hold them in position. Once the cabinet is glued and the glue has dried, I will replace all the screen with dowels. During the design phase, we had a number of discussion about how to construct the cabinets. Phil Starr is in favour of battening each corner along the whole length to give a greater gluing area and to avoid the need for buying lots of clamps. There is no reason why you cannot do that for this build although you would have to make your own decisions as to how to design the struts. It does make construction much easier although the end result will be a heavier cabinet. Incidentally I weighed the screws to see how much extra weight they add. They weigh 2 grams each so if you decided to uses screw and leave them in place, the extra weight is negligible. Where screws are a problem is when you try to round over the edges. You can see the clamps in the picture here. The baffle is just pushed in. The picture below shows the line 7mm in from the edge with the three screw heads on that line. Not quite in focus is my countersink bit. I counter sunk all the holes to avoid the edges splitting. I would avoid relying on the modern self-countersinking screen here as the extra pressure need by them could create the split we are trying to avoid. On the longer sides I used 4 screws. It is important to keep the screws away from the extreme edge of the board as there are two edges there and the material is weak until glued. Clearly I should have vacuumed the top before taking the picture but the sawdust adds realism. It is important when you do a dry fit to be sure that the panels go back in the same way when adhesive is applied. The picture below shows how I am doing that. I was writing upside down when I did this but my handwriting really is that bad The next step is to remove the excess wood from the struts. In order to get two cabinets from one sheet of play, we only had two lots of two struts cut, knowing that the other two could be made form plywood offcuts. To Be Continued.

[quote name='verb' timestamp='1489787145' post='3259950'] The chap on the Peavey stand at LBGS told me that Peavey/Trace had developed their own power amp unit. [/quote]If that is true it is good news. The ICEPower [color=#000000][font=Flama][size=3]50ASX2 [/size][/font][/color][size=4] that was alluded to earlier (and is used in a whole host of 200W amps) is actually only 100W into 8R* and 170W into 4R*. Unless Peavey are playing fast and loose with figures (and I have seen lot of evidence to suggest they do not) it must me a different power unit. They quote a distortion figure of 1% at rated output and a fairly decent noise floor. In comparison to say a GK MB200, which uses the ICEPower module, this is a more powerful beast. I have a few concerns, firstly as always, we must remember that 30% more power is about 1dB of one Just Noticeable Difference. In other words in a band situation it is almost irrelevant. Secondly as it is so small it may well not like being driven continuously at its rated output.[/size] R is the preferred symbol for Ohms. Just like I is the preferred symbol for Current (amps). That being said, the reality is that all the really needed controls are there and to my mind the off board preamp could well be the gem. That looks to have everything on many of us would need and the fact you can use it with your existing amp or with a separate power amp means its success is not tied to the Elf's. With regards to the jack speaker out, I hate jack outputs because most connector are NOT rated for any sort off power. Many plugs and sockets are rated at 0.5A as they were designed for line level signals. So hopefully Peavey have used reputable jacks rated at 5-7A and that means you have to make sure your plugs are also power rated. Neutral, Switchcraft, Amphenol and Rean make high current plugs so be careful.

[quote name='The Shrek' timestamp='1489696507' post='3259092'] Hey guys, I can't stress enough about sourcing good plywood. I went to my local timber yard and just asked for a sheet of 3/4 plywood. It looked great and even had a really nice grain in the top layer. Later when I inspected along the cuts, I noticed a lot of empty little voids between the plys of timber. Even with good sharp blades in my cutting tools the ply splintered and and some quite large chips came out. [/quote]We have chosen poplar for our builds and they prototype cab was made from Spruce. The little voids you see are knots and they fall out once they have been sawn. All you can do is fill them with sawdust and PVA glue. If you use wood filler, TuffCab will not stick to it. There is no such thing as knot free ply, at least not at a realistic price, although a B/BB grade will give a pretty good outer veneer.

[quote name='scrumpymike' timestamp='1489233564' post='3255338'] [size=5][b][i]BASH BULLETIN![/i][/b][/size] [b][u]T-shirts[/u][/b] As promised, more info on the 'official' commemorative T-shirts (see pics posted a few days ago): Price is [b]£12[/b] and sizes are as follows: [b] S[/b] = 38" [b]M[/b] = 42" [b]L[/b] = 44" [b]XL [/b]= 48" [b]XXL [/b]= 52" [b]XXXL[/b] = 56" NOTE: These are the actual physical measurements of the shirts I've already bought a few samples to identify me and the bash team and check out the quality. If you want one (or more) please pm me so I can put an order together - I'll need your payment by this coming Friday March 17th to ensure that you get yours on the day. [i][b][u]£££ HELP[/u]!![/b][/i] I've written a cheque for £80 this morning for the hall and Mrs Scrumpy has been spending cash filling our freezer (and part of next door's!!) with home-made goodies for the big day. If you you know you'll be coming and don't mind paying up-front, please pm me. Anyone who pays but can't make it on the day gets a full refund. [b][i][u]STOP PRESS[/u] - Stephen Chown's contacts at Bass Guitar are giving him some freebie mag's to bring along! [/i][/b] [/quote]Put me down for an XL Shirt and I will PM you about paying.