Chienmortbb

I lovingly strike my transistors whenever I think of the problems with valves.

I would have thought the bass would be fine. I cannot see how adding a second cab would lose bass, quite the opposite. The overall effect of adding a second identical cab stacked vertically is close to 6 db overall and a bit more for the low end.

Opened both fine. Thank you for that. Will there be a cutting list?

Vintage pots will be carbon track as said before. They often go noisy before the crap out completely. The US made basses and guitars were fitted with CTS pots as they were the cheapest US made pots at the time. So you have a number of options. 1. Try to get the current pot repaired. Do you have a picture of it from the front and back? Sometimes you can readjust the wiper contacts to avoid bad portions of the track. I will be happy to look at it for you, but as I am in hospital at the moment I cannot promise when it would be done. 2. Fit a new pot. If you are keeping the bass go conductive plastic. Be aware that there are two sizes of pot spindle. 6mm or 1/4". Now 1/4" is only 6.35 mm but that 0.35mm makes all the difference. Make sure you get the right one. Also some are straight and some are splined. If the knob is wobbly that will be s bigger no no than a mom original pot. 3. Spray inside with Deoxit. It is expensive for just one pot but often works.

Those are Wilkinsons new range. I called JHS about those as, like many of the new range, they are described as Active. Still waiting for a response after 4 weeks. However on eBay, Vanson say they are passive not active with a DC resistance of 12.5K, far too high for EMG type active pickup. http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=111820804932&category=33034&pm=1&ds=0&t=1455457431971 Do you have a multimeter?

[quote name='tauzero' timestamp='1446813499' post='2902535'] I only have one in my signal chain at a time but have quite a few around Zoom B3 Zoom G3 Zoom MS-60B Korg AX3000B Korg AX1500G Two or three Tanglewood tuners (I like these but they're obsolete now) Three or four cheapo tuners so I can stick one in every case One clip-on, good for use with the Variax guitar but an epic fail on the headless Sei [/quote]Tauzero are we the only AX3000B owners on Basschat?

I suspect the protection circuits on the D800's 700W IcePower module would kick In way before any damage to the amp or cabs.

I was a guitard and changed to bass. Played a few different 4s squire, Westone, then went to a Washburn 5. It wasn't a dear one ( Taurus 5) but it was neck through. It played like a dream out of the box but I never quite got a 5. I sold it and bought an Aerodyne Jass and was at home. I think a Washburn Taurus 4 would have done just as well though. It was not the "thumb over the neck" thing with me as I always have my thumb in the right position. Maybe I was too old to change. Oh and about 5 & 6 strings looking cool, a 5 looks cool but if I want a cool 6 it's a Strat, Tele or Les Paul. Thinking about it my Aerodyne looks likes Strat so maybe I am a Guitard at heart!

I am in Dorset so Andy would probably be closer to be honest and far better than me. Why is the aerodyne so special? Firstly the looks. They are all stunning. All have very thin linden bodies withe the trademark cream binding. The necks are similar to a modern jazz and play. Beautifully. The whole bass is light although a little neck heavy with this whopping great machine heads. I have some lighter Gotohs for mine that will be fitted once I leave hospital. I would love another one of theses as it is the only bass that blew me away with its looks and lived up to it when played. They really are a talking point though. The final thing is they sound great acoustically that has to be a good thing.

If you have the problem soldering to the thick metal outer earth on those neutriks, rub then down with a little sandpaper or wet n dry. They will solder much easier.. Neutrik are the best Jack plugs, switchcraft are a little variable and most others are pants. Deltron used to make great Jacks but they have stopped. Beware of people selling Rean as Neutrik. They are part of the group but are made down to a lower price point. For example Nuetrik Jack sockets are spec'd for 10,000 insertions whereas Rean are only 1000.

The term dead spot is misleading. It is more a position on the fret board that does it happen on fretless bassedhas cnoticeabley less sustain than other positions including the fret/note either side. One thought has just occurred to me, is a fretless any different?

You have inspired me Andy. I am only doing a out build but I might post it on here. Or I might send it to you for finishing! I found out that the bridge you used is a Sung Il BB404. Unfortunately Axesrus are discontinuing Wilkinson and Sung il and only have the chrome ones left in stock. One more question which Di Marzio PUPs did you use?

