Chienmortbb

[quote name='crez5150' timestamp='1504520825' post='3365353'] How about a Lucia 240? [url="http://labgruppen.com/view-model/lucia/lucia-240-2m"]http://labgruppen.co...ia/lucia-240-2m[/url] [/quote]120W all channels driven.

[quote name='NickA' timestamp='1501941112' post='3348366'] So did it still work when you got home? Or did the genset kill it dead :¬( Speaking as an electrical engineer (day job) I'd be surprised if a Class-D was more sensitive to low voltages than a class anything else, it just depends on what electronics are in there. I'm guessing more modern kit with more built in protection rather than anything fundamentally more damageable. And the "D" does mean digital btw (it has power devices that are ON or OFF = digits; whereas A, B, C, H use transistors that are "partly" on = analogue. Class H is a Class C with a variable power supply rail voltage - the QSC 3200PLX I use at work is one of those, always a bit of a glitch as it switches from one power level to another - fantastic amp tho). It's just handy that D came after C. [/quote]No it is not digital it is PWM. If it were digital, signal would be converted to a binary or octal number (digit) before power amplification. With PWM it is the width or frequency of the pulse that changes. It is like having a closed circuit radio system where the transmitter and receiver are in the same box. Yes it is valid to call Class D a switching amplifier class, but Digital is wrong. Even if the modulation is digitally controlled, the amp is not digital.

You are not totally out of your tree but to use a good quality, high power car amp and 12V supply would be expensive and quite bulky. you do not say what the impedance of the cab is but if it is 8 ohm you need to look for an amp rated at 400-500 watts. This is because solid state amps whether Class D or Class A/B reach rated power into 4 ohms and would be closer to half that power into 8 ohms. The ISP amp quoted above is rated at 180 watts peak and 90 Watts RMS into 4 Ohms. Probably well underpowered for your needs. The Bose will be very expensive and as usual with Bose, has no specs as they are intended for use with the Bose PA systems. What pre-amp are you using? Do you want the amp built in?Active Crossover?

[quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1490908587' post='3269044'] I was chatting to Leszek today, and he mentioned he's added a new custom-order feature to the R-400 - an auto-switching mechanism to match the local power supply. That got me thinking - I've never seen this on a class AB head, only on Class D's. Is this a first..? [/quote]Not if he is using a Switch Mode Power Supply. Matrix have been doing that for some time.

[quote name='BassBod' timestamp='1498831614' post='3327437'] Love mine, but it is a micro and it's not an old Trace. With passive basses I nearly always use a Sansamp or Sadowsky preamp to warm it up. But it's small robust and simple...great stuff. Now, if I was going to complain..it would be fan noise (now improved?) silly name, not even a great album..and the 800w rating. But I still love it😜 [/quote]it users the same power amp Module as the Mesa Subway Genzler Magellan and many others. Really it is 700 Wstts into 4 ohms 350 into 8. It can drive loads down to 2.66 but only if really well cooled.

[quote name='Chienmortbb' timestamp='1453682464' post='2961846'] Based on the South Coast too at Poole Dorset. Often in Bournemouth, Southampton, Romsey and Winchester areas. Will do basic setup and any electrics/electronics. Including action, intonation, pickup replacement, preamp design and/or installation, pots, caps Jack sockets and general wiring. Custom instrument cables and speaker/speakon leads. Still learning fretwork and finishing so can't do that at the moment. [/quote]Now happy to do fret levelling and crowning.

HH apps were very loud although they are fully solid-state beautifully built. Our rated at 100 W into four ohms 80 W into 8 ohms. They will easily outperform many apps rated higher. Mark Bolan "played" a Vamp 100w valve stack on TV and photos as they looked cool but an HH solid state on stage. I have a VS Bass Amo and Bassamp 100. The designs are solid, only constrained by the technology of the time.

[quote name='Anfrax666' timestamp='1493144881' post='3286057'] Had a look but couldn't see any for hampshire, specifically Southampton/ Portsmouth area... any recommendations? [/quote]Just posted this. What do you need doing?

Hamster, I have been going my own set-ups for a while and recently did a guitar maintenance course at Crimson guitars. I have all the tools (and a well depleted bank balance) to to basic set-ups as well as fret levels and crowning. At the moment I am not doing re-frets but will offer it in future. I am based in Poole, Dorset so Dorset and Southern Hampshire would be my area.

If you have the space, and can do DIY electronics, passiinwind has a three band that can be used onboard or as a pedal. Full details are on the other place https://www.talkbass.com/wiki/pw3b-lpf-open-source-onboard-preamp/ It is offered under a creative commons licence so you can build it for your own use and purchase the PCBs form OSHpark. It is a gift to the Bass community and Charlie (passinwind) makes no money from it,

[quote name='garry warrington' timestamp='1501002755' post='3341723'] The Tropical fish cap was meant to be 0.047 ,(perhaps it didnt get on with the SX pots. The tone sounded harsher and less defined, Sx basses are half decent for the money, and usually give a passable p bass tone. Would it be worth my while getting some CTS pots with a orange drop cap. [/quote]Don't waste your money. CTS pots are just pots,reasonable quality but nothing special. Go for Bourns or the bigger OMEG ones if you can get them. Orange drop caps are just orange coloured. No magic The mullard caps will be circa 40 years old and 20% tolerance. So the value could be anywhere between about 425K and 575K. The best think is to look on the other place where many people have SX basses and I am sure there are stories of successful upgrades.

I am not sure how I missed this thread but EVO? Oh and the guitar amp looks lovely, the Bass one? Can't say as it will not get past the profanity filter,

[quote name='RichardH' timestamp='1501152279' post='3342843'] I was going to ask about doing the crossover on one piece - I thought seperate might be easier to locate within the cab - especially as this is for Geoff's MiBass cab rather than the BC cab, so I don't know what clear space there is inside. I would reserve judgement on mine being neater until I have finished!! Waiting for some suitable silicone to be delivered at the moment.... [/quote]It will be easier to place in the cab and easier to trace through if you have a problem. BTW where did you but the inductors?

