Chienmortbb

Thanks Ped.

Anyone else had “girls” offers by this clown?

I will give those a try.

I think it depends on the particular digital and analogue pedals you use.

I have one of those but it does not have isolated outputs though it says it does. When I connect my analogue pedals or either my digital wireless receiver or my Zoom B1On, I get noise coming through.

My first one was not perfect but the seller is sending a replacement. I know what you mean about the holes though. It may need some fixing battens fixed inside the current grille support frame.

Mine did eventually fall apart but that was because the frame was too flimsy. My fault.

I did that on my MK2 and I should have warned everyone to steer clear. I have the Aluminium grille and it is so much easier.

It’s hard to get any vinyl in that colour. Here are two samples I have received photographed I two different lights. Neither look to close to the Ashdown colour although different light/monitors/screens make it difficult to make a direct comparison.

I have a Fender Aerodyne and a Peavey Precision clone. On both basses the taper “bump” on the E string always seems to hit the machine head at the “in tune” point. This means that there is more effect on the pitch per revolution of the head tuning up than tuning down. It happens on every make of string I have tried. These include Rotosound, Picato, Ernie Ball, Fender ( pre and post D’Addario), D’Addario and in the case of the Peavey various cheap brands. If you look closely at the picture you should be able to see what I mean. Are there any brands where there is either no taper or where the taper is closer to the nut?

OBBM is correct. As you cannot guarantee the current carrying rating of a jack plug/socket combination, best stick to speakons above 100watts.

I went over to Stevie’s on Monday to look at the counter on his coil winder. As my cab was almost complete he suggested I take it over and he would measure it. The result was that the response was ruler flat to about 5.5KHz, where there was a slight peak and 7KHz where there was a slight dip. According to Stevie, these could be flattened by tweaking the crossover values and were due to differences in the drivers. So could you hear them? No compared to a studio monitor, also in the room, you could not tell the two apart. What this does show is that unless commercial manufacturers individually tune each and every cabinet, there will be differences. This probably applies to active PA cabinets too.

I suspect rear facing drivers will not be allowed until driverless cabs are allowed.

Ironically it makes much more sense now.

Get a foam mic condom. No nasty shocks and you can wash and use them again and again.

The real problem is that the effects will be different depending on the phase of the rear firing speaker and things like the the distance between the driver and any wall or large object. That will mean cancellations at random frequencies. I suspect it would be hard to adjust the sound for different venues.

Our football club PA amp died last week so I used mine as a Power amp driving a 100V line transformer. Worked like a dream.

That proves that all drivers of the same nominal diameter are not equal.

Based on the drawings I expect each hole was 1degree or about 0.5mm offset but the offsets would be the opposite way between adjacent holes. The result is that no hole is exactly right for the handle to be exactly parallel to the front and back. Whether your eye would see it is another matter.

What roller did you use to get that finish.

Manufacturers usually sell at RRP, something dealers never do. In defence of Ashdown there are areas in the country (like mine) where the dealers do not stock Ashdown and Ashdown really do take care of their customers. So while I agree with your general point, I don't think it is totally valid with Ashdown.

Another bonus. Just been playing for over am hour and my neck/shoulder are not complaining. Anyone want to make an offer on some Fender Machine heads? I am now tempted by a carbon fibre/titanium bridge.

I have now fitted the GB640s. I bought a 20mm tapered reamer to widen the holes. It is a tight squeeze but I am very pleased. I did ask Andyjr1515 for his advice and he advised using a crafty knife to scrape away the paint from around the hole before reaming, ream and then widen the inside of the whole with a round file or multitool. .It worked well except I did scratch the headstock with the multi-tool. So what were the advantages and disadvantages? The light weight is great but the real win is the smoothness of the Gotohs. In addition the size of the 640s mean the original fixing holes are hidden. Although the posts are much wider than the original ones, the strings still travel in a straight line from the nut to the machine heads. The downsides? It is a lot of work. Would do it again? Yes but I would have bought the Gotoh GB528s. There would have been no reaming, just new fixing holes and there would have been some existing fixing holes to fill. Of course there are some Hipshot Ultralites that may fit exactly.

Still waiting for my Grille.

I am waiting for the grille, foam strip, corners and 5mm bolts and still need to put the final voats of TufCab on. The deadline is that I have a gig on the 9th. Fingers crossed and pictures to come soon.