[quote name='Jabba_the_gut' timestamp='1454148709' post='2966884'] Cheers for the comments. I've got some bits of hardware that I've accumulated along the way that I'll use - most of it is cheap stuff bought direct from China on eBay I the past. I am still thinking of making a piezo bridge for one of these basses hence one of them does not have any holes drilled on the plate for controls, just a jack socket. I've also got my hands on a bit more scrap wood that might be good, including what looks like another block of teak. [/quote] Hardware from China is a lottery so have you found any gems.

Have you done solid colours with this method Andy and if so, what did you use? Would you use a primer or just a sanding sealer?

The A and B designations mean nothing. Or at least they do depending on the brand or country of origin. British Standards are A for Linear B for Logarithmic. US standards are the opposite A for log and B for linear. Some ( many ) think A is for Audio. It is not. So if you get a bourns, CTS or Alpha pot it will be A log B Lin, If you get an OMEG pot A is Lin B is Log.

[quote name='petetexas' timestamp='1416847864' post='2614238'] Hi Guys, Just found a company who supply black painted speaker grills , Only one size 600 x 520, but supply loads of other cabinet , and electronic bits. ESR Electronic Components Ltd Station Road, Cullercoats, Tyne & Wear NE30 4PQ Have a look at their web site.; Pete [/quote]I have used ESR many times and they are good. There are two things to look out for; All prices exclude VAT and carriage. They can substitute parts between purchases. I bought some quality Cliff Jack sockets from them and the next time the same part numbers were Amphenol. Unfortunately those were not if the same quality (although still good value).

Andy that is a thing of beauty. What bridge and machine heads did you use on it?

[quote name='LewisK1975' timestamp='1453903609' post='2964021'] Yup - found this out when I got my PUMA 500 and used it with the Super compacts - PUMA's 'Hi' eq control is centred at 8Khz, Supercompacts range ends around 4Khz = treble control pretty useless... [/quote]oops sorry

[quote name='IanA' timestamp='1452839665' post='2953902'] Absolutely ChrisB I had totally overlooked those things and have now come to my senses... clearly the op needs to learn how to use his amp correctly or even replace his amp altogether for one that is a little more flat response/honest/puts out what you put in/high efficiency/ louder than any other amp for the size and weight, and most importantly can push those very special custom made, top secret, state of the art drivers with unbelievably impressive Xmax and dispersion performance to their limit, it is inconceivable that someone would find a B*******d product not to taste! [/quote]As an Electronics Engineer, I am a firm believer that you should only claim what you can measure although Chis is not alone in his assertions. However surely such a sarcastic, narky, character assassination is unwarranted.

Looks fantastic. I wood love to do a build like this. Are you doing your own hardware?

It looks like the Ultimate Compound is a Burnishing Cream and it gets really good reviews for cars. The wax also gets good reviews, expensive but when I see your results, it is worth it. Can also use the excess on the Car 😎

Andy is this the polish? http://www.meguiars.co.uk/shop/ultra-finishing-polish-237ml

Ok I have had another look and it looks like you gave a 2 PUP bass with separate VT controls for each PUP. I cannot see any wiring to the switch closest to the Jack socket but I would guess the other switch is a PUP selector, probably Neck, Neck/Bridge, Bridge. That leads me to suspect the the pre-amp is just that. A simple pre amp. There also appears to be a switch built into the preamp. This may have some tone presets or more likely is a stepped gain control. Hope that helps.

Can't identify the current unit but can you tell me what controls you have at the moment?

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1453755731' post='2962534'] For the punchy sound you're looking for I'd suggest 500, 500, 250. 500 on the volume gives more clank. The value of the resistance on the tone pot doesn't change the tone. What a high resistance tone pot will do is give you 50% of the rotation won't do much. On the value of the capacitor; I once worked on a bass and connected 2 capacitors with a switch. The values were significantly different, but the tone difference between them was minimal. [/quote]The passive circuits are a variable low pass filter and if you change anything in it, you will change the tone.