Chienmortbb

I think you are right about the glue. A really good coating and using the rubber mallet (if you have not got one you should have) or a hammer with a sacrificial piece of wood, Gently tap from the centre to the ends to ensure the joint is well seated all the way along. This encourages any surplus adhesive to squeeze out at the ends rather than pooling midway along the joint. Then use the clamps. I used two, one at each end and one through the woofer hole. I should have used more at least one at each joint (4). I suggest this way as I am sure this was where I went wrong. Finally check that there is a perfect 90 degree angle between the two pieces. One other point. It should be OK to screw the top/bottom at each corner, if required until the glue sets. Make sure the carcass is fully dry before drilling or driving the screws home. The metal corners will hide any cosmetic imperfections after the hole is filled. Firstly drill a pilot hole through the top/ bottom into the corner of the carcass. I use a 2/2.5mm drill for that. Then a clearance hole through the top/bottom only, 4mm. Do not use a countersunk screw . Of course if you have too many clamps.....*. Once the glue has dried you can either counterbore the hole driving the screw below the surface then fill the hole, or just fill the hole. I will post pictures early next week. * There is no such thing as too many clamps or too many basses (he said as he bid on a fiver).

I am sure Phil would answer soon enough but there are few 12” speakers at a reasonable price that would work well in a 30 litre cabinet. However, if you can wait a few hours I will model it for you.

Hot Covers is the other main maker.

Yes fall of or fall away is a good idea.

A good place to start is by using the Fender setup document. Of course some of the settings are “to taste’ but it is a good starting point.

They were just short of £1000 rrp here. I got mine via a personal import from Japan. Cost just under £500 inc insurance and shipping. Add £70 import duty and Igot a bargain.

Does anyone plan on building 2?

Good idea. I suspect at least 50% will want a cover. Count me in.

I have heard that before but the stock pups in mine are fine. My jazz is one of the really early ones without a pickguard or the Jazz type control panel. It also has the higher mass bridge that was changed at some point in production.

I agree with that. I usually use more glue but followed the instructions on the bottle to the letter. I had virtually no squeeze out and that would worry me if my mistake had not been glued firmly on. Of course PVA sticks very well to dried PVA so there is no problem coating the wood first. My only worry, and maybe my problem was that it the walls of both the routed channel and the mating board swell that could cause a problem.

Having thought about this I suggest that during the dry fit, a pencil line is drawn all around the baffle where is meets the sides, top and bottom. That will show up any problems when the dry fit is disassembled and will also have shown the error when I glued it together. ít is also probably worth doing that with the braces too.

Very good shout.

The Behringer are very prone to loosing WiFi from cheaper wireless systems. My Smoothound is fine but when our guitarist uses his £50 one it swamps the Behringer. The best bet is to use a wireless router linked to the mixer by cable. Then use the 5GHz band to connect as there are far fewer 5GHz devices to interfere. For complete peace of mind use a computer connected by a Cat5/6 Ethernet cable.

Probably best to use a tissue rather than toilet paper Phil. Tissues are designed to resist big blows ( of the nose) while toilet tissue is designed to disintegrate when moist.

All good tips. The straight edge is a good test. If the joint is flush top and bottom and there is less than1mm gap at any point, You should be OK. I did use clamps from the speaker and port cutouts but in the end it was my failure to check that did for me. The other side is under 0.5mm our top to bottom. I don’t think you would see it direct from the front, I only noticed it by looking along the side as I undid the clamps. It says something for the design though that it is still square top and bottom. After sleeping on it over night (the thought of living with the error not the cabinet), I am OK with it.

Good shout Luke. I tried to make do with the clamps I had and made a slight error. I clearly did not check that the side panel was correctly seated all the way along and have a 2mm curve on one side. The cab is square too and bottom and one painted, I doubt anyone but me would notice. I did investigate ways of loosening the glue, by heat, to try to reposition it but the glue holding the plywood together is usually only guaranteed to 100 degrees C. I suspect I would have to excesd that to loosen the joint glue, running the risk of plywood De-lamination. So mine really is one of a kind, I give you Banana Cab

Yes I had the BLX130 and it had two mosfets and spaces for two more plus a few resistors. That suggested to me that the PCB was used for 130W upwards. Of course the speaker was 8 ohms so it was still 80 watts without an extension cab.

I am not bothered to much by the tome change. Of course the bigger neon will affect tone ( the neck has more effect on the tone than the body in my opinion). However it is just BEAD tuning as my guitarist wants to tune down. The more I think about it, the more a 5 appeals. I almost bought am Ibanez 5 a few weeks ago.

I knew you could not resist it.

Should have switched on brain before posting. .

I am thinking of going BEAD on of my basses. Does anyone make a set of strings for that?

She will be disappointed unless there is a toy inside ( I am guessing a girl owing to the pink attire).

If your ampeg cab has 8 ohm drivers wired in series/parallel, it can be rewired in parallel to give 2 ohms. Can you get a picture of the back of one of the drivers? However I believe some Ampeg cabs use 32 ohm drivers and in that case you are scuppered.

I agree with Stevie, I used sandpaper on the edges and used a rubber faced-mallet to tap them into place. It is remarkable how strong the structure is without glue.