I made my crossover on a single piece of ply and think separate pieces are easier. Yours are both a bit tidier as I was in a real rush. As is to be expected I did have one problem with the crossover, a detached wire due to my rush to make the Bass Bash but it has been fine since I fixed it I just thought I would update you on my experience. Externally the cab still looks good despite being in and out of the boot twice a week. There are a few small dings but the Tuff cab has not been pierced. As they are small dings they just look like the texture of the cabinet. I often sit on the cab at rehersals and there is very little vibration through the top. I did a dep gig with Stevie's band recently and during sound check was asked to turn down. I was using my Ashdown MiBass 220. Like all those 200ish watt amps it outputs about 100 Watts into 8 ohms*. The idea behind the cab was to get better on stage dispersion and a one cab solution. It certainly does that. Whet is more pleasing is that the sound, out front seems to cut through with ease. I cannot see that with a more powerful amp ( still working on my 500 watter) I would need another cab although the rocker in me yearns for a stack.... So what are the pros and cons? Well as with everything, I would like it lighter. The SM212 has a ferrite magnet but is not unduly heavy. You could save a couple of kg by using a Kappalite 3012 but it would add £100 to the cost. Most other neo drivers will only save 0.5-1Kg. The Mk1 with no HF unit and no crossover would save money and weight but the sound would be different. How different is the sound? Maybe Phil and I can swap cabs for a while and we could see? The HF horn weighed about 1Kg and the crossover probably the same. Would I use 15mm poplar ply again? Yes it does the job and is lightweight. Tough enough for me and easy to work with. 12mm would require more care and bracing and I am not sure there are any real benefits for the diy constructor. I may well build a combo version next and (don't tell Stevie) but I might use electronic crossovers but I have to finish my amp first. *It uses the Icepower 50ASX2 module used by GK and many others.

[quote name='Count Bassy' timestamp='1499774865' post='3333489'] So where did "Class H" come from? And I agree with your other point. Class D is digital in that the output has two states, on or off. However there have been very long threads regarding this before, so best not open that particular can of worms again! [/quote]Class H is just the latest class to be defined. It is an improvement on Class G. Classes E and F are not useful for Audio Audio Classes are A,B, AB, D,G and H. The reason Class D amps switching amps but are not digital. Audio in the digital world is sampled and in Class D the audio is modulated. It is really more akin to a power modem.

Smoke machines often atomise an oil based liquid. It get everywhere. Almost as bad as cigarette tar.

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1499975982' post='3334970'] I don't think you can blame the technology for that though can you? [/quote]I don't blame the technology. I blame the band, they were more worried about their own monitor s sound than the audience. I have nothing against in ears per se. However for me an electric bass/electric guitar without an amp is like an acoustic without a sound box. That does not mean I need to blow the sound barrier. I am using 100 watts into my Basschat 1x12 and on my last dep job was asked to turn down, which of course I did.

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1499891941' post='3334408'] So if you had in ears you could do your perfect own mix in rehearsals then at the gigs you'd get a consistent perfect fold back. [/quote ][/quote] That works if you have a sound tech/person (sound engineer is an oxymoron). I saw (heard) a band recently that were self mixing. They used in-ears and must have spent 15-20 minutes getting the foldback correct. No one ever came out front. The sound sucked and the biggest culprit was the bass. They were using two really big JBL cabinets for PA and the bass drowned out everything.

Apart from the implied expletive it seems balanced to me. re-write it "You like A, I like B does not mean either is right or wrong."

I have used some on a worktop this weekend. Really impressed. However I have heard good reports about Crimson's Guitar Finishing Oil. I might try that soon.

Funny but it is a 130, has all the bits a trace would have and it is MOSFET? Trace amps (like the BLX130) were mosfet. I wonder if it is a clone of maybe a spinoff off a Trace?

[quote name='Sparky Mark' timestamp='1499202641' post='3329971'] I had a class D LM3 in my CMD121P and it sounded just as punchy as my class AB separate LM3. The sound is primarily down to the pre amp which was identical. Markbass developed its own 500w class D power amp and it is very full sounding. The 1000W power amp is based on the same design elements. [/quote]I suspect one of the other italian Class D companies designed it like Powersoft.

What did you end up getting?

Bill is right the power will be roughly similar (although a distorted signal will push more power than a clean one. The biggest issue is noise here. If your gain pot is at the start of the pre-amp, having it too low will mean amplifying noise later in the signal chain. A lot of bass amps are not designed with a low noise figure as the main design criteria so higher gain is usually better, My advice, have the Volume or master control lowish, set the gain for the sound you like then turn up the master/volume for what you need. Alternatively turn up the gain until it starts to distort then back it off a bit. Then turn up the master/volume to taste.

[quote name='kev b' timestamp='1499036735' post='3328789'] Its not only class D amps that play up, my band plays a couple of venues where there is a issue with the power supply. The ancient keyboards (4) use 9volt phone charger type power supplies and I use my 1970s HH solid state head for bass. At various points during the set my bass will sound horribly distorted but one keyboard in particular will fail altogether, just producing a clicking noise. We put this down to a voltage drop caused by the long extension leads and demand from the fryers and other equipment in the venue, the cure is not easy to find. I dont look forward to playing one of these gigs as our sound is always compromised, the place was rewired last year but we use the same setup elsewhere and never have a problem. [/quote]If the voltage goes down so does your headroom and distortion will start earlier. Incidentally I have two HH bass amps and no valve amp watt is equal to an HH watt (tin hat on).